Coolant Leak...not the LIM gasket 4 a change

[torq455]

not necessarily. I was loosing coolant in my Grand Am. from time to time i'd smell coolant. i finally discovered a heater hose that was dripping on the headers and instantly burning off. i, too, had the fear of a bad heater core, but i figured out the intermittent smell in the cab was weather i had the blower motor running or not.

[talon2swords]

Well I think I found the (or a) leak. I had put metal LIM gasket on this car, and I guess the small coolant line quick disconnect thing to the intake manifold (next to the thermostat housing) never recovered and is now leaking.

I think some people here in earlier post said this part may be available at the "Help" section of the parts store?

[torq455]

most likely yes. i no longer have mine. i just forced the hose over the hard line.

[tractorman]

Yes, those connectors for the heater hose pipes are available in the 'help' section- at Autozone, at least. About $10.

After replacing the one on my '94 Corsica and having the plastic tab break AGAIN a couple years later, I was fed up, and replaced it with a 1/2" NPT X 5/8" compression fitting. The fitting worked like it was made for that application. Been over a year now and no leaks so far- and I won't have to replace that fitting next time I need to remove the heater hose pipe.


About the OP: Did DRCZ24 ever find the leak? My '94 Corsica's leak turned out to be the timing cover... a real PITA to re-seal, but doable. No problems for a little over a year now.

onefastv6- great tip about the freeze plug on the head. One thing I'd like to add, though, is that freeze plugs can be replaced easily enough in chassis. As long as there's room to get a hammer and socket (or better yet the proper driver) in there, you can replace the plug. Even in areas that are difficult to access, if there are accessory bolts nearby (as in your picture), I've replaced freeze plugs by fabricating a 1/4" thick plate that will bolt onto the head (or block, as the case may be, using said accessory bolts), covering the freeze plug. This way, the bolts can be tightened, using the plate to press a new freeze plug into the hole. Freeze plugs generally need to be seated maybe 1/16" below flush, and washers can be stacked into the plug to accomplish this. Also, it's a good idea to put some sort of sealant around the OD of freeze plugs. I prefer red anaerobic sealant (locktite 515, 504, or similar), but have also successfully used green locktite (609 or 680) and even white teflon pipe thread sealant. Silicon would probably also work, but wouldn't be my first choice.

I've heard of people removing freeze plugs by drilling them, putting in a self-tapping screw, and using a slide hammer... but I've never tried that method myself. I always just put a flat-blade screwdriver out towards the edge and wack it with the hammer. That will 'spin' the freeze plug in its bore (axially, like spinning a coin), then you can grab the plug with pliers and pull it out. Clean up the bore with emery cloth, and it's ready for a new plug. This removal technique will scratch up the bore a bit if we're talking about an aluminum casting, but sealant will make this a non-issue.