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I've run out of intake mods that i can do practically.. I put on some 3.4 intakes, the 56 tb, and topped it off with a cone filter right off the MAF. In late fall/winter/ into early spring that set-up is good because really cool air is always getting into the engine bay.
The problem comes in the summer months, when it's 14 billion degrees under the hood and 90 degrees outside with humidity (southern Ontario, Canada). The cone filter at that time right off the MAF is retarded. I switched back to my stock air box and of course there is a difference. This got me to wondering... and i came up with these findings.
I took apart the intake, removed the MAF and took it apart. Using cleaner, I gently cleaned each MAF wire to it's original finish. I grinded down the fins running through the center to knife edges at each end. I matched the diameters as well as possible and put it back together.
I took out the MAF screen, I know what it does, but my stock filter works at the micron level, so im not afriad. It makes sence that removing the screen improves flow.
I removed the headlight and removed half of the intake plumbing. The top half that it attached to was then pointing right at the fog-light hole... so I removed that fog-light.
The last thing was run some ducting from behind the grill pointing toward the valley between the engine and airbox. The extra ventilation is probably good while moving.
After all this, I decided to put the cone back on. Now anything after 10 kilometers an hour will force wind through all the modified/added plumbing and provide at the least a cooler charge.
That, plus the removal of the MAF screen have yeilded some noticeable results... We've had a couple low-humidity/cool nights where I really feel the pull.
Intake mods are the most common, so I thought I'd share my story here.
P.S. I'm not worried about the bare MAF and after market shit cone filter. I know it's not good, but anything good isn't good for ya.
The problem comes in the summer months, when it's 14 billion degrees under the hood and 90 degrees outside with humidity (southern Ontario, Canada). The cone filter at that time right off the MAF is retarded. I switched back to my stock air box and of course there is a difference. This got me to wondering... and i came up with these findings.
I took apart the intake, removed the MAF and took it apart. Using cleaner, I gently cleaned each MAF wire to it's original finish. I grinded down the fins running through the center to knife edges at each end. I matched the diameters as well as possible and put it back together.
I took out the MAF screen, I know what it does, but my stock filter works at the micron level, so im not afriad. It makes sence that removing the screen improves flow.
I removed the headlight and removed half of the intake plumbing. The top half that it attached to was then pointing right at the fog-light hole... so I removed that fog-light.
The last thing was run some ducting from behind the grill pointing toward the valley between the engine and airbox. The extra ventilation is probably good while moving.
After all this, I decided to put the cone back on. Now anything after 10 kilometers an hour will force wind through all the modified/added plumbing and provide at the least a cooler charge.
That, plus the removal of the MAF screen have yeilded some noticeable results... We've had a couple low-humidity/cool nights where I really feel the pull.
Intake mods are the most common, so I thought I'd share my story here.
P.S. I'm not worried about the bare MAF and after market shit cone filter. I know it's not good, but anything good isn't good for ya.
.
such is life, and i will make it.
. But my associates and bachelors will also be like the ASE certs. Just paper.
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