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stupid o2 sensor wire question

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  • stupid o2 sensor wire question

    Can splicing in wire to extend the length of the o2 wire since it's too short for the coupling to connect cause false readings? Someone mentioned it today, and ever since I installed the headers I've been splicing in wire because my o2 bung is farther back so they don't reach. I can't imagine it doing that, but I'm just too tired and stupid today from lack of sleep last night.

    put the new (expensive this time) o2 in last night and already got a code 13 this morning. It was in closed loop for the most part I think.
    Last edited by jeff89fbird; 12-03-2006, 09:30 PM.

  • #2
    Originally posted by jeff89fbird View Post
    Can splicing in wire to extend the length of the o2 wire since it's too short for the coupling to connect cause false readings? Someone mentioned it today, and ever since I installed the headers I've been splicing in wire because my o2 bung is farther back so they don't reach. I can't imagine it doing that, but I'm just too tired and stupid today from lack of sleep last night.

    put the new (expensive this time) o2 in last night and already got a code 13 this morning. It was in closed loop for the most part I think.
    That may be your open/closed loop problem, not the long wire but you moved the O2 sensor farther downstream it isn't heating up. I bet that going to a heated 4 wire O2 will take care of your problem. Anyone else see this as his problem?
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    • #3
      i had this problem before. it wasnt throwing a code 13, but it was falling back into open loop after idling for as little as 15 seconds. i installed a heated o2 sensor and problem solved

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      • #4
        Well, it's not really that much farther back from the Y than I thought, couple extra inches maybe. It's just around the bend from it. The Y is longer than the stock pipe and goes almost to the bend.

        On to trying to get the o2 coupling closer I guess.

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        • #5
          Pulled the o2 and pulled wires out of splice crimps. Tried to solder back together, but it wouldn't stick at all, so I gave in and crimped them together hella tight.

          After much pulling and moving stuff around I got just enough slack in the wiring harness to get the plugs to reach. It's basically a stretch between the ICM plugin and the o2 plug. A few zip-ties keep the o2 wire off the exhaust pipe and the wiring harness from moving too much. I'll have to check it again tomorrow to see if things have moved around at all.

          I'll also test the open/closed loop status when I get to work and it's plenty warmed up.

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          • #6
            Ouch man. Get some solder and shrink tube on there. You should only have to use one splice. You can buy a new blank connector in the parts store to connect to a GM O2 sensor. Solder the pin to the new wire and solder the wire to your old O2 wire.

            I would almost bet your solder job failed because you used thick solder. Go out and buy the real thin stuff. Use a clean tip and tin it with solder before you go to work.
            1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
            1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
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            • #7
              i converted to a heated 02 and i tried sodering the wires without success. it's like a steel wire and can't get it hot enough with a 400 watt iron. it just beads and rolls off. so i crimped the shit out of mine with a inline connector and used dielectric grease to protect it. i put the pliers on the floor and used my body weight to crip things. should be good enough
              Andy

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              • #8
                Silver solder would be the solution.
                Last edited by RednBlack; 12-16-2006, 01:25 PM.
                If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
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                • #9
                  Thats odd. I soldered my wires and they solder soaks in real nice. I also solder all my wires to terminal ends after crinping to prevent any crimp failures.

                  If you are not using the really thin solder you wont have sucess. Be sure it is rosin core aswell.
                  1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
                  1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
                  Because... I am, CANADIAN

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by betterthanyou View Post
                    Thats odd. I soldered my wires and they solder soaks in real nice. I also solder all my wires to terminal ends after crinping to prevent any crimp failures.

                    If you are not using the really thin solder you wont have sucess. Be sure it is rosin core aswell.
                    Word ^. I have not had an issue soldering my wire.
                    Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                    • #11
                      hmmm, have flux and thin flux core silver solder 1/16 inch. i'm not a beginer at soldering. i've made a few circuit boards and had to solder all the electrical components. it's not copper wire, that stuff (copper)i didn't have any prob with.
                      Andy

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                      fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
                      fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

                      62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

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