LX9 RWD Swap - timing cover and pump specifics

[nonhog]

No new news I'm afraid. I haven't done much to the sunbeam since that time. I had to move my business (where I was working on the car) so all the parts are in boxes in storage and the car is under a cover at the side of the house.

I have started working on it again now though.

Well hang in there, I get it. Took me 6 years to get a V8 Volvo swap done and driving. Still not going very far on drives. Working the bugs out.
Yet I am still considering a V6 Volvo swap-must be a glutton for punishment.

[shapeshaver]

I know its old but its a good thread. Still not sure if I will pull the trigger on a LX9 swap but it still interests me.
Shapeshaver! any news?

No new news I'm afraid. I haven't done much to the sunbeam since that time. I had to move my business (where I was working on the car) so all the parts are in boxes in storage and the car is under a cover at the side of the house.

I have started working on it again now though.

[nonhog]

I know its old but its a good thread. Still not sure if I will pull the trigger on a LX9 swap but it still interests me.
Shapeshaver! any news?

I know. There is no tension on the belt if I did that.
Raising the tensioner creates clearance issues with the heater hose. So these are the best two layouts possible, without re-working everything.

[1988GTU]

There's no reason that the alternator has to go there, no, it just fit there very well, and keeps the entire package tight. The driver side head being the one that is father back allows the alternator to sit in that open space.

The idler is there to have the belt clear the water pump. If the belt cleared it without, there would be no idler. There's no belt clearance issues with how the belt is routed now, hence why it's routed the way it is. I've fabricated every mount so parts are placed where I want them to be.

I was only showing what I came up with since I was asked long ago how I did it, or would end up doing it previously in this thread.

I honestly just brain farted over the positioning of the left side pulley system lol.

Too bad the tensioner couldnt be rotated counterclockwise about 2.75" to make the idler history on the alternate design.

It's simple, but lacks the spring loaded tensioner, which is a self imposed requirement.

[caffeine]

I prefer this layout. Simple, and works well.

My firebird uses a very similar layout with a power steering pump added below the alternator.

There's no reason that the alternator has to go there, no, it just fit there very well, and keeps the entire package tight. The driver side head being the one that is father back allows the alternator to sit in that open space.

The idler is there to have the belt clear the water pump. If the belt cleared it without, there would be no idler. There's no belt clearance issues with how the belt is routed now, hence why it's routed the way it is. I've fabricated every mount so parts are placed where I want them to be.

I was only showing what I came up with since I was asked long ago how I did it, or would end up doing it previously in this thread.

[Ghosteh]

There's no reason that the alternator has to go on that side, is there? Is there enough slack in the harness to move it?
I think I'd like mine on the opposite side just to give the steering linkage more room.

[1988GTU]

I'd opt for the alternate. If you put the belt on the underside of the idler that is next to the alternator, does it clear the w-pump? If it doesn't, a smaller dia idler pulley is available that can create clearance.

What did you do for belt routing on this project you mentioned? I have an LX9 that I want to put in an Opel which also has manual steering, so the only accessory would be the alternator.

I haven't got to that project yet, but it's getting closer to the top of the list.

Well, I'm getting to that project.

I have two different belt routing arrangements, depending on where I place the dowel for the tensioner (modified to be removable).

This is how I believe I'm going to route the belt:


This is the alternate:


I had to use an idler, but could have either used a (much) larger pulley on the tensioner (or alternator) or moved the alternator up, or some combination of both. I already had the alternator mount welded up solid by then, so I chose to go with the idler pulley.

[shapeshaver]

Yep, I already have a new one. Just have to TIG up the hole.

[caffeine]

LX9 RWD Swap - timing cover and pump specifics

Did you order a matching timing cover as well? You need one from an 87-88 Fiero to work with a CW pump.

[shapeshaver]

Well , I just ordered a CW Fiero pump. I don't anticipate having any accessories in the future so I had a moment of clarity and "chose simple". Now on to the MANY other issues involved with this swap...

[Canyonero]

With my original belt routing, I had one on there. I didn't use one the second time around just to clean up the look of the engine.

you can see how it looked with the 3.4 brackets here:


I had it mounted in the original A/C compressor spot with a custom bracket. I think it was a stock 3.4 tensioner but i had so many parts mixed around that i'm not 100% sure.


Once everything is in place, measure it with string and remember to subtract a little for the swing of the tensioner. Be prepared to make a few trips to the parts store.

I'd thought I tried the F-Body brackets without an AC compressor and the tensioner was ineffective. I got an A/C delete kit that put an idler pulley in place of the compressor and ran that for a while.

As for measuring, if you have an old belt, my vice-grip trick worked really well. Puts the belt under proper tension, and the vice-grips leave nice witness marks to measure off of. I got mine right on the first try.