My Official turbo built for my 2000 Monte Carlo

[narutov2]

SO that means I can just leave the wastegate vac line connected to the throttlebody vac port? Or should I move it by making a hole for it in between the tb and the maf? Also on the waste gate and bov there is only one vac port I need to worry
about right? cause both of them have a vac port pointing down, and my friends think there should be something there...


Also I hope everything is just because of a small mistake on the fuel rail now. The wideband has been reading 20 which was the max the gauge can handle, but when I step on the throttle it would go down to like 13-16 which is normal since it is eating more fuel right? SO as of now I have a super rich or a super lean problem? How so you get a lower reading? What readings are you guys getting?

[RedZMonte]

I have my wastegate vac line from the oulet of the compressor (nipple on the compressor housing) to the WG and my BOV and Boot/vac gauge to a port on the intake manifold. if you have a proper vac source for the BOV the vac will help open the BOV when you let off and also the gauge will show vac at idle/light throttle and boost when your in boost.

My WBO2 reads about 14.7:1 on light throttle and normal driving and about 11.5:1 under hard throttle/boost.

S

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

SO that means I can just leave the wastegate vac line connected to the throttlebody vac port? Or should I move it by making a hole for it in between the tb and the maf? Also on the waste gate and bov there is only one vac port I need to worry
about right? cause both of them have a vac port pointing down, and my friends think there should be something there...


Also I hope everything is just because of a small mistake on the fuel rail now. The wideband has been reading 20 which was the max the gauge can handle, but when I step on the throttle it would go down to like 13-16 which is normal since it is eating more fuel right? SO as of now I have a super rich or a super lean problem? How so you get a lower reading? What readings are you guys getting?

If the WB is reading 20, you are extremely lean. Lean conditions indicate that air is entering the engine WITHOUT going through the MAF. This would indicate a vacuum leak.

Normal AFR indications on a WB should be APPROXIMATELY like this:

idle - 13.5 to 14.7
driving normally - 14.7 to 15.5
highway mode 16+
PE mode - 11 to 12.0

The vast majority of the time it should be in the 14 range.
It should never be lean at idle.
It should NEVER go higher than 12.5 at WOT.

If it's not responding as above, there's an issue. I would check for vacuum leaks first (esoecially in light of the brakes symptom) then consider possible tuning calibration issues.

Gotta go for now!
David

[TGP37]

The PCM tune can also create a lean condition until it closes the loop. Then it is up to the o2 sensor.

Keep in mind a series of misfires can also spike the AFR to 20+. Even a small leak in the exhaust before the o2 can cause a false lean reading. Most people think a small exhaust leak is no big deal but the exhaust pulses in +/- pressure waves. Which means it is sucking in fresh air equally as much as exhaust gases being expelled.

btw, nice pics!

Tell ya what, we can meet up someday after August if you still are getting issues putting this thing together. I have a welder, air-tools and an HPTuner. If your ride is 97+ I can help you tune it. You would just have to buy the credits to flash your PCM as I am all out.

[narutov2]

DUDE I DefiniteLY WOuld take your offer if you do that for me. But That explains the misfires pops I've been hearing sometimes. Would check everything.

[TGP37]

DUDE I DefiniteLY WOuld take your offer if you do that for me. But That explains the misfires pops I've been hearing sometimes. Would check everything.

Yeah, the 2000 Monte Carlo 3.4v6 is supported in HPT and only uses 2 credits. I can scan and log your ride but no changes until the software had the rights to edit your VIN. 2 Credits are needed and they cost $50/ea = $100 (Believe me I know, it is a bit much) - The owners of HPT got a strong cash cow, lucky f'ers.

I am far to busy atm to make time but around early september we could work something out.

And a log/scan can point out SOO much helping diagnosing issues. I couldn't turbo w/o the ability to tune when ever I need too.

[trewyn15]

so whats news on this build? did you get it to run? i see you selling the old parts so wondering if that means all is good now!

[narutov2]

Well It's now sitting for a week because when I sent the first pcm to zzp they won't program me anything unless i send them a working pcm which sux cause now it gotta sit, and I guess it's cool cause I still get a core back for it. Right now I'm actually working on it, and got the injector all the in which was causing probs, but having problems finding where the vac lines go, and confused, my car don't have a transmission vac modulator does it?

[TGP37]

Well It's now sitting for a week because when I sent the first pcm to zzp they won't program me anything unless i send them a working pcm which sux cause now it gotta sit, and I guess it's cool cause I still get a core back for it. Right now I'm actually working on it, and got the injector all the in which was causing probs, but having problems finding where the vac lines go, and confused, my car don't have a transmission vac modulator does it?

You can shuffle vac lines around, just as long as they are on the correct side of the throttle body.

Just as long as the few key vac lines are getting a healthy vacuum signal you should be good to go.

Brake booster - Only large one, obvious
Accessory - If you have one it controls your heat/ac vents
MAP & FPR - Manifold Absolute Pressure and Fuel Pressure Regulator need vac or it will run crappy. I like to keep these two on the same vac circuit so fuel remains equivilant to MAP.
BOV - Tap into and vacuum line, I got a Tee that fit the brake booster vac line and routed the BOV there.
Wastegate and MBC - Not necessary but might be employed. Needs some research to get it right, the MBC that is.
If you have the 4T65 you do not need a trans vac line, if you have the 4T60, you do or all your shifts will be hard and bang.

If you purchase 2 credits for HPTuners I will tune your PCM for you. So it will cost you roughly $100 but I will be able to get your injectors dialed in and fine tune the MAF so your fuel trims remain around 0%-1% offset. All that is needed for that is a few good strong pulls in third gear, which is commanded by the software. And we may even be able to get your AE enrichment tuned in a little, get a snappier throttle. Make sure the proper tire size is in, adjust stoich for 5-10% ethanol if you want.

Oh and you will want a better spark map more suited for boosting. Mainly the WOT under boost spark advance, I have a spark map for 3100-3400 with the WOT boosted region tuned up good. Some of it came from a 3100 dyno tune at 12 psi, happened to swap spark maps with another poster in HPT forums. It works great and no KR.

It could take a few hours but thats fine, I got sooooo much help here and I can give back.

[narutov2]

Dude I can't begin to know what to say, I could definitely use your guidance. I will be checking the vac lines again some time. though, maybe if problem still exist you would be the one to find it.

[TGP37]

Dude I can't begin to know what to say, I could definitely use your guidance. I will be checking the vac lines again some time. though, maybe if problem still exist you would be the one to find it.

Ahh it's cool, I'm just another guy willing to help another fellow enthusiast. Having the scanner and ability to log does help diagnose issues. Besides, your engines airflow characteristics has changed greatly, you need a tune. And you dont want the PCM to command 13-12.5:1 AFR under boost. I read many instances these engines work well at 11.6:1 under moderate boost.

Besides, I need someone to race on the highways. The PA Turnpike going east is lots of fun, through the hills just outside of Pittsburgh. For those who dont know about it (live elsewhere) it is a wide open, multi-lane stretch with really large, smooth curves and clean pavement. The kind of road where you can do 80-100mph through a bend. Plus there is no place for law enforcement to park it.

It's a great stretch. Every time I drive through from a trip I 'dog' the car I'm driving. One time it was in my Brothers Mustang Hatchback (forget year). Nice car, v8 5 liter, headers, CAI, plus other little details. A Guy we know built it for his girlfriend but then she dumped him. So he bought it for a fair price. Flooring it and the entire car would nose up and roar.....THAT car had power. Between him and I, my GP is the only car that has more HP, but we all know why...... boost /cough boost

EDIT:

I, myself, typically run a sliding AFR. I logged the onset PSI average per fueling cell (open loop vs airmass vs rpm) and created a map where and how much boost comes on. Before boost I hit 12.5-12.0. The moment the manifold is balanced (no vac/no boost) it hits 11.8. at 5 psi it is 11.6 and it runs to 11.2 on the high end well into boost to help combat temps and knock.

That is with PE disabled. I then match PE mode to mimic the open loop fueling tables but it slides 0.4 AFR richer over the time of 16 seconds. During a 1/4 mile run the AFR will slide as heat increases. I need to refine it once I can find an open road where I can repeat pre measured 1/4 markers.

[narutov2]

Sigh I got the pcm back, put it on, tried to start, and would only crank. and would have a misfire each time I stop trying to start it. This is horrible. Any ideas why it is doing that?

[TGP37]

Sigh I got the pcm back, put it on, tried to start, and would only crank. and would have a misfire each time I stop trying to start it. This is horrible. Any ideas why it is doing that?

Is your crank sensor wired up properly? Did you get a PCM from another vehicle or is this the cars original?

If it backfires a little, then you are throwing a spark. It may be too weak or off angle, but you are throwing one if you are getting misfires.

Triple check your coil plug arrangement.
Make sure the cam sensor is plugged in
Is your fuel pump priming?

Don't get frustrated, this is typical of a large build like a turbo install. Just got to work out the kinks and flaws.

[narutov2]

Well it's the same pcm I sent to zzp to program for me. I think I might have to adjust the throttlebody too a little bit, will be checking spark plug wiring since We did unplug and replug the front ones, maybe careless mistake I hope. It started up before we reinstalled the fuel injectors and sent the pcm out. I think I got all the vac good. so maybe we unplugged a sensor too... i wish i didn't work so much, I mean hell I am quitting in 2 weeks cause college is starting again. but hope I get a car by end of month otherwise I'm screwed. been hitching rides to work as it is. thanks tgp37 for reminding me this is a big project. just that time got a knife near my neck now...

[narutov2]

Well the project is pretty much done in the end. after weeks and weeks and weeks of procrastinating. I called off work along with 2 other friends and tackled it today. AND FINALLY everything works. brakes, idle, boost, everything period. Although it is whistling in a leak it is working good enough for me to say it's all good. lol. It does seems like it was going to stall when it sits at the light, like the car would studder and stuff, but isn't that what you guys call kr? all my check engine lights seem to be fine now.

Ran it for a good bit, had the intercooler pop off a couple times, but now clamped it enough to bend the pipe lol

now just gotta finish up my front bumper from the body kit since the aftermarket one i had had no side lips to mount the bumper and I used duck tape temp for about a year... cause just tooo lazy. Well it should be smooth sailing from here, I hope.