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262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics

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  • TGP37
    replied
    Originally posted by ericjon262 View Post
    that looks like it's probably the best idea, I would install a small vent on the other valve cover though, so it pulls in fresh air to "clean" the oil.
    Or do both and use a restriction. Allows for more vacuum AND bleeds in fresh air.

    Vacuum will do more to keep the oil clean versus fresh air feed. Vacuum reduces blow-by through stronger ring sealing where fresh air feed just dilutes it. Besides, to get the fresh air in the crank case there must be a negative pressure gradient present anyways.



    I gotta say Nick-G, I was thinking up the same set up the last few days. Engine vacuum draws the crank fumes at idle, both draw at part load and the exhaust takes over the draw in boost. Only thing is the check valves need to withstand oil/gas.


    Can't a dry sump oil pump also act as crank case ventilation? So says my buddy from across the office.
    Last edited by TGP37; 04-25-2013, 10:45 AM.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    Originally posted by caffeine View Post
    If you're running a stock cam in the mock-up motor, it could change the tune a lot. Speaking from personal experience.
    well, I could throw the regrind I have in it, but yeah, it's a stock cam.

    Leave a comment:


  • caffeine
    replied
    If you're running a stock cam in the mock-up motor, it could change the tune a lot. Speaking from personal experience.

    Leave a comment:


  • ericjon262
    replied
    so I'm thinking I might run the mock up motor for the first start, and as kind of a "shake down" before I go full bore with the built motor, esp since my machinist is taking 50 forevers with the machine work... it should help me get a base tune nailed down though.

    Thoughts?

    Leave a comment:


  • ericjon262
    replied
    Originally posted by Nick-G View Post
    Here is how I am doing my pcv system. http://www.660motorsports.com/galler...ms-pcv-system/

    Should basically work like stock until you hit boost then opens up to the turbo inlet. Since it only uses the turbo inlet under boost it will be working when the turbo will be pulling the most suction.
    that looks like it's probably the best idea, I would install a small vent on the other valve cover though, so it pulls in fresh air to "clean" the oil.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nick-G
    replied
    Originally posted by The_Raven View Post
    Why use a vacuum pump?

    On every turbo conversion I've done, I've had the crankcase connect to the inlet of the turbo, just like OEM turbo cars and never had an issue.
    Originally posted by ericjon262 View Post
    there's not as strong of a vacuum signal at the inlet of the turbo, I may do that though, just weighing my options.
    Here is how I am doing my pcv system. http://www.660motorsports.com/galler...ms-pcv-system/

    Should basically work like stock until you hit boost then opens up to the turbo inlet. Since it only uses the turbo inlet under boost it will be working when the turbo will be pulling the most suction.

    Leave a comment:


  • ericjon262
    replied
    Stopped raining long enough for me to get a little bit of work done on the downpipe.



    routing wise, the downpipe is done. I'm going to add a flex pipe in the straight section right before the muffler, and a V band at the muffler inlet.

    to finish the downpipe, I still need to:
    1. fully weld each seam(tacked now)
    2. weld in the o2 sensor bungs
    3. obtain and weld in the flex pipe
    4. integrate the wastegate dump.


    I also have everything to finish the fuel system now, except for the TCE rail fittings, and the line itself.

    Leave a comment:


  • ericjon262
    replied
    I got a bunch of parts in today, including some of the drain fittings for the turbo...



    Damn they're huge! lol...

    I also got a little bit more work on the downpipe done but it keeps raining outside where the car is, so progress has been slow...

    Leave a comment:


  • ericjon262
    replied
    Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
    Cool deal, isn't it gratifying to see the dash light up?
    very, among other things, I was having problems with the CEL circuit before the swap, I just figured anything that could be causing the problem would be replaced during the swap... I about shit my pants when it wasn't working right this time...

    Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
    Can't wait to see your Fiero run, boost up.
    you can't wait??? lol!

    Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
    You have any certain songs you want to burn for your first rock out spirited drive?
    probably either some Queens of the Stone Age, or some older Alice in Chains, maybe a little Faith no More. maybe I'll just turn the radio on and what's on is on...

    Leave a comment:


  • TGP37
    replied
    Cool deal, isn't it gratifying to see the dash light up?

    One thing I do different is I don't twist the wires together. I push the tips together so the copper inter-twines with each other. It provides space for the solder to fill and lock them together real well. It also reduces the size of the soldered joint dramatically and looks real professional. In some cases the soldered joint is smaller then the wires insulation. Barely larger then the copper itself. I was kind of amazed solder could hold so well in such a way.

    Don't mind my ramblings, just another enthusiast passing on mistakes I made and tips I learned. Interestingly, I have been "tightening" up the wiring in my turbo for the last few days. I had a LOT of unneeded wire from the auto trans being pulled out for a manual. I couldn't believe how much cleaner it looks with the extras gone.


    Another issue I had that puzzled me after the first wiring run, fuses. It seems they can become loose if removed often and will wiggle slightly. Which, when driving, can cause intermittent breaks in the circuit. That was a headache to diagnose.

    Can't wait to see your Fiero run, boost up.

    You have any certain songs you want to burn for your first rock out spirited drive?

    Leave a comment:


  • ericjon262
    replied
    and fixed.

    looked back over the pinouts, and I was missing a second IGN + in pin 24 on the clear connector.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    ok, more info, I made a jumper, pulled the clear PCM connector, and grounded pin 5, CEL comes on. bad PCM? maybe missing a ground? according to GMtuners pinout, I've got all the grounds in place and accounted for.

    OBD2 PCM's show a CEL with the engine off too right?

    Leave a comment:


  • ericjon262
    replied
    I was referring to electrical power.

    ok, so far I've only had a few little speedbumps. but now, I've got a good one, key on engine off, I don't have a CEL, and the charge failure light doesn't stay on either.

    grounding pin C on the C203 gets a bright CEL, so the bulb is good, that means the issue is somewhere between the C203 and the PCM. I'll have it fixed tonight.

    Edit:

    I just pulled the harness to double check that it is pinned correctly, and guess what, everything is correct... hmmm ???
    Last edited by ericjon262; 04-23-2013, 09:03 PM.

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  • Guest
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by ericjon262 View Post
    !!!!


    Houston, we have POWER!
    Its running?

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    !!!!


    Houston, we have POWER!

    so far, everything is looking good, the harness is installed, the PCM is communicating with my tuner, and the junkyard SPL. headlight motors work!

    Leave a comment:

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