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99 3.1 SFI issues

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  • #16
    Originally posted by davida1_hiwaay_net View Post
    Man that is a bummer. It sounded like a mechanical issue on the first video.
    It's hard to tell what is going on by the video file. I couple of good close-up pictures of the valve and spring area would be better.
    Look at the piston and see if there are any nicks in it. If the piston is nicked (indicating valve contact), then the valve is most definately bent.
    Either way, that valve has to come out. If you don't already have one, AutoZone will rent you a spring compressor. Just take that one valvespring off and look at it for breakage. Put the valve back in the head with no spring and spin the stem while looking at the valve head. If it is bent you will be able to tell immediately.
    If the bend is slight, your valve guide is probably OK. With the spring removed, see how bad the valve binds in the guide.
    Ive always just rolled valves on a mirror or glasss(about as flat as you can get) and see if it wobbles. Piston looked A-ok, I was worried about it after running the compression check, also no chunks in the oil pan so the cam has all its lobes, last Q though, should I replace the lifter? If all the other compnents took that kinda beating wont the lifter have collapsed?

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    • #17
      Yeah, replace the lifter. You don't want to have to tear it down again.

      Here's some advice that we ALL need to repeat as often as possible around here. If you've done the LIM job or had the rockers off for ANY reason... then turn your engine over by hand at least two complete turns before you even consider starting it.

      A feller I work with did the LIM job on his Lumina a little while back. I told him that whatever he does- KEEP THEM PUSHRODS IN ORDER. Then I told him just in case to turn the engine over by hand before he cranks it. He did that... lo and behold he had installed one wrong. The engine clunked to a stop as he ratcheted it around, but no damage was done. He swapped the pushrods, made sure it turned ok, and the car has been running fine for a few weeks now. This is a damn expensive fukup that can be avoided with just a little advice from those of us in the 'know'.

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      • #18
        I cleaned the piston tops, and the valve did smack it, there is a very tiny indention, are the slugs cast or forged in these motors? This sucks now after I redo everything ive got to be worried it the piston is going to crap out, maybe not though, ive seen worse and the pistons hold up. The wall looks good(no scaring). Went to the local cash-n-carry found a donor motor got a bunch of bolts and such, got the alt bracket got it home cleaned it up and its broke in the exact same spot ARGHHH. I did find a 260-302 edelbrock air gap intake for 35 bucks and a sway bar for the F150 for 10. Last question, are the headbolts TTY or are they reusable?

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        • #19
          get new ones!
          Andy

          sigpic

          fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
          fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

          62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

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          • #20
            I don't know if those pistons are cast or forged, but I DO know that lots of folks on these boards have had this same problem (piston smacks valve), and have just fixed the head and had no problem with the piston. If it's just a little ding with no sign of cracking or distortion... then I probably wouldn't worry about it. Maybe buff it off smooth to avoid a hot spot if there's much of a burr.

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            • #21
              Thanks for all the help, got the car running friday night.

              pics of the engine and car







              now I can get back to my other project

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