I have a 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE with a broken front right axle , can anybody tell me what tools i need to replace the CV Axle, and the directions on how to??? please help me!!
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For my L body, I needed T55 torx to take off the wheel bearing, a big socket to take off the axle nut (like 28-30mm or something), a hex bit for the brake caliper, and the usual tools.
Raise the whole front end.
I loosened the strut mount nuts so that the whole strut/knuckle assembly was loose, and then I removed the axle nut, wheel bearing, brake caliper/etc, then disconnected sway bar endlink, and separate the ball joint. you'll need to turn the wheel one way to seperate it, and another way to put it back in. I just pryed with a bar and tapped the knuckle gently with a small hammer to separate it. Then swing the strut assembly out a little bit with the wheel turned one way to push the CV out of the knuckle.
Then to remove it, you'll need a SMALL pry bar turned opposite way of how you normaly use it, and put it between the trans case and the CV, have someone pull on the CV (the thick part by the case) and then slap/tap/whack/hit the pry bar gently but quickly with your hand and it should pop out.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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If I remember the GPs are a W body car.... It's really easy to do the axles. Jack up the side you wanna change and remove wheel, caliper (T60 Torx Bit),the axle nut (36mm), (loosen the axle nut BEFORE you remove the brake hardware.. You can jam a screwdriver into the vanes in the brake rotor to hold the hub from spinning) and the hub. The bolts for the hub are on the inside, 15mm and extension work... You may need to turn the wheels to get better access to those. To pop the axle use a tire iron, pry-bar or big screwdriver between the axle and tranny case and pry or give it a whack with your hand.... The axle comes straight out from where the hub bolted in... Don't know if the CV joints will pull apart,, but,,, I try not to pull on the axle. Once it pops you can guide it right out....
I've done this on my 93 Z34 and 99 Lumina with no problems....
Hope this helps!!!
Tom
There is another recent thread that deals with this.....
Also use some Never-Sieze on the new axle splines, makes future work MUCH easier!!Last edited by walterdude; 01-05-2009, 12:52 PM.
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Right, Just saying mine was an L so it might be a bit different but most should apply. The sockets/etc might be different but procedure should be same.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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Issac, wasn't disagreeing with anything you said. The main thing I wanted to say is with a W body I've never had to touch the sway-bar or seperate ball-joints. ALL else does apply!! I tried to give a few hints and I guess I got carried away and repeated almost everything you said.....
Ooops!!
Friends????
Tom.....
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Yeah no offense taken. That's cool that you don't need to disconnect the ball joint to move the knuckle out of the way. On mine you just couldn't push the CV though the knuckle with out swinging it out, and disconnecting the sway bar end link helped me push down the control arm enough to separate the balljoint.
It's all good.
FWIW on both sides of mine I couldn't get it out with whacking the pry bar alone. But if someone was pulling on the axle cup thing when I tapped the pry bar, it came right out.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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Well, on a W-Body the knuckle doesn't need to be touched. The axle comes straight out through the the hole (it IS big enough) where the hub was bolted. You don't need to loosen the struts, move the knuckle or anything else, just remove wheel, caliper, rotor and hub and that's it!!! EASY!!! Also saves the price of a wheel alignment!! Yeah, getting the axle to pop can be fun, especially when I don't know anybody in the area to help!! As Zappa once said, "Out Of Necessity Came The Mothers Of Invention"....
This IS on a W-Body,,,, never worked on any other "newer" models. If you look at my age you can tell I went to the OLD school. These cars ARE pretty new to me.... I know more about 60s and 70s Muscle Cars... The W-Bodies tho,,, I've learned a LOT..... Mostly NOT by choice!!!
Oh well, between the 2 of us I'd say he has his answer,, a bit long winded, but accurate!!
TomLast edited by walterdude; 01-06-2009, 10:03 AM.
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Mine the shaft just sticks out through the knuckle/spindle too far. And you can't angle the axle enough to pull it out. I didn't mess up the alignment cause I left the strut bolted to the knuckle and the tie rod on, just disconnected the ball joint and loosened the strut mount 3 top bolts which are really not much play for adjustment up there.
Yeah hopefully he is all fixed up! haha.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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