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  • Question : head bolts

    I'm rebuilding the top end of my 3.4 in my family van, in short the head gasket blew. both heads were replaced. heres my question i got 3 different instructions what to do with the head bolts in regards to thread sealant. one says to apply thread sealant and put in engine and do the usual torque and torque angle thing, one other says to put oil on threads on top of the sealant (doesnt say if it should be applied while sealant is dry/wet) and the other instruction (from book) doesnt say anything about sealant or oil on threads..... any help would be apprecaited.

    btw kewl website!!!!

  • #2
    I've never used sealant OR oil... so I think you should be fine doing it dry.

    Wait for someone else to confirm that... BUT you should be replacing the bolts with new ones, you did that right?

    Got Lope?
    3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
    Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
    Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
    12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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    • #3
      always use new bolts.. i always apply some loctite red to them just incase... never any oil.
      Past Builds;
      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
      Current Project;
      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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      • #4
        There's your answer... Dave's a Jedi Master at this stuff... LMAO

        Got Lope?
        3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
        Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
        Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
        12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

        Comment


        • #5
          Use new bolts of course, the tensil strength decreases after you remove them because they stretch when being torqued, then when you de-torque them it weakens the bolt. So chances are that since they've been weakened, when you torque it they may break.

          I would never use loctite... It kinda sucks when the bolt breaks in the block and you have to drill them out... And usually have to have a machine shop do it, unless you have the proper J-tools to helicoil it . The majority of the engine builders I know use a LIQUID teflon, that is if it's a wet hole. But personally I would just put them in without anything on them. Just go and buy new head bolts from a gm dealer. Usually if GM wants anything on the bolt, loctite etc. They'll put it on the bolt themselves. Also just checked GM Service Info and they don't say anything about using any sort of sealer on the bolts. So just go buy new ones and put them in.
          You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
          ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
          95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View Post
            There's your answer... Dave's a Jedi Master at this stuff... LMAO
            Guess Dave has never broken head bolts while taking them out . They really suck to drill out , even with the J tools...
            You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
            ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
            95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

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            • #7
              of course its new bolts afterall want to do the job right the first time ha! i went ahead and used the thread sealant becuz the bolt holes are wet (even after blowing it out multiple times etc) but thanks for all the info! will keep posting if i run into any problems (hope not)

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              • #8
                I've always dipped them in oil before installing. Never used any thread sealant.
                -Brad-
                89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                sigpic
                Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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                • #9
                  Clean the threads with a chaser or tap, and apply a little oil to the bottom of the head of the bolt (right under the hex head only, not on threads), especially if the heads are used.

                  As far as re-using head bolts, I have reused them one time on many occasions, never had a gasket go on factory type rebuilds, but it is cheap insurance. My turbo 3.1 even had the main cap bolts re-used on them

                  everyone does things different, but in short, install the bolts dry since there is no fluid penetration on the head bolts.
                  Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 07-25-2008, 08:14 PM.
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                  • #10
                    Go with new bolts and put them in dry. Make sure the threads are clean and the holes are dry. I sprayed mine with WD40 and used lots of QTips. Blowing out with compressed air is also a good idea.

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                    • #11
                      The paper that came with a set of Fel-Pro head bolts I used said not to dip them in oil, but coat the threads with a light layer and put some under the head of the bolt where it contacts the cylinder head. I've done dipped, dry, and reused head bolts and never had one fail yet... Key word, "yet" *knocks on wood*.
                      -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                      91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                      92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                      94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                      Originally posted by Jay Leno
                      Tires are cheap clutches...

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Z26-T View Post
                        Guess Dave has never broken head bolts while taking them out . They really suck to drill out , even with the J tools...
                        Nope.. i've taken out plenty too.. always with the impact gun on low.

                        i took apart a quad 4 with over 200K miles a few weeks ago, headbolts zipped right out. I've also never had a problem with loctite on them. I use loctite red on everything in my engine, headbolts, LIM bolts, rocker bolts, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, mains and rod bolts, etc...


                        i can see why people add oil though, that does sound like a good idea.
                        Past Builds;
                        1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                        1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                        Current Project;
                        1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If you break a head bolt you are doing something way wrong, lol. Using long breaker bars at the JY even, I haven't broken a head bolt - I have split a few sockets, though.

                          One set of head bolts I keep with my engine hoist and has picked up many of engines, after they were used twice.

                          In the shop, I also use an impact for removal.
                          Links:
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                          • #14
                            I never break a head bolt loose with a impact gun. Always with a breaker bar... So i'm guessing I used too much torque breaking them loose? .

                            In the dealer, at GM training school all say to use breaker bar when breaking them loose. Using the impact gun fatigues the bolt and can make it break easier. Everyone at the drag track, from the little 8 second guys like me, to the 4.5 second passes of the top fuel guys, we all use breaker bars to break it loose then use a gun to zip it out. But my engine cost only 30k, and theirs more.

                            Gm doesn't say to use anything on them, so I wouldn't. To coat them in oil was an oldsmobile thing back in the early 80s.
                            Last edited by Z26-T; 07-27-2008, 08:56 PM.
                            You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
                            ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
                            95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

                            Comment

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