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Porting suggestions/pics for 3x00 heads

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  • #61
    Originally posted by whitelightnin04MC View Post
    The dremel was much better for me because there wasn't a bulky trigger that I had to hold down. With the dremel, I just set the rpm and went to work.
    I just use an air regulator to drop the RPM of the die grinder. That way, I can just hold the trigger all the way down rather than trying to feather it.

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    • #62
      1 5/8" worked perfect.. although beating the ends into a D shape wasn't the most fun i've ever had.. that's why i used round ports on the last set i built.
      Past Builds;
      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
      Current Project;
      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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      • #63
        Originally posted by Superdave View Post
        1 5/8" worked perfect.. although beating the ends into a D shape wasn't the most fun i've ever had.. that's why i used round ports on the last set i built.
        Sounds like when I beat a 2.5" pipe to fit my t3 turbo flange. I tacked it, beat it, tacked it, beat it etc etc. Came out nice, though.

        Look at the shiney ...






        3400-95-modified thanks for the flapper suggestion! I used 80, 120, then a cotton buffing wheel. Probably can skip the 80 on the rest because the stone does a nice job.

        I also think I am going to try and use a dowel, dill a hole in the end, and glue a Dremmel bit in it, so I can put in a drill and get the entire runner length as nice as I can.
        Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 09-25-2007, 05:56 PM.
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        • #64
          Had a few minutes today after moving 2 apartments of furniture for family members. I'm satisfied with the job so far...

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          • #65
            Originally posted by ikessky View Post
            I just use an air regulator to drop the RPM of the die grinder. That way, I can just hold the trigger all the way down rather than trying to feather it.
            I didn't need to drop the RPM. My problem was that, with the big bulky trigger, you still had to hold it down all the time and that kind of limited how I could hold the grinder. With the dremel, I just set the speed switch and went to town.

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            • #66
              Completely finished the first runner, how do you like?







              The dowel worked great. Drilled a hole in the end of it and stuck a spherical stone in there. Then cut a slot in the end and wrapped a strip of sand paper to make a paper drum/flapper, then cotton buffed it.
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              • #67
                Sure is shiny! I can see a casting seam though still in the runner! hehe.
                sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                Original L82 Longblock
                with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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                • #68
                  smoother than mine... Then again I'm not planning on boosting

                  Got Lope?
                  3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                  Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                  Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                  12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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                  • #69
                    Issac: Fangu! I was going to smooth the casting marks too, but the block will be here Thursday and I'm trying to make the Southern V6 Clash in March (N/A). I think they will be just fine .

                    Modified: I will be N/A and posing dyno results before returning the boost. 11:1 compression is a little much for a turbo, so until I get the 3400 pistons I'm working on, this will be all motor.
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                    • #70
                      I wouldn't polish it leading from the lower to the head.
                      Ben
                      60DegreeV6.com
                      WOT-Tech.com

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by SappySE107 View Post
                        I wouldn't polish it leading from the lower to the head.
                        Nope, as I stated earlier I will polish it to the injectors.

                        80 grit rough enough after?
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                        • #72
                          I use 120 so yeah, 80 is perfectly fine.
                          Ben
                          60DegreeV6.com
                          WOT-Tech.com

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                          • #73
                            Originally posted by SappySE107 View Post
                            I use 120 so yeah, 80 is perfectly fine.
                            Actually I was using 120 to finish the runners, then buffing them with a cotton buffer and red compound to get the mirror finish. Perfect, I'll just leave them at 120. I thought 120 would be a little too smooth to prevent fuel coagulation.
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                            • #74
                              Yeah you'll be fine. I wouldn't worry about the casting seam too much. In my 97 3400 plenum it was visible but didn't stick out or feel like a bump to the touch so I left it alone. The 94 3100 casting was waaay rougher with irregular square notches on the top round ports (???) and the cast was super rough. The 97 3400 was very smooth inside, no rough sand feel at all.
                              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                              Original L82 Longblock
                              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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                              • #75
                                Please post pics as soon as you have made some progess....I am interested in doing a set of 3500 heads for boost as well.............

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