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  • Need spark plug selection help

    I'm looking EVERYWHERE and I just can't get the answer I am looking for. I even called Advanceautoparts, AC Delco (closed), ect...

    Basically I need spark plugs that are 2 stages colder then stock plugs. I don't need anything fancy, just colder plugs. I found the code for AC Delco but the ones Advanced sells don't follow that code, wtf?!?!

    What do you guys do for your modified 3x00's?

    All I want is colder spark plugs but no retailer can help me, I hope you guys can help.

    Thanks

    EDIT: I finally found Autolite plugs that specifically list plugs of different heat ranges for modded vehicles. They are sold for the 3800 supercharger but the plugs are essentially the same.

    For anyone else needing this info, I went here Autolite
    Last edited by Schmieder; 03-28-2010, 06:32 PM.

  • #2
    NGK TR-6 would do well. Gap to where it needs to be.
    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
    Original L82 Longblock
    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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    • #3
      those autolites are copper... i wouldn't choose copper for an engine like this, but if nothing else comes up, it looks like you're potentially stuck with it or the NGKs...
      1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
      Latest nAst1 files here!
      Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

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      • #4
        Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
        NGK TR-6 would do well. Gap to where it needs to be.
        Stock being 0.060" is there a better gap for a turbo?

        Thanks for the info, I will look up the NGK TR-6.

        EDIT: For others who are also looking for colder plugs, NGK's heat range numbers are backwards.
        Lower = Hotter / Higher = Colder example(BKR7E-11)

        Originally posted by robertisaar View Post
        those autolites are copper... i wouldn't choose copper for an engine like this, but if nothing else comes up, it looks like you're potentially stuck with it or the NGKs...
        Aside from having to change them out more often, what other cons are there? Just curious, I read copper has superior heat transfer ability compared to other metals used for spark plugs.

        I agree with you on quality.

        EDIT: The NGK TR-6's are copper as well. But with a little research I did confirm copper is much better dealing with higher temps then platinum and Iridium. Maybe this is why I was having a hard time finding colder plugs as I was barking up the wrong tree. It seems copper plugs are the only plugs I can find that advertise colder plugs. Even NGK's racing plugs are copper so I feel it will be suitable. Ehh, I'll have to change out my plugs more often but if that is the only downfall I can't complain.

        I just wish I had switched to colder plugs before I put the heads on. I have the current plugs angled just right. The grounding electrode is positioned where the bar faces away from the combustion chamber. There is a name for that trick but I forget it, degreeing? It will be much harder to do that for the rear 3 plugs and I am NOT removing heads just for plug alignment, lol.

        THANKS GUYS!!!
        Last edited by Schmieder; 03-29-2010, 08:30 AM.

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        • #5
          Mark the plugs with a marker so you know where the ground strap is and then when you install you can see how it lines up and add spacers as needed.

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          • #6
            I've only ran standard copper plugs in my engine. They go for at least 30K and don't look that bad when I take them out.

            If you have trouble with spark blow-out then tighten the gap. But do not tighten it unless you need to. You should be fine with .060" at your level of boost. The stock GM DIS is very robust.

            I plan to start with TR55 or TR6 in the orange car. It has 11.5:1 compression (or will once I drop the motor on the engine stand into the car). IIRC NGK lists the TR-55 as stock replacement, but is a bit colder plug than the AC Delco (If I remember right from all my research and cross referencing, but I could be wrong). I might just start with the TR6 as I KNOW that's colder than stock. They say every 100hp go one step colder or something like that. Well that should be about right for me...
            Last edited by IsaacHayes; 03-29-2010, 10:05 AM.
            sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
            1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
            16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
            Original L82 Longblock
            with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
            Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

            Comment


            • #7
              rotating the plug so that the spark is facing the intake valve is known as indexing and is worth the time it takes, especially if you're doing some tuning...
              1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
              Latest nAst1 files here!
              Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Schmieder View Post
                The grounding electrode is positioned where the bar faces away from the combustion chamber. There is a name for that trick but I forget it, degreeing?
                Degreeing is what you do to cams to change valve events.
                -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                Originally posted by Jay Leno
                Tires are cheap clutches...

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by robertisaar View Post
                  rotating the plug so that the spark is facing the intake valve is known as indexing and is worth the time it takes, especially if you're doing some tuning...
                  Indexing, thats it. It was on the tip of my tongue. And yeah, I had the spark facing the intake valve.

                  I'm sure I can do it again with the engine built up. It's not hard rotating the block forward to change the rear plugs. Plus, I can mark the plugs, the socket and the extension so I know where the spark is facing. The front plugs are simple. Once I get the back plugs indexed the front will be a breeze.

                  I spoke to a local auto tech about spark plug heat ranges. He was a tremendous help. He found that Champion 403's (copper) would be plenty cool if I didn't mind changing them out often. He also suggested Champion 7401 as they are double platinum and are 2 degrees cooler.

                  So I got Champion 7401's RS12PYP

                  __________________________________________________ ____________

                  For anyone else who needs to get cooler plugs for the 3x00v6, here is a list I was given.

                  There are other brands but I don't have info on them. Champions are decent plugs anyways. Use this info at your own risk.

                  4 degrees cooler
                  Champion 403 RS10LC (copper)

                  2 degrees cooler
                  Champion 401 RS12YC (copper)
                  Champion 3401 RS12YP (platinum)
                  Champion 7401 RS12PYP (double platinum)

                  1 degree cooler
                  Champion 20 RS13LYC5 (copper)

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