Burning oil, oil return line or turbo seals?

[IsaacHayes]

Turbo related problem. Grandma has a 1988 Chrysler New Yorker Turbo.

On start up it doesn't burn any oil. Let it get warm and then it slowly starts smoking out. If you drive it a lot then it will burn black.

I'm thinking this is turbo related problem... I see a red hose I'm guessing thats the oil return line?

Is this a symptom of clogged oil return line, or blown turbo seals? Or could be either one?

Any help is appreciated! (she took it to a shop they said they wanted $3k and the engine was shot. It sounds great and doesn't seem like valve seals, as that would be bad on start up then get better I'd think...)

[1988GTU]

Black is a rich condition, blue smoke would be oil. Sure it is not the Oxygen sensor acting faulty?

[IsaacHayes]

It's oil. Blue whitish smoke. I didn't see it turn black but they said if you let it run long enough sitting there it turns black....

[1988GTU]

I would check to make sure the oil return hose is not collapsed and make sure the turbo shaft play doesn't move in and out. If the shaft moves in and out excessively, then it would need a center rebuild. So you minds well do a rebuild for the whole turbo while you're in there.

[timg]

Definitely check shaft play and that the return flows freely.

Tim

[IsaacHayes]

She is looking to trade it in most likely, so I don't want to do a whole lot of work to it if I don't have to. If it needs new turbo or seals it's probably not worth messing with.

Would the return line be the red rubber one? It's got super small metal tube coming into it which is crimped, then it goes back to metal. Hard to see under the intake manifold as the turbo is under that between the firewall.

[sharkey]

the oil return is underneath the turbo and it will go into the oil pan or just above the pan rail in the block.

[IsaacHayes]

Right but it was hard to see hardly any bit of the turbo where it was. I saw a metal line coming from somewhere towards the turbo, and then it was crimped onto a red rubber hose, then it went back to metal and down towards the motor. I'm guessing this is the oil drain line. I was curious if since it was red that means oil not coolant, maybe a common thing on factory vehicles? Or maybe just this make/model does it that way? I'm assuming it's the oil return.

[Driver_10]

Its already been said to check the shaft for play and to inspect the return line. The only other thing that I could recommend would be to try using an oil pressure restrictor in the feed line.

Good luck...

[sharkey]

i wouldnty run a restrictor. everyone i have seen that runs a restrictor with a journal bearing turbo ends up breaking a shaft. most factory turbo vehicles dont have an oil restrictor and they never had problems, why put one in???

what i have heard from several people is journal bearing is best with as much oil as you can feed it, ball bearings are best to use a restrictor.

[ForcedFirebird]

This is an OEM turbo car, isn't it?

[IsaacHayes]

Yes OEM. I haven't had time to go back to check it out but I did see autozone has some images online. The oil return hose is just clamped on to the metal tubes with hose clamps. The red hose I saw was the coolant line from the turbo. When I get a chance I will see if it's blowing oil into the charge tube and if the shaft has play. I will also inspect the oil drain tube and if it's nasty then replace it and see if that fixes it. I'm guessing a new turbo isn't that much on ebay I saw one for ~160 but not sure if you have to remove the intake manifold to get to it and all.

I don't want to commit to taking too much stuff off and buying gaskets if something else is hosed. I will update as I progress.

[Jman]

Use a vaccuum pump to open the waste gate. You can use the opposite end to create pressure, or if you have an air compressor use that and secure the gate to the open position. Disconnect the oil feed line to your turbo and cap it off. I don't know what type of fittning you have, but chances are it is pipe thread into the side of the block. Just use something that can hold the engine oil pressure without blowing out, like a pipe plug if your oil line is set up like the example. Place a piece of fuel line in the compressor to prevent it from turning. Start the engine and let it idle as long as it usually takes to start smoking, and see if taking the turbo out of the picture gets rid of the smoking problem, this is all assuming you cant get your hand in to check the compressor for EXCESSIVE movement. All journal bearing type turbos have some shaft play, and only experience will tell you how much is normal, unless you have a manual and a dial indicator. That is the shadetree mechanic way of checking that, without special tools. Sure its dangerous, and sounds absurd, but unless you have any sources to use, its not that bad of a way to verify/check the source of the smoke. Turbos arent cheap, and are usualy tucked away. Not easy to pull. You need gaskets, possible studs/nuts. If its watercooled, fittings break off or are rusted in pretty good, assuming most bad habbits are to not top off the radiator with, uh, coolant, or change the coolant every other year.