LX9 RWD Swap - timing cover and pump specifics

[Superdave]

Dave, did you look for a spring loaded tensioner that would work before making your post mounted Idler? Once I have all my pulleys in place, where do I find a serpentine belt that is just the right length?

With my original belt routing, I had one on there. I didn't use one the second time around just to clean up the look of the engine.

you can see how it looked with the 3.4 brackets here:


I had it mounted in the original A/C compressor spot with a custom bracket. I think it was a stock 3.4 tensioner but i had so many parts mixed around that i'm not 100% sure.


Once everything is in place, measure it with string and remember to subtract a little for the swing of the tensioner. Be prepared to make a few trips to the parts store.

[Canyonero]

Just got the 4-cyl and 4-speed out of my Opel. I was intending to replace the clutch, reseal the engine, and convert to EFI - but now I'm exploring the possibility of stuffing my LX9 and T5 in there instead. This wagon weighs 1900lbs.

[caffeine]

I'm sorry if it seems i'm over clarifying this issue, but, referring to this image that MARS posted of the no-idler setup, you are saying it will work just fine with that amount of WP contact even at 7K RPM with no squealing at normal belt tensions? If so, that would work really nice in my Sunbeam!

Correct

[shapeshaver]

Go to the Dayco online catalog and use their "Dimensional Lookup" for a belt and part number.

http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-catalog

Belts usually have the length as part of the part number, I took a longer belt that I had laying around, and pinched it down with a set of long nosed vice grips. I put the belt under tension and marked it where i liked it, then measured the length.

Awesome, thanks you guys! That'll simplify things a lot!

[shapeshaver]

Yes the setup has been tried up to 7k rpm with no cooling issues and no apparent slipping. I also use a very similar setup with about the same amount of contact on my Firebird; I've driven with that belt setup for 15,000 kms.

I'm sorry if it seems i'm over clarifying this issue, but, referring to this image that MARS posted of the no-idler setup, you are saying it will work just fine with that amount of WP contact even at 7K RPM with no squealing at normal belt tensions? If so, that would work really nice in my Sunbeam!

[45es]

Once I have all my pulleys in place, where do I find a serpentine belt that is just the right length?

Go to the Dayco online catalog and use their "Dimensional Lookup" for a belt and part number.

http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-catalog

[caffeine]

How much is "necessary" then? Have you tried your no-idler setup at 6K+ rpm to see if it slips? I would love to not have to use an idler if it works without one. I just question the amount of resistance the water pump will have when turning high RPMs.

Yes the setup has been tried up to 7k rpm with no cooling issues and no apparent slipping. I also use a very similar setup with about the same amount of contact on my Firebird; I've driven with that belt setup for 15,000 kms.

On my friends truck we had a custom accessory setup for a supercharger and with the charger removed there was so little belt contact on the water pump that the belt didn't even change direction lol. No overheating problems with that one either.

[Canyonero]

For an 81.5" belt, I bought a Goodyear 4060815. In my case I was measuring for 3.1L brackets with a Smog pump and AC delete, so there was no OEM part number to look up.

[Canyonero]

Belts usually have the length as part of the part number, I took a longer belt that I had laying around, and pinched it down with a set of long nosed vice grips. I put the belt under tension and marked it where i liked it, then measured the length.

[shapeshaver]

I pulled the Pulleys from a V6 Camaro today finally. I also pulled an alternator from a 3.1L car but didn't like the way it sounded so I didn't walk out with it. I'll just buy a re-manufactured one somewhere. The question is how to incorporate an Idler, or not to. Dave, did you look for a spring loaded tensioner that would work before making your post mounted Idler? Once I have all my pulleys in place, where do I find a serpentine belt that is just the right length?

[shapeshaver]

I've found that only minimal belt contact on the water pump is necessary, but it doesn't hurt to have more either.

How much is "necessary" then? Have you tried your no-idler setup at 6K+ rpm to see if it slips? I would love to not have to use an idler if it works without one. I just question the amount of resistance the water pump will have when turning high RPMs.

[Superdave]

Yep, pulley is on a stud and belt tension was set with the turnbuckle. Not ideal for a car that's daily driven but it worked good for an occasional driver.

I have pics of my original setup too with the 3.4 Fbody brackets, that used a regular tensioner but had those big ugly brackets. It worked great just didn't look so good. lol


Yep, sold the Camaro last year as a roller. Engine was sold and installed in a Fiero.

[shapeshaver]

Caffine, your setup is probably most like what I am going to need to do. I only have an alternator and I need it tucked in close and out of the way of the close confines of my car's sheet metal. Where did you source your pullies and alternator from?

EDIT: Except I'm running a CCW cover and pump. So, I will do something similar to what SuperDave did.

[shapeshaver]

Ah, I think I can see what you did. The idler pulley is stud mounted and the belt tension is achieved by the alternator tensioner. Correct?

So, did you sell your Camaro then?

[shapeshaver]

Is your tensioner spring loaded?