95 3.4L DOHC Monte Carlo Crazy Idle Issue

[SappySE107]

Stick a screwdriver in the gap on the washer, and twist. Hit it with a hammer (even if it looks like this will just make it tighter). Just need to break it loose. The correct procedure has you spin the crank over 3 times to make sure the belt is fully stretched for installation and then the cams tightened up. The tensioner will not put equal tension on the belt. It will mostly be tight between the tensioner pulley, and the rear exhaust cam. You will be off a few degrees if this rear exhaust is not spinning free. It will run like that, but not as well as it could.

[tincherb]

I got one more off after about 4 hours worth of work. I honestly don't think I can get enough force on that last rear most gear to get it to move. I soaked it in PB blaster last night in an attempt to break it free. Hopefully something will give today. Maybe I'll need the exhaust cam gear on the rear.

What is the torque for the cam gear bolts suppose to be? Is there a torque list for bolts on this engine anywhere.

[tincherb]

I know now that there has been two miracles that have occured this time of year, the first is the birth of Christ and the second is this...

[pocket-rocket]

I know now that there has been two miracles that have occured this time of year, the first is the birth of Christ and the second is this...[ATTACH=CONFIG]5205[/ATTACH]

Lol!

For some reason, the #'s 80 or 88 ft-lbs are coming to mind, most likely 80 ft-lbs for cam gear torque spec. I can look it up if you like.

[SappySE107]

awesome, now you can time it no problem

[Fierobuffoon]

truly painful to read..

I really tried everything before it broke. I used a lot of PB Blaster over the 2 days I was trying. I tried to wedge out the tapered ring with a chisel/screwdriver, used a puller with some hammer taps to the back side. When it broke I was hitting the backside. It started to mov'n right before it broke as I could see the gear sliding on the back side. I thought I was in the clear. The tapered ring never came out. It broke right at the edge of the machining for the cam sensor pickup where a likely stress riser would be.

To get the other one off, I put channel locks on the tapered ring an sqeezed them as tight as I could get them. Then, I carefully!, tap'd the back side of the gear and the ring easily fell out. IMO, this worked the best! HA! These things were rusted (may or may not be normal) on the shaft. Anyway, its off. I got a nice paperweight in the process!

Look for some Kroil, before you start working on your car again.. it may be expensive but a little heat, let cool, and apply Kroil and soft tapping and rusted stuff comes apart, in a better way..#@ IMHO.. after reading all of these posts its easier to make marks on the timing gears, and crank snout*pully*, then use the alignment tools, with the belt removed, rather than mes swith stubborn gears, in fact ive come up with a homemade tool you might like..take a short rachet of your choice, and two sockets for the cam pulley bolts,click on one socket, and then put the other one on a lined up head, then weld the second socket to the handle of the ratchet,allowing you to hold one cam while rotating the other......

[tincherb]

Well gentlemen, its complete. I fired it up about an hour ago and no miss. I didn't let it run long because I'm freezing. Ben, you've been a lifesaver in many ways and I really appreciate all you did for me. Hopefully this is the last time I work on this car. Thanks again.

[SappySE107]

awesome

[pocket-rocket]

WooT! Glad to hear it worked out ok.