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Manual says I need a special tool. Is this true, or is this a case where a block of wood + hammer will suffice? Ok, maybe that isn't a good method, but what are acceptable ways to install it?
Thanks
'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
Yes, balancer to the crankshaft. Far as I know they're all the same, but the engine I'm working on is a 3.4L (iron head). Engine has a 3.1 intake, installed in an Isuzu Trooper (not that it matters).
Those huge 3.4 brackets will be going away once I source a set of 3.1 brackets.
'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
Don't hammer it on, as damage to the crank and/or bearings can occur. You should be able to place the balancer on, insert the bolt, and move it to its final position by tightening down on the bolt.
I didn't think that bolt was long enough, but apparently it is. I have it cranked down as far as it will go, hope that does the trick. Now I can't find a belt that fits, which is odd because I took one off when I started the project...
'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
I always avoid using the bolt. In some cases the balancer has less interference than others, and the bolt will work and wont strip out. However the tool is cheep and universal for all motors plus its a puller and an installer so the tool is a great investment. A block of wood and a hammer should only be use for that initial seating of the balancer but don't sit there and smack is all the way home.
I popped it with a rubber mallet a couple times is all, then took it in with the bolt. I put a little oil on the threads to cut the resistance there.
'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
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