Rotor Types

[Anonymous]

About two years ago my dad bought some of those cheap-o rotors for my mom's Euro. I think they were US$35 a piece... 6 months later they were warped, and one of them had a small crack in it.

Cheap rotors are made with cheap metal and they warp easily. I've heard this from several sources. If you're not spending $50+ then you're getting cheap ass rotors (referring to build quality). My EBC's were $75 each (only make fronts), and they're still flat after 9 months and ~9,000mi.

[blk92z34getrag]

About two years ago my dad bought some of those cheap-o rotors for my mom's Euro. I think they were US$35 a piece... 6 months later they were warped, and when I went to turn them, I noticed one of them had a crack in it.

Cheap rotors are made with cheap metal and they warp easily. I've heard this from several sources. If you're not spending $50+ then you're getting cheap ass rotors (referring to build quality). My EBC's were $75 each (only make fronts), and they're still flat after 9 months and ~9,000mi. of city driving.

EDIT: Mod sorry for double post, stupid crappy school computer logged me out before I posted.

[RidgeRunner]

I've run the same cheap ass rotors for about 2 years now. I overheated my last set, and they did crack.

[Juglenaut]

No warpage yet on 2 years of heavy city driving!!!!!!!!!! and water puddles on the spec one pads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! of course they need to be replaced next winter.

If my memory serves I got UBP ??? brand computer balance, and presurfaced rotors

Let me look............................clomp clomp slammmmmmmmm

I was right UBP they were on sale for 8.00 regular MSRP 25.99 each list 17.99, on sale 8.00 looks like I bought 8 fronts and 8 rears hmmmm where they go -(O|O)- oh yeah in the trunk of my Euro DAH got 4 front 4 rears left, I used a set on my Euro and just recently put a set on my GTP. CDI remanufactured rear calipers loaded times (2) $100 flat, front 39.99 each 15.00 core thats 50 buckerooos. I gave a set to my sister and she had my well trusted machanic friend put the on with new pads for dirt cheap 50 dollars a side plus I even sold her a set of spec-ones for 15 bucks that a deal. His motto is "If you bring the parts I will put them on" at least to me, I guess it saves him paper work and time.

[Lyle's GTP]

Hook me up with some $8.00 rotors. For that price I'll take five of each.

Lyle

[Cliff8928]

I dont' even know what kind of rotors are on my Beretta. They have been installed on it since I got it ohh-- going on 6 years. Just a few sets of Wagner Powermax brake pads since then (gotta love the lifetime warranty). I've never even got any pulsation or anything, but they probably are cracked.


Cliff Scott
89 BerettaGT
89 Volvo740

[93LuminaZ34va]

108K on OEM's, just had to have new pads. Next time around I'm gonna get some of the hi-perf ones from napa.... drilled/slotted. I forget the price, but its got a nice warranty

[Corpse]

I dunno about the W Body and other rotors but, this is for the J/N/L Body brakes. Appearently, the Fiero guys figured out that the rotors from Autozone are poorly made. We all could have guessed that but, they had found from doing brake upgrades that some of the rotor hats are misplaced in relation to the rotor.

that means that the $12 Autozone rotors really can't be trusted. Just figured I would share that incase anyone didn't know and is thinking about going cheap. I would assume that the L/J/N body's are not the only effected platform so, watch out for Autozone.

I think everyone already knows to look out for Autozone though.

BTW, for a street driven car, I think the "Dimples" are the way to go over cross-drilled. Just the fact that the rotor isn't weakened as much. Also, always make sure the cross-drills on rotors are made chamfered, or else they will flake.

Aren't slotted rotors supposed to add leading edge to the braking system? Not just venting?

But, I figure I'll back up some info... As was said, you are not going to get that much better braking unless you move the calipers out more and, that almost always requires rotors.

Some people would figure that more or less pad area would make a difference, or multiple pistons. Multiple pistons are mainly to even out pad pressure and pad size mainly has to do with wear and how much heat the pad can hold.

Which is why many rear disc cars have the little tiny pads, you'd figure that bigger would be better but, only if you change the characteristics of the braking setup.

Stainless steel braided hoses are helpful to a brake system. They are a nice upgrade, as they relieve some sponginess of the system.

Sorry, I just like to elaborate at times.

-Dave

[blk92z34getrag]

And to back up / add to what Corpse said... as well as maybe others...

The only real difference you'll notice with drilled / slotted rotors is HIGH speed stops (i.e. 50mph+). The only way to stop faster is with fatter (not lower profile) tires. I.E. 245's will generally stop better than 225's because there is more rubber holding the road. There will be variances in the different brands and compounds, but fatter tires should produce better overall results than just performance pads and rotors. Of course, you can accentuate those 18's with the RSM big brake kit and get awesome results.

The best route (at least for W-bodies) for the best braking performance would be big brake kit and the widest tires you can fit in there.

[DEI37]

I use EBC GreenStuff pads, and EBC Sport Groove slotted & dimpled rotors. The combo isn't bedded in yet, but cold bit is awesome, and the pedal feels really good. I remember years ago, swapping over to Raybestos BruteStop pads & slotted rotors. I DID drop 11' off of my 60-0mph stop distance. I feel that I will drop another 3-5' with this combo. These tires are stickier than what was on the car before, so that affects it, as well. I like 'em...paid $200 for the pads & rotors.

This is on my '97 CS.

[mihela816]

I use Brembo rotors from TireRack and they work just fine, $35 a piece