ms2 antilag/ launch control/ flatshift

[Driver_10]

I want to mod my (MS2357-C) MS2/ 3.57 PCB for flat-shift and launch control. So far, my MS has been modified for GM HEI ign control, flex fuel, boost control (output through js11) and knock sensor input (through pad13 to js4).

The instructions said to build a circuit to supply reference input (which can be built to either trigger on + or - input depending on how you build it) then it said to jumper input to JS7 and to set the proper calibrations

So, the idea I have in my head is to...

Step A: build this circuit for "low input" on a separate cheese board (since my 3.57 pcb has no proto area)


Step B: connect the two switch wires to a clutch pressure switch.

Step C: connect this other end of the switch wire to pin10 of the MS2 daughterboard (PEO/ JS7) for input.

A quick visual of what I plan...

(note: The picture is abstract. The circuit is grounded (-) through the MS2 and NOT the frame of the car. It was just easier to draw this way)

The instructions were garbled together with steps for a "map-switching" mod, so Im not 100% if this configuration is correct. Have any of your experimented with this before?

[Driver_10]

EDIT: Doesnt look like Ill be using Pin10 because that will require some ms2 daughter board mods, that quite frankly I dont want to do. However, It looks like Ill be eble to use pin15 (PE1) instead. Im gonna head to radio shack and get some "bits" to start soldering.

[Driver_10]

I went ahead and finished the circuit. The megamanual didn't specify what the current limit was on the 2k2 (If by 2k2, they meant a 2,200 ohm resistor, then Im gravy). I selected a 2.2k transistor (couldnt find any resistor marked 2k2) with a 1/4 watt rating and went with that. Heres the final switch input circuit with the wire-color legend...



As you can see, I trimmed the excess cheese board away and left a hole for mounting it to the pcb. I tried to make it as small as possible to help make it more resistant to vibration. Ive still got to put on some heat shrink to help further isolate the wires a bit. Im gonna put one large piece of heat-shrink on the circuit to prevent the solderd wires on the bottom from making contact with the rest of the board.

[Driver_10]

Ok... so now I have installed the circuit onto the PCB. I found that it was just as easy to mount it as it was as opposed to making it bulky with heat-shrink. It made a pretty tidy fit



The switch wires for launch control now occupy pins 14 and 15 of the DB15 socket for a nice clean install. Im still waiting for my peak-n-hold driver pcb'c to arrive, so Ill post pics as I build those.

[Driver_10]

I emailed the guys at DIYautotune to have them double check my circuitry. They said that I needed to remove the R1 resistor from the motherboard. (Its been circled in red)



Afterwards, I moved the input wire from the top of the 15th pin of the daughterboard and soldered it to the JS12 socket on the daughterboard. (which is visibled on the board diagram as well). After a few corrections, here is the final circuit.

[Driver_10]

With mods on the MS now complete, Im moving on to assembling the peak-n-hold driver cards.
Just arrived in the mail today


Here are the parts that came with the kits.


First thing I notice is the lack of directions. I emailed the seller this evening and I haven't got a reply yet. No big problem, the bags and PCB are somewhat labled so I can still get most of the soldering out of the way.


The logic chip, resistors and capacitors went on without an problems


Throw in some happy little diodes...


and now its nearly finished with the addition of the IGBP transistors...


Now for problem #2... The heat-sinks were not included in the kit as well, so I emailed the seller and am still waiting for a reply. I was hoping on having both of these drivers finished by today, but it doesn't look like a reality.

[Driver_10]

OK. I found my directions in the wrapping paper that came with the box. (I wonder what dumb-ass through those in the trash? :P)
Anyway, I had two MOSFET's switched when I double-checked. I made the necessary corrections and finished installing the last five transistors (I did put those MOSFET's under some pretty severe heat when removing them. Hopefully I didnt kill them when making the swich)

All thats left is to make a heat-sink bar and to mount the IGBP's on it to finish the card assembly.


Ive also got to get the case and end-plates drilled for the wires. Heres the card mounted in the case...

[Driver_10]

Two new developements...

My relay panel arrived in the mail, and I finished assembling it last night

(good stuff )

And for the bad... Turns out that my "improved" heat sink didnt save 3 of my transistors that I tested. They somehow got toasted while soldering them onto the board. Im going to remove and replace all 22 transistors to be certain, other wise they will totally hydro-lock the engine when I go to start it.... (F*ck)


Otherwise, Ill probably get started on assembling the full control panel for the car later this weekend.

[Jonpro03]

That looks great! It's been a while since I've messed with any megasquirt stuff. Brings back memories

[Driver_10]

That looks great! It's been a while since I've messed with any megasquirt stuff. Brings back memories

Thanks... Im actually doing two project simultaneously. Im building the engine management for my roomates car too. He's installing a turbocharged 5.3l vortec LM7 motor in his third gen. Im trying to talk him into purchasing an MS3 + expansion board and a 3.57 PCB. I want to use his project as a Guinea-pig (er.. umm *cough*) Im mean, further develop my understanding the basics of retrofitting megasquirt to an LS motor. I would like to swap a 5.3l into my old cherokee, so this would be a good learning experience for that I think.