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i maxed out 32lb injectors @ 315 HP, no way 28lb is even close enough for this setup.
Shit, @ 36lb/hr i'm still close to 80% duty cycle!
OK, enough about the tuning.. Nobody's said anything about real numbers. What i'd like to see is a breakdown of AFR VS RPM. If he's staying in the 11's with the AFR's all the way through boost at WOT then it's possible that the tune was not the cause. the KS will pull timing if it senses knock (unless it's been unplugged). We know it's not the "right" way but what do you think people did before computers? They tuned by smell and feel.
I agree 100%. If this engine was tuned on a dyno (not just to see how much HP), then there would have been a WBo2 hooked up. I want to see the graphs from the dyno .
I was afraid running #28 injectors on my 3500 would be too small!
My 24# Denso's would get me to 250hp on a boosted 3.1 according to all the literature I have read.
At 15PSI, twice the fuel would be needed as N/A - (2BAR ). 65# injectors would be a better choice for that situation.
JOHN- You still haven't said if you had a RRFPR (FMU) or not. Raising the FP astrinomically would allow a smaller injector to be used (like the imports do).
Are you kidding me. Ive done everything completely right with a forced induction car. How many RSM users has went so far as to add the following.
-Z-Spec Racing / Vortech Supercharger Kit
-Vortech Charger Unit bearings upgraded from ABEC 5 to ABEC 9
-Stage 2 pully kit installed capable of 15 psi
-Forged Arias Racing Pistons with a Compression of 9.1
-Light Weight chromoly Performance PushRods
-MilzyMotorSports Stage 1 Boost cam
-Comp Cams 26986 Valve Springs rated at 122 lb @ 1.750 and 283 lb @ 1.175, Coil Bind 1.040
-Delphi 28 Lb/Hr Fuel injectors
-NGK TR-7 IX Iridium Spark Plugs
-Custom 3.5” Cold Air Intake
-RSM Racing Poly/Aluminum Tranny/Motor Mount
-B&M Tranny Cooler
-RSM Racing 62mm Throttle Body
-Ported & Polished Upper Intake Manifold
Powder Coated Red w/ Polished 3400SFI Lettering
-Polished Fuel Rail
-Valve Cover – Powder Coated Red
-RK Sport Carbon Fiber Coolant Tank Cover
-MAP Engineering Throttle Body Heat Shield (useless but I have it :P)
-Taylor 8mm Spark Plug Wires & Boots
-Casper Electronics Manual Hi-Speed Fan Switch
-The Other Guys Ceramic Coated Headers
-Random Technology 3” Down pipe Fabricated to Match Headers
-Hi-Flow Cat
-Borla Cat-Back Exhaust
-High Volume Oil Pump
-HP tuners Software with a Dyno tune from Method MotorWorks Fresno
-name oner person with The Other Guys Ceramic Coated Headers woth a Z-Spec charger. You cant Im the only one. name one person with exclusive Dyno time with there Z-spec unit. You cant if very few.
Dont tell me I did things wrong, Ive not seen one person with a GA do this much to a Z-spec setup. And read my other post...I was in the process of adding the MAF. Infact I had already tried a stock one out.
So shut your big flappy mouth Im tired of hearing people say "you did it wrong" it wast done ass holes! meaning I still had work and improvements.
It is time to face reality, you spent a lot of time and money only to fuck up your engine not only once but twice! As the saying goes "fool me once shame on you fool me twice shame on me". It is time to own up to the fact that you did not do everything correctly.
Fueling played a major role in this, with no RRFPR and 28lb injectors on 13lbs of boost. Your fueling may have been ok on a 3rd gear dyno pull at WOT, but that does not mean your car is tuned for the street. I hate to break it to you, but your car was in no way tuned.
BTW: Zofo61 had TOG headers with the RSM kit...... and several of your mods are cosmetic only.
Like everyone else has said, please post pics of the head and also the cam sheared cam pin. If nothing else this could serve as a learning purpose for everyone.
2000 Grand Am GT 2011 Chevy Impala
"The world's best cam combined with a poor set of heads will produce an engine that's a dog. But bolt on a set of great heads even with a poor cam, and that engine will still make great power." ~John Lingenfelter
at 300hp 28lb injectors are 100% duty cycle, effectivly they are locked open. for 350hp at 55lbs fuel pressure you need 40lb/hr injectors to run at 80% duty cycle. now 80% duty cycle is the max you want to run, idealy you should be lower than that, so ideally 46lb injectors or bigger is what you should have been running.
do you have a wideband a/f gauge mounted in the car??? this is pretty much mandatory theese days in any aftermarket boosted car
at 300hp 28lb injectors are 100% duty cycle, effectivly they are locked open. for 350hp at 55lbs fuel pressure you need 40lb/hr injectors to run at 80% duty cycle. now 80% duty cycle is the max you want to run, idealy you should be lower than that, so ideally 46lb injectors or bigger is what you should have been running.
do you have a wideband a/f gauge mounted in the car??? this is pretty much mandatory theese days in any aftermarket boosted car
I have a A/F guage, but no wide band. I was about toget one. Oh well. I need a SVU. Im buying a 91 Ford Explorer 2dr. sprt 4x4. there nice.
Anyways I will get pics up soon, but Im not replying to anymore. Ive said all I can. Thanks for the input guys, your all very intellegent. Definitely apreciate it.
look at my pic how does the valve turn completely around and stick st8 thru the cyclinder. There isnt enough room. is foul play suggested by mechanic???
Sometimes I wonder if this was all one big tall tale........some of his responces just dont make sense...almost baiting responces from the forum......the tale of the shady "Mechanic".....the almost boastful disregard for even the slightest of suggestions. I dont know......just gotta gut feeling that there is more to this......hmmmmmmmm....let the conspiracies begin.
Sometimes I wonder if this was all one big tall tale........some of his responces just dont make sense...almost baiting responces from the forum......the tale of the shady "Mechanic".....the almost boastful disregard for even the slightest of suggestions. I dont know......just gotta gut feeling that there is more to this......hmmmmmmmm....let the conspiracies begin.
lol. like what.....thing is..my buddy who is a decent mechanic and who has rebuilt many engines looked at this pic and said there was no way this could happen, then he had said that Franks Auto Performance has had a couple of his friends friends cars, and they never seem to stop breaking, they always end up back in the shop. Due to engine failue after the owner frank has rebuilt the engine, So now Im thinking about taking this guy to small claims, cause 3 times he rebuilt my engines, 3 times theve always came back less than 4k miles on them. hats what I ment by foul play, could the valve really do that?
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