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3500V6 4X4 jimmy

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  • 34blazer
    replied
    Updates?

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  • 34blazer
    replied
    3500T would be too unique though

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  • Mars
    replied


    I'm still kind of undecided about the engine.

    I bet this 2.8L would run for years. I Might just rock that for now. I'll have the 4.88 gears so it will do 60MPH easy I bet...

    But at the same time, I'm almost done the truck (besides engine swap) and it's only January. I have 4 months left of shop time before I want the thing to be ready... Can do a 3500 easily in 4 months.

    I will decided spur of the moment I guess.

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  • 34blazer
    replied
    I HATE YOU! NO REALLY....I HATE YOU! Ive had my damn blazer since 2006 and you've had this thing for a few months and got all this work done, and a few months more you will have a 3500T lifted blazer. My shitbox is still collecting dust waiting for its day!

    Nice work Mars!

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  • Mars
    replied
    RBP logos don't really belong on 1,000$ ghetto booty fab rigs, but regardless, I thought it was hilarious. Some of my buddies have these lifted F350 trucks all decked out and I wanted to be funny. LOL.




    Here is the front, completed. I think I'm happy with the pitman / drag link angle, it's not at much an angle at all.. It's a ZJ pitman arm. I set the caster to 6* and welded the perches on. If you compare this to above where I had the YJ arm, this looks MUCH better.





    My rear fixed reservoir Billsteins all mounted up.



    Got the set from a local jeeper :



    I extended the wheelbase another 3/4" to make sure my tires don't rub the firewall. I will chop the front fender about 3". rather chop the front of the fender rather then the firewall myself...



    last but not least my gun control bumper sticker.



    Still a ton of crap left to do..

    Weld on front shock hoops, front shocks, brake lines, need a custom front driveshaft, some interior stuff left.

    It's coming right along though.

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  • Mars
    replied
    I need to make a new trans X-member to clear the front driveshaft anyways... I already cut my stock one in 3 pieces cause I couldn't remove it after i welded the slider blocks in... lol.

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  • Guest
    Guest replied
    Naw, it's not the dizzy that's an issue, it's the driver side firewall and the head on that side, they are only about 3/4 to 1" apart IIRC.

    I would personally prefer getting shafts shortened, than screwing around with all new mounts for the engine and trans. I realize you need to make the engine mounts, but leaving the trans cross member alone saves that effort. I always find that when I try to modify something else to get an off the shelf part to fit I end up modifying that off the shelf part anyway, or I'm just not happy with the over all fit.

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  • Mars
    replied
    Originally posted by The_Raven View Post
    I don't think you'll get 2" of movement backwards without serious modification to the firewall. It's particularly tight on the driver side.
    DAMN, that would of been just soo convinient.

    I didn't even look at the truck today, had other crap to do.

    I don't really want to mod out the firewall, but I may look at it because the custom shafts will be $$$$.

    I figured since I won't use a distributor, I may have been able to nudge it back a little.

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  • Guest
    Guest replied
    I don't think you'll get 2" of movement backwards without serious modification to the firewall. It's particularly tight on the driver side.

    Looks awesome. It makes me want to keep my Dakota and go through with the similar plans I had for it, though the engine wouldn't have spark plugs if I did.

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  • geldartb
    replied
    looks nice in the pic of it sitting outside in the snow.

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  • Mars
    replied
    more detailed pics of the sliders install.

    What I did first this was weld 2 pipes in between the sliders, to assure they are square, and to assure I have the 31.5" center to center.

    After that was done, I centered the whole thing under the truck..

    You can see the 2 grey pipes that I used as my jig, here :





    side profile :



    Now, once everything was square, and welded in there, I cut my jig pipes off..





    The driver's side slider is inside the frame roughly 2" and the pass side sits inside the frame a little over 3.5"

    here is a pic of the JB4X4 braket crossover steering thing, with the stock S10 box and a YJ pitman arm. I am not sure I like the angle, I have a ZJ drop pitman arm that I may try on there, but it might hit the diff on uptravel, not sure I will have to flex it out and see if there is an issue.




    Annnnd, of course with the 35's...





    Now, I am going to start pulling the old 2.8 tomorrow...

    My idea is to push the 3500 back about 2". couple reasons for this...

    1. My front XJ Cherokee driveshaft is a little bit too long, if I can push the drivetrain back a little touch, I can get it to work, as is. $$ saving
    2. the rear driveshaft is too short now because of the added lift, and the extra 2" would put me right back to where I need to be..

    If I can push the motor back I will be very happy. I have to make cusom motor mounts anyways, as well as a new transmission Xmember... so if my idea works, I will be quite happy.

    Just not sure about firewall clearance at this point, i will have a better look see when I am in there tomorrow.

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  • Mars
    replied
    Factory stereo only had 2 lame speakers in the dash... Got these grills on THE EBAY... cheap.



    JB4X4 Hi-Steer braket.



    Got the sliders welded in there. Popped the axle in. I love the stance. I ended up with a 1.75" lift block in the rear. (it's hard to tell by the pics but the rear is about 3/4" higher then the front.)







    Tons of work left but getting the thing on 4 wheels was nice. Need to do steering and set the pinion angles, ect. shocks, brakes, driveshafts...

    most importantly 3500V6 TURBO swap.

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  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    Those sliders are an interesting concept. I would be worried about the springs hanging and binding in high flex situations.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

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  • Mars
    replied
    small update :

    Got the 8.8 in there, obviously didn't weld in the spring perches yet, I want the front axle in there before I figure out the pinion angle..



    conversion Ujoint required :



    I need to get the front done so I can see if I need a rear lift block to keep it level..





    High pinion D30 :



    All cleaned up :



    Front diff removed, rest of ifs crap cut off :



    Liquid Iron Industries leaf spring sliders, mocked up. These replace conventional shackles, can't wait to see how they perform.

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  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    Originally posted by Mars View Post
    I just need a extension cord.
    That was the first thing I made sure I had... No way was I going to wire more than one 50 amp plug in my garage... that wire is a PAIN to get in place.

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