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  • #61
    You definatly need to replace that flexable piping you have.... I bet it blows up like a balloon under boost and would be supprised it doesnt pop. and i would also hook the BOV to a vac line on the engine. you need vac and boost. the FMU and WG only need the boost.

    as for the check valve on the trans. i have nothing different then stock you shouldn't have any problems w/o the valve. ive been running mine for about 1-2 years that way and nothing feels funny with my trans. my cars idles a little over 1000 rpms. keep in mind you car has to suck harder to get air threw all that piping so it will idle up a little to get the extra suction.

    boost through your MAF just like you are doing. that is how everyone does it. your MAP will max out when you make pos. pressure (boost) hence the reason its a 1 bar (14.5 HG's to 0 HG's. 2 bar=14.5hg to 14.5psi and our cars cannot run a 2 bar) so you need your maf to do your fuel adjustments from there. also if you suck threw your maf and have a BOV that does not recurculate you will have stalling issues when your bov opens. your doing it right there. I would also replace the maf-to-TB pipe with a 3" pipe. your slowing the velocity of that air coming in by reducing it after the maf. here is mine again...



    S
    Last edited by RedZMonte; 07-27-2007, 07:55 PM.
    Shane "RedZMonte"
    2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
    1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
    -Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
    2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
    1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
    1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
    1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
    1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)

    Comment


    • #62
      OK just took it for another drive. Here is what I came up with. The car drives its self,basically sicking to 1500 rpm but I am thinking its the tranny check valve. Can some one let me know what way it is supposed to be. Next when driving around I did notice that I do not get a reading from the a/f. It bounces around when driving around. I will check my connection at the A/F at the 02 sensor and make sure its connected tight. Next I will move the bov to vacuum. I forgot you said to move it to the plenum. What do you guyes think the problem is with my idle.


      WWW.OverKillEngineeringMotorsports.com

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      • #63
        Originally posted by RedZMonte View Post
        You definatly need to replace that flexable piping you have.... I bet it blows up like a balloon under boost and would be supprised it doesnt pop. and i would also hook the BOV to a vac line on the engine. you need vac and boost. the FMU and WG only need the boost.

        as for the check valve on the trans. i have nothing different then stock you shouldn't have any problems w/o the valve. ive been running mine for about 1-2 years that way and nothing feels funny with my trans. my cars idles a little over 1000 rpms. keep in mind you car has to suck harder to get air threw all that piping so it will idle up a little to get the extra suction.

        boost through your MAF just like you are doing. that is how everyone does it. your MAP will max out when you make pos. pressure (boost) so you need your maf to do your fuel adjustments from there. also if you suck threw your maf and have a BOV that does not recurculate you will have stalling issues. your doing it right there. I would also replace the maf-to-TB pipe with a 3" pipe. your slowing the velocity of that air coming in by reducing it after the maf. here is mine again...


        S
        Your MAF sees boost? I have MAP, but I thought MAF had to see vacuum (front of the turbo).

        Go to post #8...
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        • #64
          My maf is the last thing before the Tb. I will have the piping replaced next week.


          WWW.OverKillEngineeringMotorsports.com

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          • #65
            What do you guyes think the problem is with my idle.
            My guess is vac leak.
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            • #66
              There is no MAP on the 94+. There is just a vacuum port for the trans and the fuel pressure regulator.


              WWW.OverKillEngineeringMotorsports.com

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              • #67
                A vac leak. Well that has to be on the turbo becuase I know the motor has no leaks. Also why would my vac be perfect steady when I get it to finaly come down


                WWW.OverKillEngineeringMotorsports.com

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                • #68
                  your idle could be a couple of things.. TPS or like a said because of the new setup it has to suck harder threw the piping. mine idles at about 1200 (give or take). as long as you idle smooth i would wory about other things first. as for the check vavle on your trans if you are going to run one, blow into it with your mouth it should only blow one way. put that side on the vaccume line and the other to the tranny. you want the vaccume to suck it open but close when your boosting. If that makes sence.

                  Im a TARD, i forgot you don't have a MAP (1991-93 have map, 1994-95 use maf and 1996-7 use both). MAF doesn't read vaccume it reads air flow. its more accurate the closer to the engine it is. weather its reading air going into the motor or air going into the turbo you are measuring the ammount of air passing threw the MAF.
                  Shane "RedZMonte"
                  2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
                  1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
                  -Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
                  2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
                  1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
                  1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
                  1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
                  1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)

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                  • #69
                    OK here is what I will do. I will tap those holes just for the W/G and FMU. Then I will run the BOV to the plenum. RIght so far. Ok then I will check the a/f gauge and make sure the wire is hooked up. THen I will take the check valve off the tranny. Anything else I should Do. I am going to have the I/C hooked up next friday but I would like to have it running good before I drop it off. If this is not possiable becuase the flex hose well then I will jsut have to live with that for a couple days. Please let me know if you think of any other problems or need anything else from me. Shane Is there any way I can grab your number though a PM man. I would really like to talk to you for a couple minutes.


                    WWW.OverKillEngineeringMotorsports.com

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                    • #70
                      The a/f gauge is always going to bounce around. Only under large loads will it start to show a consistent reading. It bounces around because that's what narrowband sensors do when you subject them to stoichiometric a/f ratios.

                      I have run the MAF both before and after the turbo. After the turbo and BOV works 100% better.

                      Tim
                      1995 Z34 - T04E "60" trim, 42.5 lb/hr injectors, AEM WBO2, FFP UD&DB, 3" exhaust, 2800 stall, shift kit, tranny cooler, Powerslot, Hawk HPS, rear disc conversion, KYB, Eibach, HMS F&R STB, Fittipaldi Force 18" wheels, big stereo, lots more coming eventually...
                      325 whp 350 lb-ft

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                      • #71
                        I do have a few comments.

                        It looks good overall.

                        Please get an air filter. That helps dramatically. Flex tubing here is not a big deal.
                        The flex tubing on the intake (as mentioned earlier) will cause problems.
                        The PCV vent should not be between the MAF and TB. Putting it there will cause a HUGE boost leak and pressurization of your crankcase under boost (both bad things). If you want to run it to the intake piping, put it before the turbo.

                        Tim
                        1995 Z34 - T04E "60" trim, 42.5 lb/hr injectors, AEM WBO2, FFP UD&DB, 3" exhaust, 2800 stall, shift kit, tranny cooler, Powerslot, Hawk HPS, rear disc conversion, KYB, Eibach, HMS F&R STB, Fittipaldi Force 18" wheels, big stereo, lots more coming eventually...
                        325 whp 350 lb-ft

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                        • #72
                          gotcha. Thanks guys


                          WWW.OverKillEngineeringMotorsports.com

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                          • #73
                            im building a intake prob. this week for mine and im adding the AITS and running a hose to my PCV as well. it smokes a little (sometimes more then other) im sure the PCV being hooked up should help

                            S
                            Shane "RedZMonte"
                            2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
                            1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
                            -Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
                            2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
                            1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
                            1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
                            1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
                            1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              Oh, So put the hose that goes from both crankcases and then to the intake on the side of the filter for the turbo. Or just run breathers?


                              WWW.OverKillEngineeringMotorsports.com

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                              • #75
                                Originally posted by RedZMonte View Post
                                im building a intake prob. this week for mine and im adding the AITS and running a hose to my PCV as well. it smokes a little (sometimes more then other) im sure the PCV being hooked up should help

                                S
                                Yep. A catch can is a the best alternative in my honest opinion.
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