Please Don't Flame Complete Audio Newb needs Help

[Charless1]

OK the Amp I have is not pushing enough Power to the Speakers what I would like to know is can I Take 2 amp outs and connect to 1 Speaker. I have tried doing 2 separate Lines and then connecting to the Input Connectors on the Speaker but that sends my AMP into a Surge Suppression Mode

Here is the Info on the equipment
2 VuiSonic 1000 watt subs




Sony 600w 4/3 channelAmp
AMP = Sony XM-554ZR

Maximum power output of 110 W per channel
(at 4 Ω).
•This unit can be used as a bridging amplifier
with a maximum output of 300 W.
•Built in Low-pass filter (80 Hz, – 18 dB/oct) and
High-pass filter (80 Hz, – 12 dB/oct).
•Protection circuit and indicator provided.
•Hi-level Sensing Power On feature allows unit
to be activated without need for REMOTE
connection.
•Pulse power supply* for stable and regulated
output power.
•Direct connection can be made with the speaker
output of your car audio unit if it is not
equipped with the line output (High level input
connection).

Circuit system OTL (output transformerless)
circuit
Pulse power supply
Inputs RCA pin jacks
High level input connector
Input level adjustment range
0.3 – 6 V (RCA pin jacks),
2.8 – 12 V (High level input)
Outputs Speaker terminals
Speaker impedance 2 – 8 Ω (stereo)
4 – 8 Ω (when used as a
bridging amplifier)
Maximum output 4 Speakers: 110 W × 4 (at 4 Ω)
3 Speakers: 150 W × 2 (at 2 Ω) +
300 W × 1 (BTL, at 4 Ω)
Rated output (supply voltage at 14.4 V)
4 Speakers:
55 W × 4 (20 Hz – 20 kHz, 0.04
% THD, at 4 Ω)
65 W × 4 (20 Hz – 20 kHz, 0.1 %
THD, at 2 Ω)
Frequency response 5 Hz – 50 kHz ( dB)
Harmonic distortion 0.005 % or less (at 1 kHz, 4 Ω)
Low-pass filter 80 Hz, –18 dB/oct
High-pass filter 80 Hz, –12 dB/oct
Power requirements 12 V DC car battery (negative
ground)
Power supply voltage
10.5 – 16 V
Current drain at rated output: 30 A (4 Ω, 55 W
× 4)
Remote input: 1 mA
Dimensions Approx. 401 × 55 × 264 mm (15
7/8 × 2 1/4 × 10 1/2 in) (w/h/d)
not incl. projecting parts and
controls
Mass Approx. 3.2 kg (7 lb 1 oz) not
incl. accessories
Supplied accessories Mounting screws (4)
High level input cord (1)
Protection cap (1)
Tell me if you need more Info on this setup

Please Don't FLAME like title says I am a complete audio NEWB :shrug:
Edit/Delete Message

[91LQ1Lumina]

I am no expert, but I will tell you what I have been told about that. If the amps are not exactly balanced (IE some sort of voltage controller between the two amps) then one amp could drive current into the other. When that happens it will damage components in the other amp.

Again I am no expert, but that is what I have heard.

[Schmieder]

Are you running 1000W subs with an amp that can only push 600W?

That is what you posted and if accurate you do not have strong enough amplifiers.

What most people don't know is the speaker requires full power even for quiet operation. Watts do not increase as volume increases. What happens is the speakers electro-magnets are pulled into place when there is no sound present requiring full power they are rated at. When a sound signal is received, the magnets release to create the sound wave.

Most people believe the e-magnets are powered during sound wave creation, it is the opposite. The e-magnets are powered during silence.

Does this make any sense?

now to answer your question, maybe. It may work as you described by adding two channels per speaker but there may also be issues. Both channels need to send the exact same signal. If one channel was for i.e. Front Right and the other was Rear Right there may be differences in EQ causing a nasty disturbance wave.

Put it this way, you can try it and see if it works. If it blows your amp you have your answer and you need another one anyways to properly power the subs.

Best option is to consult a sound system specialist and do the job right the first time, get the proper amplifier.

Good luck.

I am no expert, but I will tell you what I have been told about that. If the amps are not exactly balanced (IE some sort of voltage controller between the two amps) then one amp could drive current into the other. When that happens it will damage components in the other amp.

Again I am no expert, but that is what I have heard.

You are correct. And it also puts a risk for fire as well. Not a good thing if in the trunk with flamable lining and a gas tank 2 feet away.

[91LQ1Lumina]

What most people don't know is the speaker requires full power even for quiet operation. Watts do not increase as volume increases. What happens is the speakers electro-magnets are pulled into place when there is no sound present requiring full power they are rated at. When a sound signal is received, the magnets release to create the sound wave.

Most people believe the e-magnets are powered during sound wave creation, it is the opposite. The e-magnets are powered during silence.

Does this make any sense?.

I've got to say that does not make sense to me. So what you saying is that if I have a 600w amp that has a 60amp circuit. That only when its quiet, it's pulling full power? I don't think that's right, but maybe I am misunderstanding.

[bszopi]

Yeah, that's not even close to correct...

[bszopi]

To come back to this, the way I understand it, you are only using a single amp, but are wanting to use it in 2-ch mode versus 4-ch mode. Probably isn't going to happen. It looks like you can run it in 3-ch mode, but then only 1 sub would get the benefit of having more power. Not to bust on you, but amps like this, that are available from places like Walmart, aren't meant to do what you are wanting.

Oh, and those 1000w subs will most likely blow after any extended time above anything more than 300w or so.

[Charless1]

i bridged the right side and wired both subs to the bridged connection at 4 ohms and it is working great

[91LQ1Lumina]

i bridged the right side and wired both subs to the bridged connection at 4 ohms and it is working great

Well that amp does not say it supports that mode in the manual. All I can say is I hope your sub's are 4 Ohm speakers, and not 2 Ohms. Lastly best of luck!


That's somewhat unclear, it sounds as if you wired two subs in parallel. In that case they would have to be 8ohm speakers. Or did you wire two separate connections (IE speaker one, speaker two) to the amp?

[Schmieder]

Yeah, that's not even close to correct...

it may be different with car stereos but I do know with my system the speakers are running full power at any volume level. And it is the loss of power that drives the 'thud' which makes the sound waves from the speakers. As the e-magnets are primed and the speaker is pulled into tension until it receives the zero signal to make the sound.

And watts being a combination of Volts and Amps. If the watts required to run the speakers are greater then what the amp can push, it won't work out.

Please explain where you feel I am wrong. I am curious.

edit: nm, after a quick search I quickly realized my guitar amp operates much differently then the typical stero amp and speakers. Reason it works the way I described is for a better 'snap' from the speaker itself. When an electric current powers an e-magnet there is a small amount of time for the signal to reach its desired rating. Simialr to what holds back the speed of pc processors, the ramp up to the required voltage. When the speaker is precharged it is under greater tension, a reduction of signal is sent, and the motion of the speaker is faster and more defined. It is a method of producing a sharper sound and I guess it is preferred in a musicians amp and not in a casual amp/speaker due to the power requirements.

Sorry for the misunderstanding, I was wrong.

[Tbay99Venture]

Audio off topic

I have to wonder if you're thinking of a class A amplifier -- where the output (tube or transistor) is biased so it's conducting even with no signal. There's very low distortion that way but you get about 25% efficiency from the amp. I got wound up in an old amp nostalgia phase long ago, you can check out things like AX84.com for that sort of info.

I'm not a musician, but from what I read guitar amps didn't need lots of watts for even decent sized halls. Of course if you're the Grateful Dead then it's an entirely different thing.

Anyhow, a class A isn't dumping the bias current into the speaker, it's just running through it's oiutput tube or transistor and internal load. The signal is picked off and that junction and brought out to the speaker.

Hey, if you've got a lot of money you can buy one of those Single Ended eXperimental (SEX) headphone amps. (www.bottlehead.com)

[tijuana_no]

an amp. does exacly what it's name say "amplifier" amplifies the input signal to the output and it does this on class A , AB , D , ect, amps.
speakers doesn't need a lot of power to get them moving , as Brad mention those 1000 watt woofers will probly only need 300 watts of continious power and more likely blow them up.
In car audio a lot of manufacures give the specs where there product was tested under there best conditions . conditions that they probly never see in your car and if they do will be for small amount of time before more likely blow up.
what this guy needs is a mono amp or a 2 channel amp that he can bridge to the ohms he needs.

[pocket-rocket]

Not to mention, distortion will kill a speaker faster than over powering it.