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2.8L exhaust leak, causing sluggish accleration?

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  • 2.8 Grand Prix
    replied
    When I say that I have started the process, I mean that I have done some minor disassembly of the engine compartment. I haven't pulled the dead 2.8 out yet, and I don't intend on putting in the 3100 until I get the 2.8 out. I just got my hours increased at my current (new) part-time job, so this will cut into my time available for the swap as well.

    Another road-block: My Oldsmobile (daily driver) quit on me today, so I am now looking to purchase a replacement vehicle. So....., that means that I am going to be limited on funds for a while.

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  • pmaniac69
    replied
    you should be able to pull the motor out in about 2 days, its getting everything else all set that takes time

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  • SofaKingWeToddDid
    replied
    Originally posted by 2.8 Grand Prix View Post
    I have started the process. So it's not like I'm starting from scratch.
    where exactly did you start?? if youre trying to put the engine in before you take it out of the other car youre gonna run into some problems...
    stuffing two engines in your car might be an idea... you wouldnt be the first wbody to do it.

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  • 2.8 Grand Prix
    replied
    Originally posted by pmaniac69 View Post
    I'm saying this because it took me exactly 29 days to change my 3.1 to another 3.1
    if you haven't done an engine before, its going to take some time, trust me
    I hope it will take less than a month to do it. In November, I will have my dad available to help me.

    Another thing, Robertisaar emailed me a basic checklist for engine removal. It doesn't look that hard.
    If I follow that list to the tee, making adaptions where needed, I don't see why I couldn't have it done in 2-3 weeks.

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  • pmaniac69
    replied
    oh, and both times with that motor, I worked on it 6 hours after working 9 hours, everyday

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  • pmaniac69
    replied
    I'm saying this because it took me exactly 29 days to change my 3.1 to another 3.1, and I have swapped an engine before, I would say about 2, BUT they were chevy 350s, and they are easy compared to these, than, it took me another 2-3 more weeks because the first motor I got was junk, so I ripped that back out

    second time around, after everything was fresh in my head, I had the motor out in 2 hours

    if you haven't done an engine before, its going to take some time, trust me

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  • 2.8 Grand Prix
    replied
    I have started the process. So it's not like I'm starting from scratch.

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  • 2.8 Grand Prix
    replied
    What makes you say that? I may not have experience swaping motors, but I do have one thing..... TIME. Sure, I may not have all day, but days a week (tues., thurs., fri.) I can work on it all morning and part of the afternoon. On saturdays I can work on it all day.

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  • pmaniac69
    replied
    if you got all the tools, you don't need any money to rip the motor out, and if you've never done this before, I can almost guarantee that you will NOT have it done by that date

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  • SofaKingWeToddDid
    replied
    Originally posted by pmaniac69 View Post
    I have an idea, GET STARTED ALREADY
    X2

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  • pmaniac69
    replied
    I have an idea, GET STARTED ALREADY

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  • 2.8 Grand Prix
    replied
    I plan on deleting the A/C. That was my plan all along!

    I would like that part number again for the A/C delete pulley. Will that pulley mount in place of the compressor?
    Please, I need all the answers I can get my hands on at the moment. I got a part-time job yesterday and I feel my time is even more limited now. Plus, my grandfather says he needs the Grand Prix out of his garage before November 13th.

    If any of you have any great ideas on how to get this swap done soon, please let me know. Thank you very much!

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  • SofaKingWeToddDid
    replied
    i say screw AC!! get the delete.

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  • WrathOfSocrus
    replied
    The Gen 2 compressor will not fit your newer Gen3 block. You need either a Gen3 compressor or an A/C delete pulley like the part number I gave in a previous post. The Gen 2 compressor has 4 bolt holes around the circumference where as the newer compressors have bolt holes that are perpendicular to the compressor. The water pump needs the smooth side of the belt to run it so you need some type of idler or compressor; you can't run the belt straight to the crank. It would go from the power steering to the crank and wouldn't drive the water pump without some sort of pulley to bring the belt in contact with the water pump.

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  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    Hopefully Lorenzo (gpse3400) will chime in on this. He has a wealth of 2.8, 3.1, 3x00 cross reference knowledge that would amaze a GM tech...

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