My Official turbo built for my 2000 Monte Carlo

[narutov2]

My Official Turbo build for my 2000 Monte Carlo 3400:

I am starting this project real soon(as in REAL REAL soon, lol I mean unless I am missing something really important important), so I thought I might just do a thread for the as-I-go kind of deal and open suggestions, I will definitely be posting pics as I go(but not tonight)

I am a complete noob fyi, and I am learning a lot thanks to BoostED00GagT(previous turbo owner) and Schmieder(a turboed member that lives like an hour away, I might as well set up camp at his place, lol)

This is not a for sale list by the way so don't ask lol, the prices are just a general idea of what I spend, and they included the shipping prices I paid. there are definitely going to be some misc expenses


Engine:
Got wot-tech sportsman upper with ported opening for tb($80)
wot-tech 3.5 tb adapter($45)
3.5 tb($45)
engine enamel paint($20 for like 3 cans)
brand new older style gm chain($80, thicker than stock)
new dampener($20)
both timing gears($15 included another older style chain, these were used but looked good so didn't buy new gears, and this way I have a back up chain.)
#42 injectors with wiring harness and o-rings($100)
felpro gaskets(about $50+ so far, I got 2 sets of uim gaskets in case I use the plenum spacer, timing chain set, exhaust manifolds, both tb gaskets, thermostat ring) (I really don't wanna tear the engine down more than what I have to)
mms egr delete kit($30)
wot-tech coolant bypass($5)

Tune:
Pretuned by ZZP with turbo mapping, 42lb injectors and rear o2,egr,evap delete($130 for a new pcm tuned for the turbo and my stock pcm tuned)
(I really want a tuner, so let me know if u selling one)


Ignition:
Using zex performance spark plugs(got 12 for $35, so giving them a try)
Taylor 8mm red wires($25)
(I might upgrade to those red coil packs from summit later($30 each))


Transmission:
Stock 4t65e trans
will be changing to dex VI soon(heard it was cooler than dex III, so whatever can make this crappy trans last)
B&M 70268 SuperCooler ($50)


Engine Cooling:
using motorad 180 degree stat ($15)
thinking of using water wetter with anti-freeze(maybe water occasionally, but not too much since it might promote corrosion?)


Turbo/ Turbo Cooling:
oil cooled t3/t4 Garrett turbo 60 series(got a complete kit for $1500 with bov and waste-gate, inter-cooler with pipes, plenum spacers and nicely build header-like manifolds)
got DEI 2"x50' black exhaust wrap($30)
s.s zip tips ($20)
vht 2000 degree black paint (go 3 cans $25), (planning to put paint on turbo pipes, and then wrap and more paint again, any objections?)
feed line is coming from a GlowShift oil filter adapter($30).
and return line is returned in the oil pan where it will be tapped.
using 5-30 oil right now but I heard heavier oil is better for higher oil pressure to feed the turbo better.
Glow shift wideband o2 gauge ($125)
Glow shift boost gauge ($30)
ebay gauge pod($13, going to try molding this with a heat gun and if fail I will go with a pod made for my car, this is the Cheapskate way lol)


Exhaust:
(I think this was most expensive next to the turbo...)
Putting a 3"x8" flex pipe in downpipe to prevent cracking ($25)
Going to make a custom U bend delete to save money, already got the o2 bung (although there isn't a point to it...)
I got a 2.5" magnaflow 12866 5"x14" for resonator ($60)
5' s.s 3" pipe($45)
3" y pipe($25)
four 3" 45 degree with 6" legs($60)
four 3" 90 degree elbows($40)
2 brand new stock mustang 2011 GT 3" mufflers with 4" tips (got them both for $50 shipped so no complaints)

Friends:
other than me(who didn't even know how to use a drill till like about 2 years ago, total beginner), I am hoping for 2 of my friends that worked on cars for years, but have no particular past turbo experience, to help me, i was going to pay them to help depending on how long, I will then decide

[Schmieder]

Since you may be still new to the engine, a few tips. Get some blue or green tape and Always label EVERY wire you disconnect. Get a large cardboard sheet and punch in any bolts you remove and label them. You may even outline the part and punch the bolts in their respective locations. While your at it, mark the socket/wrench size as well on the board by the bolts removed.

Most cars have the 3 or 4 most often used socket wrench sizes. Wrap blue/green tape around the socket for fast ID, saves A LOT of time if you have a lot of sockets.

If you need 1 perma-marker, buy 10. They dissappear when you need them most.

When ever under the car, always wear safety goggles. That little piece of junk in the eye really slows one down.

Manifolds of any type really depend on proper torque, or else you will get a leak of some kind.

You REALLY want to go at least 1° cooler spark plugs. I went 2°'s cooler after I melted the ceramic off of cylinder #6 which caused a bad misfire.....scary!

No matter how easy it is, do not place parts or tools on the engine or frame. If you get into that habit, set aside some time to retrieve the item in a hard to get place.

You can never be TOO organized.

Never touch a sensor, like the O2 finger greases are terrible and cause corrosion. MAF sensor wires are Ultra-Delicate.

During your very first road test, have the money and a company in mind to tow you home just in case.

Spending $20 to get an ALLDATA acct for your car is worth it. You'll get diagrams, graphics, and any info you need to test/service your car. It goes WAY beyond the Haynes Manual. Plus, the electrical diagrams are great when you want to wire in your gauges. Or if you get a short circuit, like me....lol.


Good luck

[narutov2]

Loving the cardboard and tape idea, why didn't I ever think of that?!?! lol I guess I might as well spend the 20 too for the diagrams. thanks for the tips!!!

[Schmieder]

Loving the cardboard and tape idea, why didn't I ever think of that?!?! lol I guess I might as well spend the 20 too for the diagrams. thanks for the tips!!!

ALLDATA has a coupon code online somewhere. Just google it, otherwise it will be more then $20/yr.

Every wire, no matter how strongly you feel you will remember, add a tab of tape and mark it clearly. I pre-cut strips of 3" long so I had easy access to them.

Also, If you remove the pushrods, rockers....be absolutely sure you do not mix them up. Keep the pushrods in the same place AND same orientation (up/down). Get a small box and punch holes for the pushrods. Egg cartons work great for rockers and the bolts. If you are replacing the LIM gasket, you will be removing the pushrods. Just loosen the rockers to remove the pushrods. But be CAREFULL because a pushrod may stick or slip and you do NOT want anything falling into the crankcase via the oil drain routes. Also protect the intake ports with damp rags, leaving a length of the rag hanging out so it doesn't get stuck or slip into the runner/pocket of the heads.

While the engine is apart, check to see if the pushrods are clogged. Get some carb cleaner and blast it through the pushrod center passage. Optional, lube the rockers with break-in oil. Otherwise, pour oil over the rockers and pushrods when you reassmebled. If your really wanting to clean things up, take out your lifters and disassemble them, clean them and reassemble. But like anything else in the valve train, ALWAYS return the items to their original position. Otherwise you risk failure, and these engines are interference engines, meaning the valves would impact the piston should the valve-train system fail.

[narutov2]

Well will be posting pics up sometime soon, only half way done but everything seem so purty right now, so I thought of keeping a small update. I ended up using those spacers, and I am glad I found out what bolts I needed for those. Intercooler is hooked up, and turbo is mounted on the engine with exhaust wrap and spray, just need to weld an entire custom exhaust on it now. I did had to take out my cruise control for this, and my brake/ fuel lines is just hanging there because I needed about an inch or 2 of clearance. My abs may stop working out of nowhere one of these days because it is not even a inch away from the plug and the turbo hot side. Right now running a problem with lx5 throttle body I got, I think I need to change the bracket from the stock tb. I am going to try to at least start the car today hopefully I don't set off a mushroom cloud that can be seen a mile away.

[narutov2]

Well today I started the car, and problems already, that glowshift sandwich adapter seems to be leaking my oil really badly when the car is on, meaning I got the car to START with the turbo today with only the downpipe, and dam did people a mile away hear me.
The turbo ZZP pcm I got from zzp didn't work, but the ZZP 1.0 pcm I got from them still works, so hopefully zzp can exhange a working pcm unless I didn't install the pcm correctly....(but they were both zzp pcms...)

My boost gauge is still reading zero completely and I set the boost controller on really low, but I didn't rev the engine yet. But do not even know if I am starving the vac lines at all. the throttle body is completely working perfectly, the little ball piece on the cable got trimmed down to fit and the bracket got cut off on the bottom. BUT the idle rpm sometimes spike to 3k and then is idling at about 1-1.5k which is scaring me compared to the .7-.9k, unless this is normal., maybe octane boost will help?

I didn't hear the bov go off yet, I had that hooked up on the vac port closest to the alternator on the uim. I was really hoping to at least drive the car down the street but that didn't work out. We will try to start the exhaust anyways on friday since gonna be busy tomorrow.

[narutov2]

here are pics like I promised, sorry not HD quality but will tell my story
This is before time

This is is the wottech sportsman ported painted by me with the spacer and tb(also painted)

This is the intercooler and piping I got to work with, originally made for a n-body (grand am), and We ended up making use of most of it and buying extra to make my own custom for the w-body monte I have

This is the Turbo with wastegate and the exhaust manifolds and downpipe I got to work with. Egr delete was a must with this, and I ended up painting everything with vht high temp paint and then had DEI black exhaust wrap on it, along with a top coat of DEI high temp wrap sealant paint, so hopefully nothing melts under the hood....

This is the new older style timing chain and dampener, with good condition used gears, compared to the stock chain, this is definitely better and worth doing.

This picture was pretty much how far down I had to go,I left everything on bottom end stock. this is has the 42lb fuel injectors were put in.

I tried doing last min painting

And this is how I mounted my intercooler with my trans cooler behind it. I love tractor supply because we manage to buy metal brackets and drilled through it, and hammered down the edge to make it look custom.

Well, this is pic of the intake with spacers and the manifold/turbo etc, lots of colors after I am done with this car.

Ended up using stock intake coupler and rtv the holes and drilled holes in a intake pipe and put a grommet with rtv to hold onto place, will probably buy zzp IAT extension cause the wires are all under a lot of tension.

Started on a saturday morning around 7am and worked on it till 2am with about 5-6 hrs running around and eating and stuff,
Then started at 1pm on SUnday and worked till 4pm and got real pissed, so shopped for parts till like 5 and went fishing till 9:30PM and worked till 6/7am. and during fishing I managed to catch a fish by hooking on the head and not the mouth thought it was interesting. on mon we start at 1pm till 2am with about 4hrs running around. Tuesday my friends worked around 2pm-11pm while I was at work.


Wednesday, We tried to get the goal of starting this up started around 6pm and ended 11pm, but had many problems, like fuel seemed to be leaking, or filling up the injectors, then the coolant rail was leaking because o ring was shot, and now the oil problem I am having.

Now just gotta start that exhaust which will be interesting...

[pocket-rocket]

You won't hear the BOV until you rev it and let the RPMs fall. The boost gauge also shouldn't read any boost until you rev it and the turbo starts spooling. Spool time can vary depending on the load. The higher the load the engine sees the better the turbo will spool.

[narutov2]

Alright, old problem fix, the oil leak is fixed, the feed line I had was leaking cause the 1/8" nipple I got from lowes was leaking so we used two 1/8" barb fittings so we could tighten it to the feed line, and then used a hose in between.

NEW problem, car would run, but it idles high at times and would spike up to about 1500-3000rpm, and then stall. then my friend thought the turbo is hooked up backwards.... because it seem like it was blow air out of the air filter, but isn't that just cause pressure was being build from idling with the throttle closed? I am not sure if it was the vac lines doing that, or is it because of the 3.5 throttle body I have needs the tps and iac connectors switched out with the old tb? Well I will try changing the tb stuff tonight after work, unless someone says that is a waste of time.

[narutov2]

well ended up not doing anything today, but need to know some opinions. These cars are all vacuum controlled right? like the brakes, fuel regulator, heater, etc? is running pressurize vacuum going to mess the fuel regulator up?

[mfuller]

Brakes are hydraulic with vacuum-assist, and the FPR has a vacuum reference. Not sure about the heater.....
When I had my supercharger years ago, Magnacharger supplied a device that bolted to the top of the stock FPR, converting it into a rising rate (they called it a "compound") fuel pressure regulator, which was supposed the raise the fuel pressure in the rail as boost pressure increased in the intake manifold. I never could get it to run right though; likely because I was still using stock fuel injectors, and with about 9psi I kept throwing fuel system lean codes. I wish I kept thevacuum line routing so I could be more helpful - I know other turbo 3400 users have useda stock-style FPR though.

That's about as far as I go....I'm not sure if that helps or not.

[RedZMonte]

i boosted into mine without any problems. FPR, Trans regulator, HVAC, brake booster, everything. the stock HVAC has a check valve in it IIRC so it shouldnt switch positions under boost. my FPR lasted about 2 years then went bad... the car had 120+ K miles so i wouldnt say that it failed cause of the boost. replaced it and now 160K Miles no problems. it should all be fine.

Now i think about it,
I am running a stock 4T60e OEM trans shift reg. i had problems with the aftermaket red stripe one under boost. it would slip out of gear when i boosted in 2nd gear, put a OEM one back on and no problems. (repalced with trans rebuild, no problems with original or replacement OEM part)

Shane

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

well ended up not doing anything today, but need to know some opinions. These cars are all vacuum controlled right? like the brakes, fuel regulator, heater, etc? is running pressurize vacuum going to mess the fuel regulator up?

Brakes - brake booster has a check valve. It only allows air to flow from the booster INTO the engine. It will maintain vacuum in the booster and block turbo air pressure out of the brake booster.

Fuel regulator - This NEEDS to see boost. It is supposed to keep the pressure constant between the engine intake manifold and fuel rail. As manifold pressure is boosted UP, the regulator needs to see this boost to keep the fuel pressure correct.

Heater/ A/C etc. - This has a vacuum check valve like the brake booster. It holds vacuum in and blocks turbo boost out.

On all my turbo conversions, the problems have been few. I have had the HVAC check valve failing after too many miles of boost. It causes the HVAC to go to Defrost when the engine loses vacuum (long hill etc.) Also had small hoses pop off from boost, such as the fuel regulator and MAP sensor hoses. These cause serious failure of the fuel delivery and can cause a meltdown. So please make sure the fuel regulator and MAP hose are tight.

Hope this helps! I have not done a turbo conversion on a car as new as yours, but the principles are the same. I'm glad to see your pictures. Can't wait to see more of it!

Sincerely,
David

[narutov2]

Thx everyone, I see well, anyone know why my car isn't running? it stalls in like less than 5 secs. It starts and rpms jump like crazy and then stalls. any theories? I am running low on ideas, and is thinking about just getting the exhaust done before knowing if it runs....I mean the previous owner had a stock pcm without a tune, so generally I do not think that is my problem, and if vac is suppose to see boost and those that shouldn't already have a check valve, I dunt think that is my problem.
Do I need a adjustable fuel regulator????
I still need to change the tps, but been busy.. working on the car today though.

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

Thx everyone, I see well, anyone know why my car isn't running? it stalls in like less than 5 secs. It starts and rpms jump like crazy and then stalls. any theories? I am running low on ideas, and is thinking about just getting the exhaust done before knowing if it runs....I mean the previous owner had a stock pcm without a tune, so generally I do not think that is my problem, and if vac is suppose to see boost and those that shouldn't already have a check valve, I dunt think that is my problem.
Do I need a adjustable fuel regulator????
I still need to change the tps, but been busy.. working on the car today though.

I don't think the fuel regulator would cause the problem of not running.

I would start with the basics. Ignore the turbo now, it doesn't do anything until the engine is under a load. It won't cause a crank/stall problem.

You mention the TPS. If it is giving a false-HIGH reading (falsely showing open throttle) it will cause starting difficulties.