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  • Gasket Matching Heads

    Can I gasket match with the valves installed?

  • #2
    you can, but it's a bad idea, with all the metal shavings...... and why? it's pretty cheap to go rent a valve spring compressor and just pull them out, then put them back after your done. Makes sure you can get *all* the metal shavings out

    Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
    Cammed 3500 --> ???
    1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

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    • #3
      the last post made no sense what so ever. you go and tell him its a bad idea then tell him to do it.

      its not a bad idea. it removes the extra material giving the air a staright through flow instead of catching on the extra metal.
      sigpic
      99 Grand Am GT
      3400/3500 -Solid trans mount--TCE 65mm T-body---85mm LS2 maf---1 1/4' TCE intake spacers with 3400 upper--SLP Catback with flowmaster 80--TOG headers
      Modded 3400 lifters with LT1 springs---Comp Cams 26986 Springs
      1357 cam 227 233 .050 dur
      515 515 lift 112 lsa
      15.232@88.85mph on stock 3400---New time to come


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      • #4
        Take the valves out if you do do it. You will see gains but take the valves out. You don't want metal shavings in your motor.

        Originally posted by geldartb View Post
        the last post made no sense what so ever. you go and tell him its a bad idea then tell him to do it.

        its not a bad idea. it removes the extra material giving the air a staright through flow instead of catching on the extra metal.
        He's saying its a bad idea to do it with the valves still in the head.
        00 Grand Prix GTP Daytona

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        • #5
          Originally posted by geldartb View Post
          the last post made no sense what so ever. you go and tell him its a bad idea then tell him to do it.

          its not a bad idea. it removes the extra material giving the air a staright through flow instead of catching on the extra metal.
          Makes sence to me..



          but yes, remove the valves. You can buy a C clamp spring compressor from Sears for around $30 which makes the job very easy.
          Past Builds;
          1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
          1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
          Current Project;
          1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Superdave View Post
            Makes sence to me..



            but yes, remove the valves. You can buy a C clamp spring compressor from Sears for around $30 which makes the job very easy.
            Agreed. I can't remember if mine was $20 or $30, either way, most autoparts stores will rent you one and you only need to give a deposit equaling the cost of the tool - ie, if you keep it, you pay cost, bring it back and it's free.
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            • #7
              just bought my craftsman c clamp style for $20 a few weeks back at the most, deffinetly a good tool to have if you plan to mess around with engines

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              • #8
                Sounds good. Thanks guys. I was looking at a few valve spring compressors that were pretty cheap on e-bay.

                I just have a couple of questions about removing the valves.

                When I remove them, do I have to change any seals or anything like that before I put them back? When I reinstall the valves, do they have to go back in the same place they came from or can I put any intake valve in any intake port and any exhaust valve in any exhaust port?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by TazMan View Post
                  Sounds good. Thanks guys. I was looking at a few valve spring compressors that were pretty cheap on e-bay.

                  I just have a couple of questions about removing the valves.

                  When I remove them, do I have to change any seals or anything like that before I put them back? When I reinstall the valves, do they have to go back in the same place they came from or can I put any intake valve in any intake port and any exhaust valve in any exhaust port?
                  It would probably be best to put the valves back in the same place where they came from. I would probably replace the seals and such. It would keep you from having to do it down the road and I don't think that they are that expensive.
                  00 Grand Prix GTP Daytona

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                  • #10
                    I was going to do my heads the same way, but on my 3500 the GM gaskets already perfectly matched ALL of the ports on the head!

                    It was great, saved a bunch of time. On the LIM and UIM however... lots of material came off. Up to a quarter of an inch in some places.
                    SpudFiles
                    Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                    Theopia
                    Enjoy life online.

                    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                    3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

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                    • #11
                      did you at least smooth the ports? that's a big part of it, the rough casting creates turbulent airflow.....

                      but yes only smoothing and not having to really remove any material would speed things up

                      Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
                      Cammed 3500 --> ???
                      1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

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                      • #12
                        you dont want to smooth everything out... the area after the injectors should remain somewhat rough to help atomize the fuel
                        Originally posted by PCGUY112887 View Post
                        I was going to do my heads the same way, but on my 3500 the GM gaskets already perfectly matched ALL of the ports on the head!

                        It was great, saved a bunch of time. On the LIM and UIM however... lots of material came off. Up to a quarter of an inch in some places.
                        thats a big part of the reason the introduction of aftermarket gasket sets help us out so much

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by PCGUY112887 View Post
                          I was going to do my heads the same way, but on my 3500 the GM gaskets already perfectly matched ALL of the ports on the head!

                          It was great, saved a bunch of time. On the LIM and UIM however... lots of material came off. Up to a quarter of an inch in some places.
                          Depends on your definition of "exactly"...



                          Here's sanded to 150, and matched perfect...



                          The intake mani side (you can see the carbon stains from the motor in stock form)...





                          the entire runner was polished the same, all the way to the UIM/plenum (that was matched to the metal upper gaskets...



                          I can agree that the 3500 heads need very little material removed for flow, gasket matching should be definately benificial.
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                          • #14
                            Your heads must somehow be different than mine, since my heads matched the GM gaskets PERFECTLY. I wanted to remove something however could not find anything to remove.
                            SpudFiles
                            Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                            Theopia
                            Enjoy life online.

                            1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                            3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by PCGUY112887 View Post
                              Your heads must somehow be different than mine, since my heads matched the GM gaskets PERFECTLY. I wanted to remove something however could not find anything to remove.
                              Did you remove the valve and bolt the heads to the manifolds? Mine are a perfect match after the work done.

                              I will admit they were very close (emphasized in the pics because of angle), but there was a little material to remove on three sides of most of the intake ports.
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