Ok, what sensor is doing this to me? I have all my wiring back together*, but now I'm having problems that I didn't have before. Like some sensor is not connected.
There is a delay in the throttle response from idle/closed throttle, about a half second or so. You can feel it when revving from idle, shifting gears, getting on the throttle after coasting, etc.
Seems to rev up to 4000 RPM fine, but then starts to cut out. Maybe I'll get better gas mileage if I have to keep it under 4000...
*Stripped fuel pump wiring out of 'standalone' harness and started using original relays. Relocated electric fan relays. Getting constant and switched power off original ECU leads (instead of direct to battery and the now unused ignition coil circuit). Routed harness to the glove box where ECU is now located. In the process I cut the fuse block, VATS bypass module, and ALDL connector off the harness for easier handling. Those are soldered back in of course. Added power leads for the HO2S and fused those independently (not from each other, just everything else). Moved tach adapter to engine bay.
There is a delay in the throttle response from idle/closed throttle, about a half second or so. You can feel it when revving from idle, shifting gears, getting on the throttle after coasting, etc.
Seems to rev up to 4000 RPM fine, but then starts to cut out. Maybe I'll get better gas mileage if I have to keep it under 4000...
*Stripped fuel pump wiring out of 'standalone' harness and started using original relays. Relocated electric fan relays. Getting constant and switched power off original ECU leads (instead of direct to battery and the now unused ignition coil circuit). Routed harness to the glove box where ECU is now located. In the process I cut the fuse block, VATS bypass module, and ALDL connector off the harness for easier handling. Those are soldered back in of course. Added power leads for the HO2S and fused those independently (not from each other, just everything else). Moved tach adapter to engine bay.
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