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  • The problem children

    It seems like I get all the "problem children." Every car that no-one else can figure out tends to end up in my lap. I am proud to say, I've only had 1 car in 20 years I couldn't figure out. A Benz that I couldn't pull the info off of alldata, mitchel, or from benz themselves. Not completely my fault, but I couldn't afford to drop 18k on a benz scanner for a 1 time use.
    Anyway, I have a problem child and this time it's mine. My S-10. I wasn't sure where else to put this post.

    She's a 1995 S-10 2.2L. Engine is stock. About 4 months ago the engine light came on, My EGR diaphram failed. No problem, slapped on a new one, had to get license plates anyway. Passed emission test, next day light is back. Diagnose it, and find out my cheapy, 1 year old converter is blown out (no guts). I figure forget it, don't need one for 2 more years anyway. Truck runs fine. It rains in feb. and she develops a random multiple miss. Spark plug wires are cheap too and they are a year old but arc'ing 'oh so prettily. Easy fix. Or so I thought. I swapped the wires and still got a random miss. hmmm. Must be a fouled plug. Go to pull the plugs....#4 has so much light brown powdery crap packed around the plug I can't get a socket on it. I figured this came from a back heater hose I caught the year before and didn't notice the plug. Took me 4 hours with PB Blaster and small screw drivers to chisel my way down enough to get a socket on the plug and pull it. I changed the plugs and cleaned out the plug holes. Put in new plugs and damned if I STILL don't have a random miss. shit. I'll check the injectors. SO I pull the upper plenum to get to them and ohm them out. All 4 are out of spec by 10 or more ohms. I go get new ones. I figure I should do a compression check. I pull the plugs back out while warm, and do a compression test: 1-4, 125-125-130-65. Damn bad rings? hmmmm, I run a wet compression test and slug 4 pumps up. Yep bad rings. I say screw it, I'll live with the miss for a week or 2 I need the truck. Now I only had 1 miss, So I figure since she ran decent on 4 questionable injectors she should still on 4 "new" injectors. Somewhere along the line I get a bright idea to ohm the injectors again, the new ones. They are out of spec too. Maybe my info for injector spec is wrong? While I got the injectors out my 10 year old decides she's going to hit the key. She floods the cylinders with fuel, LOTS of fuel! So I get the injectors back in, pull the plugs out, spin the motor throwing gas out the plug holes in every direction, man what a high, and then shoot carb clean down the plug holes to help dry it out. Time to wait a day, I'm tripping hard.

    Put plugs back in and start.
    WTF!?
    no miss. Runs great. Really great. I let it warm up, I take her for a spin, a HARD spin, honestly I beat the snot out of her. 6800 gear change, side-stepping clutch, beat on it. Runs fine. Reminds me of my old truck again.
    65 on slug 4 should be missing.
    I go back to shop, compression check it again. 132 on slug 4. Scratching my head. It healed itself?
    Screw it, it works.
    next week it don't start. Then it does start. Then it don't. I suspect short in ignition switch. Check it, no short. find failing fuel pump, intermittently locks up. Swap fuel pump. Miss is back! WTF!?
    Oh but it's worse now. no power, barely can chug down the road and yes the compression is back down again. Did I miss something really easy? How did the compression come back and then go way again? LOL Should I wash the cylinders in fuel again!? JK

    It's got 165k on it. I have never had rings fail before from age. I have no experience watching a motor age till it died. I always rebuilt them or blew them apart well before. So I always thought when rings go, 1. it's gradual and 2. they don't intermittently give you compression. I really think I missing something here.
    sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
    A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
    Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
    Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
    PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

  • #2
    Leakdown test?

    Oscilloscope pattern of ignition?

    Can you do a cylinder balance test based on a scan tool shutting off injectors sequentially? How about a cylinder balance test based on killing spark?



    You've replaced a bunch of failed components; but it seems like no component failed twice. Each failure seems genuine; each replacement should have corrected the problem--except for the low compression healing temporarily. THAT would be screwy as hell.

    You have my sympathy.
    ^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert

    Comment


    • #3
      Replace the truck.
      Past Builds;
      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
      Current Project;
      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

      Comment


      • #4
        So I was cleaning my guns the other day and snapped. I shot it, several times. Just the motor mind you. :P
        I have located an 1976 Olds 350. At 8.5:1 compression it should take pump gas nicely. I have a B&M street/strip TH400 sitting in the garage with less then 200 miles on it plus a 3200 stall converter. I'm going to wedge that in there, old school carb, HEI ignition, quick, simple, raw. I figure the small truck should get decent gas mileage with that much motor too.
        sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
        A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
        Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
        Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
        PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

        Comment


        • #5
          my friend has a 2003 s10 with the 22. and many of the same issues... popping a code regularly. i'm blanking on the code currently... the same egr code every time though. emissions evap leak. about 2 years ago the truck would not want to start... just cranked. i think the crank sensor was replaced. then the truck had a loss of power. a tune up was done, and i think a coil was replaced. it still had issues, so a shop tested the injectors an cleaned them out. the truck has been running great since, but that code still pops up regularly... weekly, if not daily. now there was(and still is i think) an issue with his air intake/plenum... its plastic and cracked underneath he told me, near where it seals to the throttle body.

          he hasnt bothered to look into it more currently because the truck is running good, and he doesnt have money to throw at it. but despises seeing that engine light!
          2.5 '88-93 mazda b series trucks:current daily-b2800 (carb chevy 2.8l), 4x4, 31"s, bushbar,rollbar
          '92 b2200 fi, lowered, project.
          '95 chevy beretta z26, black, soon to be daily for school, a couple appearance mods to come, repairs currently

          Comment


          • #6
            If an oil shot improved the compression test, and solvent temporarily restored normal compression, I would have to say badly carboned piston rings/grooves. You should have tried running Marvel Mystery Oil at 20 percent volume in the engine oil. But I guess, ballistically speaking, it's a moot point now....lol

            If you ain't rock and roll, you must be driving a Honda

            Comment


            • #7
              I didn't shoot it. I wanted too. Wife never lets me have any fun!

              It sat. and sat. and sat. Last week I had to move it and sure enough, it started in a split second, not even a full second of cranking. So I was thinking, just maybe there is build up on the rings, grooves, and maybe valves. So I changed the oil, sub-ing 1 quart with marvel, and dropped a pint of marvel in the gas tank. Then noticed I had like 2 gallons in there, so I ran her to the closest gas station, put in 4 gallons, and drove her home.
              That's when I noticed the fuel level gauge pegged past full. Loss of ground to fuel gauge. I've seen something like this happen before. Here's what I'm thinking, I have a combination of problems. Let's say I do have gooped up valves and rings, I also think I have a short in the wiring harness on the fuel sending unit. Assuming the short is intermittent. When the short is active the motor has enough draw to suck the fuel through, runs like crap, but she still runs. Since usually this happens to me in traffic, I get the rpms up, dump the clutch, s-10 wheel hops like mad, shaking the short, giving connection and BANG fuel pump kicks back in and I have power again....till she shorts out again. I'm popping the bed later this week to test the sending unit harness. For me that's easier then dropping the fuel tank. I'll post results.
              sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
              A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
              Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
              Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
              PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

              Comment


              • #8
                Could be the ground which is usually terminated to the frame behind the left rear wheel. Bolted from inside the frame box. I've seen a lot of fuel pump misery because of that little ground.

                If you ain't rock and roll, you must be driving a Honda

                Comment


                • #9
                  back in '06 when I got this truck for free....
                  I had to put in a fuel pump, sending unit, gas tank, tank mount and straps, and replaced both main and return fuel lines with modern plastic tube and quick fittings....I relocated the ground (fuel pump and sending unit) to the top of the frame. A few days ago I cleaned this connection and applied contact grease, no change. That's why I suspect the short to be in the sending unit where the wires pass through the top of it. They like to short there. I'll be pulling the bed soon and follow up.
                  sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
                  A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
                  Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
                  Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
                  PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    20 years experience and I'm still getting bit by the little stuff.

                    SO... I don't know how I missed this. Intermittent short, power to fuel pump, located in the little yellow pass through from fuel pump to harness outside of tank.

                    No misses, the comp readings are 135+ on all four cyls.
                    Took a scrap run of 1800 lbs to scrap yard yesterday without a hitch. My workhorse is back!

                    It's ok really....I couldn't afford the V-8 swap right now anyway.
                    sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
                    A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
                    Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
                    Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
                    PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

                    Comment

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