Inside the 4t60e

[3400-95-Modified]

Here we go...





This is what happnes when the roll pin in the diff for your spider gears breaks....

[3400-95-Modified]

It looks connected... but


This is why I bought the Diff lube tube fix... it always falls out.


Pump removed



Valve body on trans.

[3400-95-Modified]

Valve body removed




Tim to check chain slop...




Well 1/8 clearance means time to replace it.... Wonder what it means when it actually touches the case... ITS SHOT!!!111!!


Innards all out... Hope I can get them all back in.

[3400-95-Modified]

The diff I may not be able to use... Has quite a bit of slop in the planet gears.


Had to purchase one of these too... 4th gear input shaft... I have a spare but I don't trust that one either. Here is a comparison of the splines.

[3400-95-Modified]

If anyone wants more detailed pics of a specific part let me know, I also allow these to be used in a FAQ if anyone wants to or in the gallery. I'll keep trucking and keep you updated with the progress.

[Azrael]

In your ventures did you find any ports that could be used for an auxiliary trans. temp gauge? I know the 4T40-E's and 4T65-E's do.

[tractorman]

Where did you buy your parts? Is there a list of updates that ought to be done on 4T60-e's? I imagine I'll have to rebuild the ol' corsica's trans. someday.

[3400-95-Modified]

Bought stuff from various places... but Transmissionpartsusa.com is where I got all of my valve body fixes that I applied to my valve body and diff tube fix and what not.

They have alot of parts but best things to do is the trans go shift correction kit, the sonnax TCC valves, there is a guy on e-bay selling reman 4t60e valve bodies with these fixed applied. ~$130 not bad for a reman. But I also did the chain, other biggest thing is the 1-2 roller sprag, they always burn up, The final drive interior shaft bushings, if the diff lube tube comes undone you can burn these bushings up good... I cooked the ones in my old trans and one in this one due to the tube coming off. And another big hitter is the reverse reaction shell, get the hardened one.

[3400-95-Modified]

More pics

[3400-95-Modified]

Clutch pack apart.















There is one extra black steel plate that i could probably add to the top of this pack to tighten it up, but since I know nothing about adding clutch packs or the direct result of that I'm going to just put it back the way it came apart.

[tractorman]

That's probably a safe bet. I've calibrated enough powershift transmissions in heavy equipment to know about "fill time". When a controller (or a valve body) is set up to shift clutches in a planetary transmission, it has to be calibrated to take into account the amount of time it takes for the trans. pressure to "fill" and engage each clutch pack. This would be set from the factory in an automotive application- tightening up a clutch pack is gonna make that transmission do things that the controller isn't expecting. You might get lucky and end up with a firmer shift, or you might get UNlucky and end up with TWO elements engaged simultaneously for a split second... which will obviously cause problems.

Some people tighten up clutch packs that way with good success, but it's generally in race applications where they've done it before and know how it'll respond. I'd say unless you're absolutely sure about what you're doing, it's best to leave it stock.

[3400-95-Modified]

Bushings done teflon rings done... hose clamps work as resizers pretty good... clutches and bands soaked and all put together. Waiting on diff, and driven gear, since I had the wrong one.... anyone need a 35 tooth 125 tranny driven gear????

This is how she sits now.

Valve body to channel plate assy, ball bearing install spacer plate and gaskets.









All innards in







Ionly put the parts in and out like 3 times to make sure I had everything in, and for some reason I couldn’t find one thrust bearing that goes between the reaction carrier assy and reaction sun gear drum... I have no idea on how I would have lost it because that part never left the basement, where others went on a trip to work to get cleaned an bushings installed. luckily I brought all of my other parts from my last rans and I found the bearing I needed... Still in good condition so I used that one. I am hoping to god that the bearing was not left out in the first rebuild of this... if it was, I'm very surprised.

[3400-95-Modified]

The last of the pics....













The needle bearing in the brand new 4th clutch hub I bought failed, which made my CV joint slop around and wreck the seal. Trans is out of the car once again and waiting for a new 4th hub, and seal and a new converter... that 2300 was not a 2300, it had to be much higher than that, It felt like it was slipping all the way up to 3800 min... so I ordered another stock converter. But on a good note, the 1-2 shift was very firm and quick, everything else worked as planned, and the gearing and LSD combo was a dream come true. It should be done middle of next week hopefully. Parts are coming Monday and I should be able to finish assy and get in in then... but we'll see.

Keep on chuggin!

[gpse3400]

Wow.. I rebuilt my 4t60e also. about 2 years ago. took me 3 tries but I got that bitch to work and work very well. Those pics bring back lots of memories. My 1st failure was with the 3rd roller clutch('93 used a roller clutch instead of a common sprag with the input clutch), the return springs for the rollers were missing, and I didn't think anytihng of it, it craked the whole roller clutch housing, but luckily all the debris was contained in the input hosing. So I cleaned it up and used older clutches that were still good and tried again, only this time I flip flopped the snap rings for the 3rd clutch with the input clutch.. The transmission would actully grind trying go into 4th gear ... The funny thing was that th ecomputer knew somthing was up and it would down shift to 3rd.if I forced it would grind. That last and final thing was the oil pump shaft. Common failure, not that I knew it then but the surface wasn't that great looking. Well it tore up the support bearing and kinda chewed up the pump some and I lost pressure. so I swapped that stuff out and it was great ever since. all of that happpend in a span of 3 months. My first attempt but I never gave up. I though the best thing I did for the transmission was change out the drive chain, my trans would give a soft whine in th elower gears, sounded like a crown vic! Anyeways my garage shows what I did to mine. My used to shift vert firm but it's more broken in and only when i'm hard on it, it will bang into gears appropiately. I ran a phantom grip becasue thought out all of this I was montiering my FDR and and yeah i was wearing them out, getting tired of that. WowmI thikn I must've bought like 3 reuibld kits, two full onmes and 1 gasket set.. If you want youe 3-4 shift firrmed you might want to shimm up the 3-4 accumulator before you put it all back together.

[3400-95-Modified]

I may shim up the 2-3 modulator if anything because the 3-4 is pretty good already. That has always been firm for some reason. Since my last rebuild anyways.

But I already bought a new roller sprag bearing when I built the thing because that was the first failure on my original trans, So thats avoided, and I'll double check the pump shaft but I think its good to go. As far as the pump itself, I put in new vaines, and side pivot pin, so that should work fine.

I'm running a brand new drive sprocket and chain and a slightly used driven sprocket, so when all done I'm expecting some whine... that will be sweet