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  • #16
    hey

    Hey,

    IF YOU HAVE a test light and a Ohm meter I can Find your problem. Auto electric is one of the things I specialize in.

    Regards,
    Dave
    @
    HAYES PERFORMANCE PLUS
    1991 Grand Prix STE
    3.4 DOHC
    1 of 792 Produced
    Extensive Mods Done

    1991 Lumina Z34
    3.4 DOHC
    Getrag 284 5spd
    1 of 30
    Canadian Z34 Models Made with the Getrag 5spd Wahoooo!

    1980 GMC Sierra Classic C25 With 18,000 ORIGINAL MILES!!!!

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    • #17
      I have a cheapie ohm meter. I would have to locate my test light.
      Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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      • #18
        So today I decided after all this rigmarole, that I'd give it a whirl & start it up.


        No SES light.
        W___ T___ F_____________________?

        Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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        • #19
          Maybe sometime this week I'll poke and prod at it some more. It still does what it does.
          Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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          • #20
            Do not forget to check the mem-cal if not fully seated it can as well cause this hard code, I do know that from experiance.Other than that wiring, module and Ecm are the other items to look at.I say memcal 1st cause that is so simple to do o.k.If needed I could scan a flow chart if nessasary and e-mail it!

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            • #21
              I as well relocated mine and what a great idea you cant go wrong here.

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              • #22
                I just swapped the whole ECU/ECM out for a known good one. I am just thinking the length of the wiring harness for the coil/ign. module has something to do with this.
                Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                • #23
                  Let me assure you the lenth of the wiring to the coils and module is not the cause. Also did this problem occur immediatly after the lenthening if so recheck all soldered joints as well could you have miss wired a connection to the wrong wire.If not the problem is elsewhere.My 88 GTU has a 4' splice in it and has been in perfect operation for nearly 5 years.

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                  • #24
                    Thanks for that input! I think you are the only one that directly answered that for me.
                    Now I really am wondering if in the process (like you said) if *maybe* one of the wires were crossed and then soldered to the wrong wires?! It happened right before the relocation. It is also intermediate, not a constant solid hard code. Its likes the lottery, one day you start it to goto the gas station it will be off, get back in it to go home it pop on.

                    I just have to find out what wires go where for the ignition module harness.
                    Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                    • #25
                      All you need to do is grab a hold of the harness at both ends of the splice then starting on either end of factory harness say for instance one of the factory wires is blue with a red tracer then follow it through the splice to the other factory end and it should run into to another blue wire with another red tracer.It can seem difficult but its really quite simple, I do this for a living.Just go one at a time.Im just curious when this happens do you lose any power?

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                      • #26
                        By the way I think I missed the part where you said It happened right before the relocate was this a typo or it happened truly before you spliced?

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                        • #27
                          It happened before the relocate.
                          Also, the same type of plug with longer wires was used to extend the wires, but the new (3.1MPFI) plug has different color wires and the old wiring plug is long gone. So I'll have to goto the junkyard and snip the old style plug with wires so I can color match this mess.
                          Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                          • #28
                            You got it! But that doesnt cure the before problem. Did you double check the prom that it is properly seated with no bent pins, and swap good known mod.Also for haha's swap in different knock sensor.It may sound crazy but I believe this happened to me along time ago thinking code 43 was the only code for ks it blindsided me due to internal intermmitant short.

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                            • #29
                              Oh yeahh I put a new ks in. The pin looked good and the memcal clicked* when it seated it the ECU.
                              43 is still set. I even disconnected the B+ for over 15 minutes.
                              Thanks!
                              Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                              • #30
                                Fixed!
                                Somewhere in from the ECU to the bulkhead there was a break in a wire. Must have been tugged to hard at one point and time & finally let loose. All I have to say is that have better been it. I reran a new wire for it.
                                Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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