EGR Code....repair maybe???

[85_Olds_Ciera]

No vacuum lines or the such.

On my 2.8, there is one vacuum line (ported)...if one can find the schematic to your EGR, I might be able to assist.

Latest service manual I have is for 1987 Olds...

I have a 100 dollar plus multimeter (that has a dwell function), and it can trouble shoot most stuff I'm aware of...if I know the theory of operation of something.

[98malibu3.1]

Here's a basic schematic. There's more than one wire on the connector going to the PCM. I drew it like that just for visual reference. The PCM has total and complete control of the EGR opening.

[85_Olds_Ciera]

Here's a basic schematic.

Ok...so it is fully electronic with only intake/exhaust ports.

If it rains tomorrow, I'll see what I can dig up from the dealership.

But, in the 1987 Olds Shop Manual, there are a series of steps that must be followed...to eliminate other factors.

Can you blow air thru intake/exhaust ports via mouth (using a hose)?

Can you hookup a suction (vacuum) to intake side and plug exhaust side, and start vehicle up and check vacuum at idle and above?

If you have an air compressor, you could blow air thru Exhaust after putting some cleaner in it...do not try it on intake side...it might not be wise.

If I had an electrical schematic...I might be able to say more...

[85_Olds_Ciera]

Here's a

Google Search:

GM EGR VALVE 17091147

1996-99 GM DIGITAL EGR VALVE CHEVY BUICK PONTIAC OLDS

Interesting tidbits: IF you have powerpoint to view: facultyfiles.deanza.edu/gems/waltonjohn/EGRINTRO.ppt

[85_Olds_Ciera]

Here's a basic schematic

Try this here

Right click on underlined URL above, and save to your hard disk.

[IsaacHayes]

You guys are making this too complicated. Clean the intake passage. Clean the EGR working the valves open back and forth with a screwdriver/etc while spraying cleaner in there.

Re-assemble. If code persists get a new /used working EGR.

[85_Olds_Ciera]

You guys are making this too complicated.

Oh, I saw the Shop Manual on this topic...its some sixteen pages long...and you better have the scan tool.

But, in my last post, that article shows how to bench test the EGR.

[IsaacHayes]

Heh yeah you could scan it and figure out if it's clogged or the solenoid bad, but I figure just cleaning both out would rule out a clog.... He has the linear/PWM style, I've never cleaned that one before, but I imagine a good spraying would do it. Perhaps lubing it with a little ATF would help?

[85_Olds_Ciera]

He has the linear/PWM style

Here's how you bench test it: Try this here

Right click on underlined URL above, and save link as....to your hard disk.

[98malibu3.1]

Well, I do indeed have the Linear/PWM style EGR valve. What's the usual life on these dudes? Is there anything you can do to make them last longer? Heat wrap on it to protect it from engine heat maybe? When I get me some time, I'm going to try to clean out the passages by hand and see what that does. I wish I had an air compressor tho.......

[IanSzgatti]

im just going to come out and say... stop worrying about this thing and just replace the unit... for one thing, your going to clean that fu&ker until your raw only to throw another low flow code; seeing as you have a 98, and the egr valve is almost ten years old...

like an injector, the way the pintle moves will change as the insulators break down... because that creates a shorting condition, the magnetic forces require to bring the pintle through its full range of motion is reduced... i.e, loe flow...

I just got through with a mazda a few weeks ago, same problem... my boss doubted my steps through mitchells troubleshooting and had me clean it... i almost broke the wire i made up off inside the passage way, and to boot it really wouldnt go in to far... yeah, we ended up ordering an egr valve... you said it yourself..... its cheap! so buy one.. yours is broken...

[85_Olds_Ciera]

.... its cheap! so buy one.. yours is broken...

Back around 1979, when a person I know went to GM tech's school, the instructor said "the days of throwing parts at the problem are over."

What was meant is that one needs to trouble-shoot, and know which part is defective. Needless to say, since 1979 era, mechanics have wasted thousands and thousands of consumer dollars by replacing the wrong parts.

In any event, within that pdf file posted above, there is info on how to bench test these electronic EGRs...sometimes, it is good to examine parts...one can always learn something new.

[IanSzgatti]

Back around 1979, when a person I know went to GM tech's school, the instructor said "the days of throwing parts at the problem are over."

What was meant is that one needs to trouble-shoot, and know which part is defective. Needless to say, since 1979 era, mechanics have wasted thousands and thousands of consumer dollars by replacing the wrong parts.

In any event, within that pdf file posted above, there is info on how to bench test these electronic EGRs...sometimes, it is good to examine parts...one can always learn something new.

I agree, and you have definately made a valid point. As a working mechanic, I use an OTC scan system and am also no stranger to the multi-meter... however, whether 1979 or 2079, you come across so many things that eventually you can diagnose certain problems with a high degree of acuracy because you've seen so many, you can take all the variables into account and come to a likely conclusion...
anyways... your not wrong, and im not right.... haha, this fella could go either way and the outcome will be the same... a good repair

[98malibu3.1]

Ok, do any of you know where I can get a new EGR valve for cheap? I have scoured Google and have come up with bupkiss....nada....zero....you get the point. I work at Autozone but even w/my discount, it's still over $130.

[85_Olds_Ciera]

get a new EGR valve for cheap?

Yea...check out my previous post here

The GM part number is what you want to Google: 17091147