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Most power from the 3.4 DOHC?

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  • #46
    oops
    I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.

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    • #47
      I have a buddy in Milwaukee right now with a complete '96 3.4 DOHC, and he'd be glad to sell it. He's moving in a couple of months.
      I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by FieroWannaBe
        Originally posted by ryan.hess
        what kind of budget are you looking at here total?
        On putting the motor in the car, includeing th emotor 1200$, Im thinking i can do it with the lq1, maybe close on the 3800, but i know thats impossible with a N*, mabye after college.
        Sorry to kill your hopes, but its not possible with that budget. You need...
        $300 clutch/pressure plate
        $90 flywheel (unless you have an 88 Fiero with a V6; then you can use that flywheel)
        $80 new fuel pump
        $150 exhaust components
        $20 engine mounts
        $45 radiator and heater hoses
        $15 coolant filler neck/cap
        $20 power steering delete pulley/bracket
        $45 PROM reprogramming for VSS (gmtuners.com)
        $15 decklid strut (you have to remove the spring that holds up the right side of the lid to clear the motor)
        $20 dogbone parts

        That leaves you with a totally inadequate $400 for a perfectly running motor with a complete ECM and wiring harness (which has to be adapted to the Fiero) and all of the accessories in working order. If you get a used motor (which I don't recommend), I wouldn't install it without changing the timing belt while the motor is out. Timing belt parts are a little over $200 total. You need the belt & pulleys ($175), and tensioner actuator (from GM, $50).
        All of the little stuff is what will get you. In addition to what I listed above you will make numerous trips to the hardware store to get paint for your brackets, various nuts and bolts, cut off wheels, sawzall blades, welding wire, drill bits, more nuts and bolts, glue, motor oil, grease, transmission fluid, oil filters, vacuum caps, hoses and hose clamps, barb fittings, hose couplers, wire, heat shrink tubing, solder, not to mention all of the seals and gaskets from anything you take apart (transmission axle seals, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, etc).

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        • #49
          He wont have to change the fuel pump, he has a v-6 and also the engine in his car is an 88 leaving him with no need for a flywheel either. You left out exhaust fabrication though, which can be killer, (if he doesnt wanna do it himself) and a stock air filter/box wont cut it. The dodge mounts are that cheap but if he doesnt want to do the fabricating or wants poly he'll need to spring for some dickman mounts at around $60 a piece.

          Also with the two plastic pullies and belt and tensioner pulley and tensioner actuator my tab for parts on the timing belt was around $260 WITH a dealer employees discount. They wanted somewhere around $450 without. Granted you may not need a tensioner pulley nor tensioner actuator (can be re-lubricated), but having had one of my pullies fail I replaced all of the components.

          Where are you comming up with the $20 p/s eliminator steven?

          He'll also need to devise some system to block the rain from the front plugs.
          3.4 DOHC- 95 engine, custom intake manifold, custom cams, ported exhaust manifolds, Turbonetics T-62, Haltech standalone, 13.5 psi, air/h20 intercooler... yadda yadda...
          1987 Fiero, ST lowering springs, KYB's, Clutchnet dual diaphragm 6-puck, custom paint, 18's with falken fk452 225 front Nitto NT05 245 rear. Should be around 450whp...

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          • #50
            Originally posted by fieromadman
            He wont have to change the fuel pump, he has a v-6 and also the engine in his car is an 88 leaving him with no need for a flywheel either. You left out exhaust fabrication though, which can be killer, (if he doesnt wanna do it himself) and a stock air filter/box wont cut it. The dodge mounts are that cheap but if he doesnt want to do the fabricating or wants poly he'll need to spring for some dickman mounts at around $60 a piece.
            Yeah, exhaust fab might get expensive.. hopefully he's got a welder for that. I managed to build my first exhaust for $150 as I mentioned above, but I have a MIG welder. My new exhaust was about $250 total; I ended up using a Spintech muffler and some mandrel bends along with a Magnaflow cat.

            Also with the two plastic pullies and belt and tensioner pulley and tensioner actuator my tab for parts on the timing belt was around $260 WITH a dealer employees discount. They wanted somewhere around $450 without. Granted you may not need a tensioner pulley nor tensioner actuator (can be re-lubricated), but having had one of my pullies fail I replaced all of the components.
            The tensioner pulley can indeed be re-lubricated.. but I wouldn't trust an old one anyway. It's best to replace the whole system. I don't know how you managed to pay $260 with a dealer discount.. I don't get discounts anywhere and for me the timing belt and pulley set (idlers and tensioner) were $176 from Kragen Auto Parts (www.partsamerica.com) and the tensioner actuator is $52 from GM parts direct. The pulleys and belt from Kragen are OEM brand (Dayco).

            Where are you comming up with the $20 p/s eliminator steven?
            Junkyard 1986 Chevrolet S10 pickup with the 2.5L and no A/C has a pulley that is the exact same size as the power steering pump pulley. Install this to a 1/8" plate drilled for the power steering bolt pattern. Use some washers as spacers.

            He'll also need to devise some system to block the rain from the front plugs.
            Using a rear cover on the front with a $15 oil fill bung and cap JB welded in solved the water problem for me. The cover has a much more shallow center area (or rather, lower ridges) so the water drains out before it goes into the spark plug holes.

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            • #51
              Has anyone dynoed an lq1 with a set a of custom cams, is there much performance gains to be had, or are the factory cams well enough?
              Something cool coming soon...


              96 LQ1!

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              • #52
                I don't know of ANYONE that's sprung for custom cams and gone ahead to dyno them.

                Honestly, I think you should just sack up, throw the motor in, and go from there. You'll spend more money on a custom grind than you will actually putting the motor in. Remember... 4 cams in total, right? You're looking at at least 2-300 EACH cam....

                *edit*

                Mach10 =

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                • #53
                  Huh? They're $100 a piece.

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                  • #54
                    For a custom grind? Let us drink of your knowledge, learned one!

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                    • #55
                      Crower, 100 bucks a piece regrind. If you are talking custom cams, thats 500 each or so...screw that. With 360 degree adjustment a regrind should handle most applications.
                      Ben
                      60DegreeV6.com
                      WOT-Tech.com

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                      • #56
                        Basically $100 to return to stock specs on a worn cam. That I will buy...

                        $100 for a custom grind? Schyeah...Right!

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                        • #57
                          No, its 100 each to regrind your stock cam to different specs.
                          Ben
                          60DegreeV6.com
                          WOT-Tech.com

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                          • #58
                            And Crower does this?


                            Well then, consider my previous comment retracted, and myself officially

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                            • #59
                              Crower does it for 100, CHRfab.com does it for 125ish.
                              Ben
                              60DegreeV6.com
                              WOT-Tech.com

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                              • #60
                                Has anyone experimented with any profiles?

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