High compreeion 3.1 pictures.

[02dohc]

i saw your post and it is a pretty sweet build. on the pulley situation, what year camaro or s10. im guess somthing that had a 2.8l in it. i own a 85 fiero and have a spare 2.8l if you need those pulleys.

[Blacktree]

The valve lift with 1.5 rockers is .426 intake and exaust, the .300 is the clearance to the pistons with the piston up and the exaust valve open. Larry

OK, cool. Just out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the LS6 valve springs? Is there a particular reason why people switch to them?

[trotterlg]

The ls6 springs put about 120 to 130 pounds of seat pressure on the valves, if you are wanting to get to 7,000 or so with hydraulic lifters you will probably need the stiffer springs. I think stock springs are about 85 pounds. Larry

[Blacktree]

Thanks for the info. I may be doing a similar project with a 3.4 (also in a Fiero). So I'll be watching this thread with interest.

[trotterlg]

Slowly moving along. Have the distributator near done, I used a mechanical advance only marine top mated to the bottom end of one from an S-10. Made up a new shaft and added a bearing in the center. It is about 1 1/2 inch taller than the stock S-10 to clear the lower intake. I am making up a custom upper intake to move around the distributator position. No electronics or computers here, just points and carbs. Larry

[trotterlg]

I got the valve covers bolted down and finished the distributator up. This angle shows the clearance to the LIM to the bottom of the distributor housing. The distributor body is from a Marine GM V6, I used the bottom part from an S-10 and mated it with the top half from the marine engine. I used this because it uses no electronics at all, just points and condenser and does not use a vacuum advance, only mechanical. I gave the body about 1/4 inch clearance over the LIM, I will make up a custom upper intake that will clear the side of the distributor body and be as low as I can get for the difficult Fiero install. Larry

[geoffinbc]

Ouch man I hope your not going to run the points. At least install a electronic conversion kit. Or just use the distributor to send the spark to the right cylinder and use and external box for timing. That way you can have a vacuum and rpm reference.

[trotterlg]

I may install a pointless conversion in it when I get it in the car and running, there is nothing easier to deal with when first getting started up than points and a coil. Larry

[bob442]

are you scared of modern fuel manigment? lol

[trotterlg]

This thing should be dead simple, no EGR, PCV valve, cam sensor, crank sensor, knock sensor, or anything else to throw an error, just gas and spark plus a little air, I remember those days!. Larry

[Blacktree]

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the dogbone mount bracket? I'm assuming the thermostat interferes with the Fiero dogbone bracket?

[trotterlg]

The dogbone bracket is the one from the other side of the engine when used as the Olds 3.1 FWD system, I cut the lifting ear off before mounting it to the other head. The Fiero bracket won't fit because it is from an iron head engine and attaches differently to the engine. Larry

[geoffinbc]

I agree that it is sometimes nice to be simple but points leave a lot on the table as far as spark timing and intensity go. Also if your going to spin up the motor they may fail you. However your a little better off than a V8 since there is one less spark event per revolution.

[trotterlg]

You are right, points do float also, (not too many people remember those days) but it affects duration mostly which affects the energy in the spark. I think they will be fine for getting it running and setteled in, then I will see what it's needs are, there is a breakerless kit for these marine distributators easily had. Then there is also the ballast resistor to deal with, remember those? Larry

[geoffinbc]

Yea I do. I worked on a Dodge colt once and it had an electronic ignition but still used a ballast resistor that was giving an intermittent connection. I was able to track down a coil that did not require one and that thing felt like it had a new motor in it after that coil swap. The ballast would drop coil voltage at low RPM and just killed the spark. But it was needed to keep the coil from overheating. Talk about band aid solution.

I think getting it running and then finding a solid state module would be a big improvement.