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  • Not able to keep my cool

    Howdy, y'all. Long time no post. I've been out of the 60V6 game for a long time, but I'm back in it now.

    I acquired a 1996 Buick Century wagon quite recently—this past Monday, February 25th, to be precise. The price was decent ($1500, book is over two grand) and the body and interior are in good shape. It drove well from Ontario, CA, back to Las Vegas, and got 26 mpg. Not what I was expecting for a 3100 V6 in a relatively light car, but still pretty good. Like any old car, it needs some lovin', some maintenance that seems to have been deferred, like brakes, shocks, struts, oil change, transmission service. You know, the usual stuff people mostly ignore. All in all though, a pretty nice deal.

    Fast forward to last night. It popped the upper radiator hose. Luckily it happened about two blocks from home. Unfortunately, I had to push it those two blocks, and, not kidding, nearly died from the exertion. Was dizzy, light-headed, tingling in the extremities, all that. Today I put on both rad hoses and a new cap, and said "fuck that" to the thermostat because of its location and the things that seem to need moving to get to it. I couldn't bleed the system, so I took it to a shop to have them do it. Said shop tried to take me to the cleaners. I was given a prognosis of a blown head gasket (despite the lack of telltale white smoke from the exhaust), and told that it would be more cost-effective to put a new engine in, for a nominal fee of course. I politely told them to give me back my car and left.

    A couple miles later, the temperature gauge was pegged and the heater was blowing cold. I had the car towed back to my house courtesy of a friend's roadside assistance. He's something of a mechanic as well, and after fucking around with it, he says it needs a thermostat and maybe a radiator. This is based on the fact that the temp gauge is pegged, the engine is hot, both hoses are warm but not hot, and the radiator is ice cold. It's probably clogged, and/or the thermostat is stuck. Does that sound right?

    Here's a picture of it, if that helps.
    Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 250k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!

  • #2
    Yup sounds about right. The rad should be the same temp as the engine. At full operating temp there is no way you could rest a bare hand on it. Do the stat first. Just for diagnostic sake once you get it out if there is no obvious problems then put it in a pot of water and bring it to a boil on the stove. It should open just before the water begins to boil.
    1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
    1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
    Because... I am, CANADIAN

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    • #3
      The T stat housing has a notch cut out of it so you don't have to take the lower bolt out. Just take off the upper blot and get the lower bolt loose enough to take the housing off.
      95 Beretta 3100 with 3400 intakes and TCE TB
      High flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler
      Grand Prix trans with 3.33FDR

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Purple pit View Post
        The T stat housing has a notch cut out of it so you don't have to take the lower bolt out. Just take off the upper blot and get the lower bolt loose enough to take the housing off.
        That's great to know! I was thinking I would have to pull the throttle body to get to it.
        Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 250k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!

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        • #5
          Just having too low a coolant level can make the symptoms you speak of.

          I would refill the coolant in the rad neck (not over flow tank) and start the car cold with rad cap off. Blip throttle a few times to see if more coolant is needed.

          Parking the car facing up on an incline can help bleed it.



          What you want to check is the coolant line from the rad neck to the over flow tank. Often times they can leak or crack where it lets coolant out of the rad when hot, but puts air back in when cooling down. Make sure that is sealed up well. What you want is coolant spilling into the over flow as the coolant gets hot (expanding). If there are no leaks, it will draw coolant back in when cooling (contracting). Even a small crack in the plastic nipple can introduce air. Eventually compromising the coolants ability to circulate from the air pockets halting proper flow. Which is why the heater is ICE cold but the temp gauge says hot.
          Last edited by TGP37; 03-09-2013, 09:35 AM.
          1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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          • #6
            New thermostat in, now it won't start. It started and ran before the repair. While the TB was off, I cleaned it and the MAF with TB cleaner and MAF cleaner on the appropriate side. Would that ruin the MAF and cause a no start?

            EDIT: Pulled the spark plugs on the front bank, they're wet with coolant. 80-90-110 compression.
            Last edited by LeftVentricle; 03-09-2013, 07:06 PM.
            Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 250k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!

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            • #7
              History of overheating and now coolant soaked spark plugs. Could very well be a blown head gasket. But it might also be a leaking coolant line above the plugs, or the coolant was spilled when filling/bleeding?


              My best guess is warped cylinder heads with cracked/dead head gaskets.

              MAF cleaner is fine but I can't tell you what TB Cleaner would do to the sensors in the MAF. Most cars will run just fine with the MAF unplugged.
              Last edited by TGP37; 03-10-2013, 09:25 AM.
              1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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              • #8
                Probably just the head gasket. Pull the head and check it with a flat edge. You can also use a camera probe and see where it blew. As long as it wasn't severely overheated the head should not be warped.


                Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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                • #9
                  Yeah, I'm looking at a head job for sure. Gonna take a while, assuming I even have the right tools. I know I'm lacking at least a torque wrench for reassembly. Is there anything special I will need for tearing down the top end?
                  Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 250k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I believe a 8,10,13,15mm sockets and ratchets. That should be all and a torque wrench. Harbor freight sells decent ones for 10-$20, so does Walmart. Head gasket is a simple job. You will also need head bolts and new intake gaskets. You should be able to get it all for under $100. Changing head gaskets on these cars are so easy. You can probably get it done in 2 hours if you are comfortable working on cars. You should also get a scuff pad or similar and a razor blade to take the old gaskets off. Just clean the surfaces good and reassemble.

                    Estimate:

                    Take the top intake off - 10 bolts.
                    Take lower intake off- 4 bolts
                    Take thermostat tube off- 2bolts
                    Valve cover - 2 bolts
                    Rocker arms -12 bolts
                    Head bolts - 8 bolts

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                    • #11
                      It is more time then special tools. Remember to catch the little o-ring that flies out if you disconnect the fuel lines at the rail. I try to lift and hang the entire LIM with the fuel rails attached.

                      The P/S Pump can be unbolted through the pulley holes....3 bolts....set to the side with hoses attached.

                      You might need to replace spark plugs and cables due to overheating. Especially old cables as they often break when pulling off at the boot.


                      When you remove the spark plugs, keep them in order so you can inspect them by cylinder if needed. And DO NOT over torque any manifold cause the LIM will leak and the UIM will crack if too tight.


                      You also need Black RTV for the LIM valley.

                      Drain coolant from the block or the coolant in the heads will dump coolant into the crankcase when pulling them.
                      Last edited by TGP37; 03-11-2013, 08:18 AM.
                      1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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                      • #12
                        If it were mine I would have the heads tested and resurfaced And use new head bolts as they are T.T.Y .

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by cavalier3400z View Post
                          Probably just the head gasket. Pull the head and check it with a flat edge. You can also use a camera probe and see where it blew. As long as it wasn't severely overheated the head should not be warped.


                          Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
                          With the water pump spinning backwards, the heads may have been subjected to serious heat. Depends if a vacuum was created or not. Basically pulling whatever coolant possible out of the block while the t-stat prevents more coming in.

                          I would at least check the heads. Would suck to put them back on and have them leak and ruin all that work, gaskets.
                          1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by unchained01 View Post
                            If it were mine I would have the heads tested and resurfaced And use new head bolts as they are T.T.Y .
                            QFT.

                            ~$80 for cleaning and testing is less than another head gasket set anyways, and every aluminum head I've taken in has had to have some degree of resurfacing to get a perfectly flat surface. I think of it as insurance and piece of mind.

                            Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
                            With the water pump spinning backwards, the heads may have been subjected to serious heat.
                            That was another guy in the DOHC section with a Z34.
                            -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                            91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                            92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                            94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                            Originally posted by Jay Leno
                            Tires are cheap clutches...

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
                              QFT.

                              ~$80 for cleaning and testing is less than another head gasket set anyways, and every aluminum head I've taken in has had to have some degree of resurfacing to get a perfectly flat surface. I think of it as insurance and piece of mind.



                              That was another guy in the DOHC section with a Z34.
                              Ah wow, twice in one day!

                              I need a /knock in head smilie, lol.
                              1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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