well got it to datalog while driving and here they, are the one that is idle for some reason isn't idling high like it was looks about right. The other 2 are wot runs, going by the o2 volts it is staying around 14.7, and I guess the knock counts is coming from the headers leaking which I disabled it for now. Does anything else look wrong? Does the wot afr need adjusting and isn't that done in the PE? how can I show them it says invalid file?
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got them, and did I read somewhere that I can't tune wot afr due to using the stock NB 02 sensor?Last edited by 923.4v6; 10-16-2008, 09:38 AM.
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It doesn't read the O2 sensor when you go WOT. And command AFR is probably what youre seeing the 14.7 from, which is what it hopes to achieve, but is really a useless # to datalog.
Superdave or others can help with tuning.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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wow, something's not right. your 02 hardly ever changes, and you are getting knock, but it doesn't say how much retard. my 02 is all over the place when not at WOT or closed loop. my 02 also fluctuates some at WOT, but the minute i let off it goes wild again. did you lock your BLM? your INT is very consistent, so something isn't right somewhere, or you have the perfect tune that we all dream of. are you sure your not in closed loop?
using a NB to tune...ehh...you can to a point. you can get some idea of what's happening but it's not accurate. though, if you are at WOT and have a NB reading of .400-.600 you can be sure it's running rather lean. how lean, well, it's your guess. the right way is to use a NB. it's way more accurate. i have just a NB and have played with leaning the WOT out, then making it too rich. both of which were an AFR of 2 points above and below stock and Ben's chip. either way i lost power but the 02 didn't really change drastically to indicate just how rich or lean. before i made changes my WOT 02 was .750-.800. now it's .840-.920. yeah i now have more gas, but what AFR?Last edited by torq455; 10-18-2008, 04:43 PM.Andy
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fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.
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Tomorrow I,m going to change the o2 sensor out to a heated one, I have laying around, and change out my header gaskets to fix the exhaust leak and see if thats whats wrong with the knocks. The motor doesn't have a knock in it. I changed the knock retared to 0 when I done the logs so I could see how it was running.
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Now I have tried 3 different o2 sensors, current one is the heated one from my 3500, and 1 a different ecm. The o2 signal coming from the o2 reads good using a digital multimeter it just does show it in tp. Could it be where I took the chip out of the memcal and not have the ostrich not have the ostrich connected good? And is there a way to rewire the o2 signal to the data port on the car? I have also made up other bins using different mask and they also showed the same. If you notice on the 8d log it looks to change good untill I gave it gas and it was over.Last edited by 923.4v6; 11-28-2008, 11:07 AM.
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first off... in the 8d file, your coolant temp wasn't warm enough to enable closed loop. second, your tps voltage is way high. at idle it should be between .40-.60, not 1.5 volts. it also seems like the throttle snaps down to the right voltage, but then goes back up to the 1.5 V, almost looks like it's binding or the cable is stopping the throttle close point.
can't see the coolant temp on the A1 file. your BLM and INT looked locked at 128. the INT should change SOME, even if you have a perfect tune. to me, that shows it's still in open loop. AFR shouldn't change either..well, not up and down as it idles. ie. if AFR is at say at 13:1, then as it warms up, it will slowly climb to 14.7:1 and stay there until PE mode.
BAWX file: still too cold for closed loop, so the computer won't see the 02 and make adjustments. timing is very low. should be more around 20 degs. you may have a heated 02, but the programming has a set timer of when to allow closed loop. i converted to a heated 02, and it took the same amount of time to go into closed loop.
try to see why the tps reads so high and jumps around when you tap it. i'm guessing the ECM sees idle rpm and kPa as what it should be, but tps volts don't match up with either, so the ECM may be defaulting to open loop to "get by".Andy
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fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.
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It may not have been in closed loop yet, didn't think to look. But it does the same thing when its in C/L. You may be on something with the tps since I have seen it in the past flicker from open to closed when I gave it gas. Would a bad tps cause the voltage problem and it is also a 70mm tb from a 97 350 could it also be a problem? By the way the 8d and bawx was just used to see if they acted the same on the o2 volts.
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the tps sure could be the problem. i had a bad one once. didn't have a datalog, but it made the auto TCC act up. sometimes it'd lock, sometimes not, other times it would stay locked longer than it should have. never got a code either. replace the tps with a vehicle specific one. borg-warner or a GM. and make sure the throttle blade is open just enough so it won't get stuck in the throttle bore. then adjust the tps, if needed, so the idle voltage is about .50. i also wonder if the cable is holding the throttle open for idle too.Andy
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fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.
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ok, I checked the tps volts using a digital multimeter it showed .81 at idle. I adjusted the throttle blade to where it just doesn't stick and adjusted the tps volts to .495 ( i split the differance of .49 and .50) it goes up to 4.38 at wide open. It seems to have helped the o2 volts while at idle but goes into default when giving gas. I noticed in aldl flags in tuner pro under important stuff the learn control stays disabled all the time is this correct? And is the tps volts reading correct now? It also shows fan1 being false is that due to the fan not running at the present time?Attached Files
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tps volts are good now. i didn't see the tps % bounce when you let off the gas. fan = false or no in programming means the switch is off. learn enable will not happen 100% of the time, and it has to be in closed loop to do so. oh, and NEVER set KR to 0. set it to 15 degs and leave it. if you get detonation, the ECM won't reduce timing, so the damaging detonation will continue. for the next data file, it would be helpful to have the engine at full operating temp. that will help to rule out a few things.
open loop 02 readings aren't right. in open loop the ECM goes to a specific fuel map for the inputs it gets. the 02 should very mildly fluctuate, not jump around wildly. mine stays in the 950 mV range until closed loop. your idle really needs to be at 1300 rpm at coolant temp of 135 degs?
closed loop INT has at least changed from last time. that indicates the tps changes helped. i still don't see why the 02 goes to 446 mV with throttle. can you post your bin and xdf files so we can look? maybe a setting in there somewhere needs to be changed or added. Ben had me add 'Idle BPW as a function of Air Flow' in the Flags/Switches. see if you have that in there. we'll keep looking and get this figured out. not to worry. it's a very time consuming process. mine was running ok before tunine, now it's running great, but can be better yet, and i've spent weeks on it.Andy
sigpic
fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.
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here's everything i'm using. I set the idle to 1300 across the board. And one more thing I took my factory chip out of the memcal and put in a socket to hook my ostrich to, could it the problem?Last edited by 923.4v6; 11-30-2008, 03:28 PM.
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your base pulse constant vs. desired EGR at 0% is waaaayy low. stock should be 224. looks like you disabled the EGR? if so, you only need to change the value at 0%. if you have bigger injectors, then you want to decrease that number, but i don't think it should be that low. your injector flow rate can effect things too. it's at 16.71 lbs/hr. change that to what # injector you have now. also add 'Idle BPW as a function of Air Flow' in the Flags/Switches. i'll have to look at the values in the XDF file i have so i can tell you what to put where. otherwise you can adjust your idle VE all to 0 and it won't effect the idle. also change your ' max vehicle speed' to 3 mph. that should match your other max and min thresholds. in your 'constants/scalars, you are missing a few parameters.
did you notice your coolant temp didn't get over 122 degs F? if the coolant doesn't get hot enough, the ECM won't go into or stay in closed loop. make sure your stat is not stuck open, and replace the CTS. i'm assuming here that the engine is nice and hot.
here's the bin i was talking about. see what this does for ya. you can use different XDF files with your bin's.Attached FilesAndy
sigpic
fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.
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