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262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics
I know this is going to sound very elementary, but have you tried running without a thermostat to see if anything changes?
no, and running without one can make problems worse, it causes pressure in the engine block and heads to be lowered, therefore the coolant is closer to saturation/boiling, and may locally boil, causing steam pockets and an even hotter engine. I am going to pull the thermostat and test it though.
I am having problems again with my powrtuner... this thing is starting to bug me enough to actively consider going obd1... start a datalog, and it doesn't log anything, or it logs some data, and not all of it.... why? I don't know, the thing is finickier than my ex...
a/f ratio was just me being stupid... not much to report, the car has run on an L67 bin file, but things get real weird after it's warmed up. I think I may have found a better starter file to work with anyways though. I'll post results of the new file soon. the car runs pretty good, but for some reason keeps overheating. I've swapped thermostats, and seen no real change in performance, even though the original was stuck real bad. the cooling tubes going under the car are hot on the discharge side, and cold on the suction side. I'm not sure how much of a temperature drop to expect across the radiator, but it seems too extreme for there to be significant flow through the radiator. I've tried bleeding the system several times, on both sides of the block and seen no real improvement. I'm starting to wonder if something is clogging a tube somewhere.
on another note, the car likes to blow the maf coupling at about 10 PSI...
I've noticed something odd... my wideband o2 is bouncing all over, while the narrow band seems to be almost static showing 14.7... it's not throwing a CEL, but it doesn't seem to track with what I was expecting to see. it's also really weird to me that the a/f goes up to 14.7 without ever going down, just up up up up stop @ 14.7 something doesn't seem right, any ideas?
I also think the a/d input on the DHP might not be working, it shows a reletively static voltage, but the gauge shows quite a bit of swing.
I attached the log, and bin file used.I swapped out the sensor, and it acted normal, then after a short amount of runtime, it went back to this...
drove it today, I found it desperately needs 3 things:
1. tune, obviously
2. alignment, at 55mph or so, the car is everywhere.
3. headlights. mine suck, bad,
the combination of the two makes for a terrifying drive at night. not only can you not see where your going, but you don't know where your going either!
turns out, my thermostat was FUBAR'd. the disc wouldn't come off it's seat at all. replaced it and put on a new thermostat housing with a bleed valve on it as well. seems to be working much better.
for some reason. I'm not getting coolant flow through the engine. it's very slowly coming up to operating temp, and then overheating. not really sure why. I've bled the crap out of it, and it didn't really help. I can tell I'm not getting good flow because the coolant tube going under the car aren't getting hot, nor is the radiator. I'm gonna replace the thermostat and see if that helps.
i've seen some custom OS work done with some of the LS1 PCMs, but not much beyond that.
if you can understand Motorola 68000 assembly enough to determine upload/download routines and how the code interacts with the values stored within the calibration(you know, the bare minimum necessary to setup a tuning package), you can make all of the OS changes you can fit into the PROM. in essence, any of the tuning companies COULD offer custom OS options for any application if they didn't copy upload/download routines off of a Tech2 or have an insider leak the calibration location listings(I do have evidence of certain companies doing one or both), then all they really need to do is pick/choose what to allow the end-user to change within their own PC application.
Has anyone really done much with code editing on the OBD2 ECUs yet? If so maybe ask if the original ECU code could be modified to insert the 2Bar map sensor. I think that would be the "cleanest" way to do it but then again I am not good at coding at all. Robert Sarr's work is the only reason I have been able to continue on with the OBD1.5 system I've got going into my truck.
firing order should be pretty easy to fix. my car is obd2. I don't feel like re-wiring it again. I'm gonna continue to play with this for a spell, and if it doesn't work, I'll probably go to robetissar's $A1.
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Firing order is easy to deal with. You just need to pair the correct cylinders (ignition), or connect the injectors accordingly.
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