Typical Intake Manifold Gasket Oil Leak

[mpit91]

I do not have the money to have a mechanic replace my intake manifold gasket so i am going to do it myself. I own a 2001 pontiac grand am gt, know the car inside and out, except for the engine. It has 111,000 miles on it and i am fully aware of the usual intake gasket going bad in these engines.

Can someone explain to me how to replace it myself? I dont think it should be too hard but i need some good advice as this is my first time.

[GTP091]

I do not have the money to have a mechanic replace my intake manifold gasket so i am going to do it myself. I own a 2001 pontiac grand am gt, know the car inside and out, except for the engine. It has 111,000 miles on it and i am fully aware of the usual intake gasket going bad in these engines.

Can someone explain to me how to replace it myself? I dont think it should be too hard but i need some good advice as this is my first time.

Buy the repair manual for your vehicle and read the section covering the repair.

[RedZMonte]

Its ease, just take your time. remember where all the bolts went and make sure everything is tight before starting it. Use the new felpro gaskets (metal i believe). everything goes on the exact way it came off.

The lower intake manifold IIRC has 2 bolt holes in it, once the LIM is set into place you need to use thoes 2 holes to pull the LIM into place before the bolts that hold it to the heads will line up. TQ the LIM bolts from the center out and make sure you have all the old gasket meterial cleand off the heads and intakes before reinstallation... its all pretty self explanitory when you take it apart. don't forget to replace the Dist. O-ring while in there. once back together, fill and bleed coolant system.


S

[talon2swords]

I think new procedure is to use locktite on bolts.

I didn't know that at the time, but I think mine is still ok 2-3 yrs later.

[poopster]

Repair sequence

Greetings all,
Im about to tackle my first LIM gasket replacement for my 2001 3100 malibu. I have Felpro metal gaskets to put in.
My question is, It looks like the gasket goes around one of the pushrods, so does that mean i need to need to remove one rocker & push rod on each side or all or none? and if so what is the torque on the rockers, and what would be the expected amount of hours to do the job?

Thanks, any replies would be much appreciated

[RedZMonte]

I don't know the answer to that.... but i think i saw a few weeks ago someone asking that question and i think i remember them saying the pushrods have to come out to do the lower intake... BUT don't quote me.... Im a black sheep on here.... I drive a DOHC

[bszopi]

Yes, you have to remove several of the pushrods to change the gasket. As far as tightening specs -> http://60degreev6.com/content/3100_E...Specifications Goto the LA1/LG8 section for your engine.

[poopster]

Thanks a million for the info

[60dgrzbelow0]

You can make things a bit easier on yourself by taking staged images as you take things apart with a digital camera that will make the reverse re-assembly easier and with a handful of ZipLock Bags and a Sharpie to identify the fasteners (and where and from what they came off of...) so at the time of re-assembly... you can look at these images on your computer...then print out what you need as reminders and then you won't wind up with a shoebox full of parts that leave you scratchin' your noggin about What goes Where...and Why...and in What Order ... You will need replacement fluids and drain pans to catch things like your anti-freeze, etc. Once drained...AF should be covered or placed in a safe container to prevent animals from drinking the sweet smelling liquid. They like it...but it will paralyze and kill them if they ingest the stuff!

Set up a work bench or table and organize and lay everything out that you will need for the gasket(s) installatian including your assembly torque pattern diagram(s), torque wrench and other necessary tools right along with all the needed cleaning and preparation materials you require to make the manifolds squeeky clean before re-assembly. Make sure you air clean off the top of the engine in order to minimize the chances of dropping anything dirty and gritty down inside the motor as you go along. A two inch roll of Blue Painters Tape is handy to have to tape off anything that yawns invitingly at you as you take the top of the engine apart... Just remember to remove all vestiges of the tape B4 you bolt the top back on the motor.

Don't start this project late at night or when you are very fatigued or distracted. Not being completely ready to do any mechanical task from beginning to end can be a real worry and lends one toward making mistakes. Read carefully the chapters in your Repair Manual and clearly tab and/or highlite and mark the important areas with Postits so when you are up to your elbows in dirt and grease...you can still double check what you are doing against the proven procedures. Don't be tempted to ignore proper torque procedures and don't scrimp on quality sealers and adhesives that will be required for the fix. When you are done... you want air and fuel going where they are supposed to go... and water and engine oil staying inside the motor where they belong. Good Luck with the FIX!

[pocket-rocket]

And remember, intake pushrods and exhaust pushrods are different lengths. Mix them up and kiss your valves goodbye. Exhaust pushrods are longer than the intakes, IIRC.

Revised LIM tightening procedure:

http://60degreev6.com/content/Lower_Intake_Manifold_Revised_Tightening_Procedure

[poopster]

DONE DEAL!

Thanks to all who put their input to help me out!
My repair job was a sucess, The only casualty was one 10mm snap-on socket that vanished in the "GM TRIANGLE" and my sore back!

If the factory would have spent an extra 59 cents on Locktite this problem may have not happened, as it did have three loose bolts on the LIM.
Its sad when the US auto makers has to cut corners just to stay in the game and the asians dont, cause they pay their workers $1 a day....

sorry I was just venting