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Originally posted by AaronGTRI got a question. What's the point of replacing the freeze plugs? Is there a problem with the stock ones that they won't handle a built block or something? I just haven't heard of anyone else doing this before so I'm curious. What's the advantage of the brass ones?Colin
92 Sunbird GT, 3200 Hybrid 13.99@ 95.22 (2004)
90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 10.54 @ 129mph.
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Originally posted by v6h.o.You've never had an engine rebuilt before have you? When a machine shop cleans/works on a block they always pull the core plugs.Mine was stripped bare...
Torque plate is now on the way...
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They don't have to pull the "core plugs", but it is a good idea. And can we quit calling them "freeze plugs"? If a "core plug" pushes out due to freeze, you got cracks somewhere, (probably around your "freeze plug"), and you are a moron for letting it freeze in the first place.
Most who posted on this thread probably understand that core holes are where the core mold is supported during the casting process. Freeze plugs are a misnomer. And whoever thought that up needs a! Talk about misleading the public....
IMHO. R&BC...If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
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Originally posted by v6h.o.Originally posted by AaronGTRI got a question. What's the point of replacing the freeze plugs? Is there a problem with the stock ones that they won't handle a built block or something? I just haven't heard of anyone else doing this before so I'm curious. What's the advantage of the brass ones?I've read about rebuilds where people have had them replaced with brass plugs instead of putting stock ones back in and I was wondering why they did this. The only reason I've ever heard is that they'll use threaded plugs sometimes in racing engines and really extreme street engines that have very high oil and coolant pressures.
'97 Grand Prix GT 3800 (sold)
'00 Grand Am GT 3400 supercharged
13.788 @ 103.73 mph, 320whp 300 ft/lbs
Gotta love boost!
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Originally posted by RednBlackCutlassThey don't have to pull the "core plugs", but it is a good idea.
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Let's see... what can I schedule. [img]images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif[/img]
How about a party at Ben's house next weekend. Woohoo!!
BYOB!!!
[img]images/smiles/icon_twisted.gif[/img]
^^where did that come from? it was there when i opened the quickreply bar LMAO
anyways.... on with my message :P
its not just the inside of the block you have to worry about
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Originally posted by tejohnsonHell Dennis, I didn't realize how close you were to me. My block and rotating assy is just down the road from you in Sarahsville @ WRP.There are a lot of 660'ers in Ohio.
If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
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Back on topic though, most "Good" parts outlets carry Dorman products. Dorman handles steel, as well as brass and expandable core plugs. Just measure yours and build your own set. Personally, I would stay with steel. As noted earlier, with proper anti-freeze solution, no problems with rust, from the inside. Paint them outside and you have a total seal.If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
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Originally posted by RednBlackCutlassAnd just why is that?
As to the comment I made before, I was obviously confused about your location
With so many folks in the region, should have a get-together area this year (National Trails?).
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i would be down for national trails
lol anyways, antifreeze doesn't cool your engine, the water does, the more water, the better it will cool. i wouldn't run full water but i would do maybe a 2:1 ratio, using distilled water of course
oh and water wetter, or some kind of surface tension reducer will always help
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