95 Olds CutlassTrans, 96 Lumina 3.1-3.4 swap

[nixtux]

Perhaps a stupid question, however, my Cutlass has a 3 speed transmisison. Is there going to be a issue swapping in a same year but four speed?

I haven't been able to find much info on the interent, or perhaps I'm looking in the wrong places. Also any links regarding 3.1 transmission swaps would be helpful. I have only done a transmission swap on a Intrepid. Which was a job to say the least.

Additionally I'm buying a 96' Lumina and am thinking about doing a 94-95 LQ1 swap as a winter project (no sense having a three car garage that's empty =p)

Any links regarding info would be appriciated. Thanks

[3100 MPFI]

Seeing you have a 3 speed, I am going under the assumption that your car is a Cutlass CIERA, and not a SUPREME.

There could be some issues with mounting the transmission, but seeing your car was offered with a 4-speed, you can probably easily do it.

You will need to be sure that the transmission can be mounted the same way (they changed the side pan of the 4T60-E in 1994 from the original stamped steel to an aluminum one). Which pan does your car need?

You might also have to get brackets.

I am swapping a 1996 4T60-E into my 1988 Cutlass Supreme. I HAD a 1993 4T60-E in there, but they are mounted different. In order to use the 1996 tranny, I have to swap out the bracket on the subframe. Will you need to do the same thing?

Your best bet would be to look for pics of a 4-speed tranny for your car (check EBAY) and see if the lumina tranny looks the same or not.

You will also need the axles, and depending on the engine you use, you will need the other brackets for it (that hold the tranny to the engine).

The 3.4 DOHC swap, I don't know how that will work on your car. If it is a Cutlass Supreme, it can be done, but a CIERA, I don't know. I am more into the 3400/3500 swap. If you have the 3100 already, they are pretty much drop in.

[nixtux]

It is a Cutlass Supreme actually. I could swear it was a three speed, but it is a 4T60-E, or at least it says it on the transmission pan. Come to think of it, that is quite weird. I won't claim to be a car buff, but I never noticed it shift passed third anyway. Also the RPM's were always a bit higher than the 94' Cutlass Supreme I had. It would appear I was mistaken.

55MPH was a solid 2k RPM while my 94' would run around 1800 RPM's.

*EDIT*

Ironically, I've had the car for almost three years and put about 40k on her with little trouble. Perhaps it just shifted that smooth that I didn't notice it shift into fourth and I mistakenly took it for OD. I'm in awe, I would go and drive her but she's dead in the water until the new tranny is installed.

I believe the torque converter died cause it just stopped dead and I coasted home (I was 1/4 of a mile away.) After I noticed a strange knock around the transmission area. I'm hoping it's just the pump and replacing the transmission/torque converter will do the trick.

Plus the old girl could use a new starter cause she sometimes doesn't start (it scretches). However simply turning the key to the off position and trying again resolves it. The back struts are shot and the ABS sensor on the passenger caliper, the wire somehow got cut (I believe it's a sensor, I'm not sure yet.) Also the spark plugs are toast. But ironically, with all that was wrong with her, she ran like a f'n champ. Three years the A/C has worked (It'll need a couple shots this summer,) awesome heat, and she never stranded me ever.

The 94 was the same way. Less than $1,000 put into the car in 5 years and over 120,000 miles. Then the transmission went out. I love 3100's and 3800's heh

[3100 MPFI]

If your car is a 1995, then it will have the tranny with the PWM solenoid. It is made to make lockup really smooth, and you don't feel it.

It could also be that you lost 4th gear.

The twin cam will drop right in, but you will need to beef up your suspension.

I would personally go for a 3500.

[nixtux]

Clearly the fourth gear is really smooth. I'm rather impressed cause I've never felt it. I noticed a moderate drop in RPM's and that was really it. I assumed it was simply the OD.

So be it, the ol' Green Girl is simply a smooth bitch.

[nixtux]

The 3500's will drop into a 96+ Lumina? The LX5 was a alright motor when you get down too it. I assume you're referring to the LX5 anyway.

Then again the L67 is pretty well documented and a awesome motor.

Who knows, I know this winter there is going to be a motor swap done on a Lumina ... Just not sure what motor yet.

[3100 MPFI]

The 3800 SC engine (referred to here as the buick boat anchor), is even heavier than the 3.4 DOHC.

I don't know about the newer engine RPO codes, so I just go by the names.

The buick engine is a 90* V6 and is not really covered here. Just as any of these engine, the buick engine has it's flaws as well (catching on fire being one of them).

The 3500 and even the 3900 are pretty much drop in engines. They bolt right up to the existing tranny and motor mounts. The main issues have been running them, but they are getting more and more info every day, and I think several have then running nicely.

You can even get a lot of power out of a 3100 (like I did), if you do your research.

Here is a pic of the 3100 I swapped into my 1988 Cutlass Supreme just before I blew it up (it was 100% my fault that it blew up. I didn't fix an oil leak that I caused and lost all my oil in houston 70 miles from home).

[nixtux]

I was thinking about modding a 3.1 but I haven't done too much research.

The 3.1 is a solid motor so perhaps I'll research it more. Any suggested starting points?

Thanks

[3100 MPFI]

you have to look at the long term first. If you ever want to add turbo, or supercharger down the line, you have to keep that in mind.

I didn't keep that in mind when I did mine, so I built mine with high compression (12:1 area) so I can NEVER add any form of forced induction without risk or really messing it up.

Sit down and figure out what you want long term and let that help guide you.

[nixtux]

My Cutlass is a L82 (160HP 9.5/1 ratio.) I counted out Turbo as a solution because the compression is already pretty high. But Intrepids (2nd gen) have a 9/1 and can be turbo'd. Also I would prefer something other than turbo, but then again it would pretty sweet. I was thinking of using a supercharger, but I'm not sure if there is enough clearance under the hood.

My goal would be to get it upward to 200-220HP at the crank. I was happy with the performance of my 96' Intrepid. Anymore power I would probably have killed myself.

12:1 --- wow that's insane. What's that get the 3.1 scooting at? How much does that affect City/Highway mileage? I typically average around 18-20 (can be less if traffic is bad) city and 28/9@70MPH highway.

[3100 MPFI]

Mine ran on a custom chip setup. I was getting about 25-30 city, and 45-50 highway.

Supercharger can be done, and 200-220 crank HP is not that hard with the 3100 in NA form. I would consider it just for the weight savings. The buick engine and the 3.4 DOHC are going to add quite a bit of weight to your car.

Several people are putting turbo's on the 3100/3400 with the stock compression.

I didn't get to go to the track before I blew it up. Untuned it was pretty inpressive, and on the highway, there were very few cars that could touch it.

[nixtux]

Getting ready to start the transmission swap and last night I put the car in Neutral and pushed it to a better location in my garage. There is a strange noise, like a clicking in and around the transmission area when it moves.

I was wondering if that is something you have heard or heard of? Cause I've had bad transmissions before, and never heard anything like it. Any advice you may have would be apprciated. Anything that I may need to watch for during swap - or replace other than the transmission.

My original thought was the torque converter went which in turn burned out the pump (which, I think the noise may be normal given that scenario maybe?) But I have limited knowledge on automobiles. I'm more a computer nerd but I have keen interest in vehicles so I attempt to do most of my own work on my vehicles (which to date has been quite successful.)

Thanks

Mine ran on a custom chip setup. I was getting about 25-30 city, and 45-50 highway.

Supercharger can be done, and 200-220 crank HP is not that hard with the 3100 in NA form. I would consider it just for the weight savings. The buick engine and the 3.4 DOHC are going to add quite a bit of weight to your car.

Several people are putting turbo's on the 3100/3400 with the stock compression.

I didn't get to go to the track before I blew it up. Untuned it was pretty inpressive, and on the highway, there were very few cars that could touch it.

[3100 MPFI]

Clicking noises could be the axles. Check the boots on them to see if they are ripped.

Might have a minor issue with the cooler liners. Also, pay attention to what year you replace it with. I think that mostly applies to the older years. Since the one you are installing is newer, there should be minimal issues.

[nixtux]

Boots/Axles look good and it only happens when I "push" it. It also happens if I start the car (during idle) and when if I put it in gear it clicks and makes another crazy loud noise that is a cross between clicking and screaming almost. Quite wretched.

And it doesn't move when in gear, simply makes a louder noise. My main concern is is if there could be damage to the flexplate (I think that's what you bolt the TC to.)

Is there a way a bad torque converter can destroy anything that the tranny bolts to? I'm a bit timid since i've never heard a transmission make any noise, let alone not move. But then again I don't exactly know what's wrong, I simply put pieces together based on what I do know. If your TC is bad it burns your pump which destroys your transmission.

Also I found a 1995 (Grand Prix) Tranny which my Cutlass is 95' - so I don't see any issues per se. And the number match up.

Clicking noises could be the axles. Check the boots on them to see if they are ripped.

Might have a minor issue with the cooler liners. Also, pay attention to what year you replace it with. I think that mostly applies to the older years. Since the one you are installing is newer, there should be minimal issues.

[3100 MPFI]

The noise is probably something gone horribly wrong inside the tranny.

If you are pulling the tranny, then you can easily check the flex plate. It will be right there connected to the torque converter. The torque converter attaches to the flexplate with 3 bolts, and the flexplate connects to the engine with 6 bolts.

I think EVERY case of a damaged flexplate that I have seen, the car would not start at all. If teeth were missing, then the dead area would make the starter miss, and result in a no start, or if it was cracked, it would lock up the engine and not turn at all. Does not mean, however, that there isn't damage. Just one of those things that you will have to check while you are there.

Don't worry too much about it. If it is bad, a new one is about $50.00 One thing I would recommend, is once you get the tranny lines off, flush out the tranny cooler (goes into the radiator) before connecting the new tranny. If you have METAL SHAVINGS in the tranny fluid, you don't want to get them into your new tranny.