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  • Question: Im starting my tune up!

    I went out and bought bosch platinum 2 spark plugs I still have more to buy.. Did I make the right decision? I would like to also buy new wires the ones I have are from 06 with minimal use on them 7mm... Do these 3.4L DOHC's have coils? how often should they be replaced? and should I do the timing belt? I was also going to do the +6/-6 timing thingy:P Don't make fun of me..


    Anyway... Im fairly intelligent and can accomplish any and all of this with the help the 60degreev6 community and the factory service manual:P Let me know if you can help...

    P.S. Oh and it's a 94 cutlass supreme if that matters probably not....

  • #2
    You made a poor choice on the Bosch's. Its been said over and over stay away from the Bosch spark plugs. They plain won't work for long at all. I've always used AC Delco and I believe a lot of people are using NGK with good results too. Go with a decent set of wires, I've used the cheapo Autozone ones in the past and they arc through within a few months. I believe Magnacore is the popular choice. I'll admit I'm using a set of Champion wires that I found for $7 in a crunch on eBay - no problems thusfar.

    There are 3 ignition coils, secured by 6 bolts to the ignition module. Being a 94 the ignition module/coil assembly is beneath the front exhaust manifold (just follow your spark plug wires). The coils shouldn't need to be replaced unless they fail. They are not a wear item in the sense that after X,XXX miles you should change them.

    If the T-belt is old or in questionable shape, change it. The GM recommended interval is 60k but I think its a gamble. I'd say 40k is the most I'd want to put on one.
    Last edited by jmgtp; 07-22-2009, 02:57 PM.
    1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
    1994 Corvette
    LT1/ZF6
    2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4
    3.7/42RLE

    Comment


    • #3
      Nay nay to Bosch Platinum!!

      AC Delco Iridiums FTW.

      Stay away from that platinum crap unless it's a Credit Card.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by asylummotorsports View Post
        Nay nay to Bosch Platinum!!

        AC Delco Iridiums FTW.

        Stay away from that platinum crap unless it's a Credit Card.
        I run plain jane AC Delco or NGK's in mine. Bosh plugs are Junk unless your running a Volkswagon or Volvo ect... Take them back if its not to late. Also replace the PCV, Fuel Filter, Air filter, and clean the throttle plate.. Check your Brake booster hose, if its squishy where it connects to the back of the intake manifold i would replace it (your brakes will feel much better, not as mushy) and might also consider doing a can of GM Top engine cleaner (or that "Sea Foam" shiznit i hear about from some of the guys) and BG44K Fuel injector cleaner. Your engine will enjoy the full tuneup i listed above...

        Allways inspect the T-belt if its got some miles on it. if it needs replaced i would also do the water pump.. timing mods are up to you.. i have allways ran stock timing settings and been perfectly happy.. i would do other mods before timing mods, just my opinion...

        BTW I just threw away my platinum credit card and got a Uranium Card!!! AND i bought a hummer to drive to the end of my driveway to get the news paper.... And thats all i use it for! BLING BLING FTW!
        Shane "RedZMonte"
        2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
        1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
        -Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
        2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
        1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
        1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
        1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
        1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)

        Comment


        • #5
          I would nix the waterpump off the things to change list. Shane might be thinking of some other motors that run the waterpump off the timing belt. I see in his sig he has a Subaru and he may be thinking of that - the Subaru boxer motors do run the waterpump off the Tbelt and it only makes sense to change it while you're in there. Our motors do not, it is driven by the serpentine belt and VERY easy to change - I consider it a don't fix if it ain't broke item.
          1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
          1994 Corvette
          LT1/ZF6
          2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4
          3.7/42RLE

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks Guys.. Damm... Luckily I bought the bosch a couple days ago, I can return them and I will... The guy at the counter suggest the acdelco's but at 6.99 a piece, I was thinking of going with the bosch, well f-that!! I figured I'd ask before I went and did anything too drastic to engine...

            I got the cutlass supreme from a junkyard 3-4 years back it was in bad shape, but I wanted it I always liked the look of them... It had the infamous oil leaks I got one of them fix locally, and I still have the one that's leaking from the head or the front of the car... I would like to do it myself just need to know how to, and what I need if its not to expensive...

            T-belt was on the list to be changed. When I get the money I will...

            I actually have some sea foam, but I have heard bad things about it from people on aleromod.com so....

            Originally posted by RedZMonte View Post
            I run plain jane AC Delco or NGK's in mine. Bosh plugs are Junk unless your running a Volkswagon or Volvo ect... Take them back if its not to late. Also replace the PCV, Fuel Filter, Air filter, and clean the throttle plate.. Check your Brake booster hose, if its squishy where it connects to the back of the intake manifold i would replace it (your brakes will feel much better, not as mushy) and might also consider doing a can of GM Top engine cleaner (or that "Sea Foam" shiznit i hear about from some of the guys) and BG44K Fuel injector cleaner. Your engine will enjoy the full tuneup i listed above...

            Allways inspect the T-belt if its got some miles on it. if it needs replaced i would also do the water pump.. timing mods are up to you.. i have allways ran stock timing settings and been perfectly happy.. i would do other mods before timing mods, just my opinion...

            BTW I just threw away my platinum credit card and got a Uranium Card!!! AND i bought a hummer to drive to the end of my driveway to get the news paper.... And thats all i use it for! BLING BLING FTW!
            Where might my brake booster hose be? I need to remind you'll that I'm fairly intelligent, but somewhat limited in car knowledge, but for the most part can understand a lot of what people say.. Where on the brake booster is the hose located? top, bottom, left, right? Also as far as the PCV, and fuel filter I have know idea on how to change these either.. Ya'll gunna hafta sKool me..

            Well anyways thanks guys I will have more questions as parts arrive and parts returned depending on your approval:P and I do need your approval I dont want junk shxt in my junkyard dogg...

            Comment


            • #7
              The $7 AC Delcos are probably the Rapid Fires, you can use the regular copper AC Delcos that are more likely around $2-4 each.
              1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
              1994 Corvette
              LT1/ZF6
              2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4
              3.7/42RLE

              Comment


              • #8
                Let me give you all a story about the Bosch plugs and why they suck so much. I have a buddy that has a 89 T/A with the TPI 350. It was due time for a tune up and it previously had the old style ac delco plugs in it....you know with the green "AC" written on the side of the plug. Now, it still ran great with those plugs, but they definetly were showing some wear. So he purchased a set of Bosch +2s I installed them for him along with a fresh set of wires and a cap and rotor. And let me tell you, when it came time to start that thing up it ran SOOO rich meaning the plugs were not doing a good job of burning all the fuel. So, we reverted back to the AC Delco plugs that were in it to begin with and it started right up and wasnt running rich. From that point on I deemed ALL Bosch plugs to be crap. Im acdelco all the way now!!
                sigpic
                94 Firebird 3.4 DD
                252000mi. All original

                Comment


                • #9
                  the brake booster is the rubber hose that runs from the brake booster (drivers side on the fire wall) to the back center of the intake manifold, you should be able to reach around the back of the intake manifold and feel where the hose connects to the intake manifold. you will know right away if its all mushy and swelled up from oil (hose should be nice and firm like a radiator hose). if its mushy get a chunk of steel braided hose or get a stock hose and replace it... BIG difference when i did it, the stock one would suck shut and lose about all brake boosting.

                  PCV is located below the throttle body just about its very easy to change if you look for it you will see it. the upper part of the PCV hose connects to the vac ports just behind the throttle body.

                  AC Delco plugs (plain janes) are about 1.99ea same with NGK.

                  Fuel filter is located underneath the center of the car just in front of the gas tank. you will see a round ~3" cylinder, one end is screwed in the other is a quick disconnect... i do it the lazy wan and just loosen the screw from the filter slowly and let it leak out the fuel then dissconect w/ the quick disconnect. Don't do it the other way or you will have a big gassy mess lol (1st hand experience). other people pull the fuel pump relay and run the engine untill it stalls (that clears the fuel from the lines and doesn't make a mess).
                  Shane "RedZMonte"
                  2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
                  1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
                  -Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
                  2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
                  1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
                  1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
                  1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
                  1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The GM ignitions run to 'hot' for the bosch plugs too. I've had them burn the platinum tip down into the ceramic in a VERY short time.

                    I even tried accel plugs and my GP miss fired so bad it would hardly run, Put the factory AC plugs in and it ran like a dream.

                    REMEMBER:
                    I did post at one time in the past the GM plug definitions and on The GM Microcat it lists the original 3.4l DOHC plug as a "High Performance" plug. The long thick electrode is specific to the 3.4L DOHC. I had asked GM about it one time and those plugs believe it or not were specially designed for that engine.
                    1991 Grand Prix STE
                    3.4 DOHC
                    1 of 792 Produced
                    Extensive Mods Done

                    1991 Lumina Z34
                    3.4 DOHC
                    Getrag 284 5spd
                    1 of 30
                    Canadian Z34 Models Made with the Getrag 5spd Wahoooo!

                    1980 GMC Sierra Classic C25 With 18,000 ORIGINAL MILES!!!!

                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Where can I get spark plug wires from? I tried summit, and autozone... Actually any info on where to buy the PCV, and the fuel filter would help should I just go to autozone for all these parts? Im interested in quality parts and reasonable prices.
                      Last edited by hok666; 07-24-2009, 12:04 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        unless there is something wrong/faulty with your wires i don't change the wires. as for the PCV and the fuel filter i just get them form my local parts store. When i replaced my wires i bought the premium wires (parts stores usually have 2 or 3 grades of wires) the cheapest wires are usually kinda crappy. I have mangacore wires on mine, they are pretty price... almost overkill in my opinion.
                        Shane "RedZMonte"
                        2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
                        1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
                        -Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
                        2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
                        1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
                        1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
                        1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
                        1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have two 3.4L engines: one is a '92 with ~120K; the other is a '93 with ~136K.

                          Both have original plug wires. There's nothing wrong with them, why change 'em. Have you even TESTED your plug wires? Is the insulation cut, torn, punctured, or swollen?

                          Both have original PCV valves. Again--what's to go wrong with them? I could see cleaning them with a blast of aerosol carb spray if they're getting varnish build-up.

                          Both have had the timing belts replaced (more than once) and that's VERY worthwhile.

                          Both have fairly inexpensive Autolite spark plugs; although I've heard that Autolite has shipped off their production to China and if that's the case I'm no longer recommending--or using--Communist Autolites. Fairly inexpensive A-C plugs would be just fine, too. There's no need for expensive spark plugs--they're very unlikely to do anything better than the inexpensive ones; and if you're careful about the inexpensive plugs (i.e., DON'T buy Communist Chinese plugs; or the soft electrode/brittle porcelain Champion plugs) there's no reason to spend the extra dollars.

                          Pull the old fuel filter out, drain it, and then blow through it. If there's much restriction at all--replace it. If you can blow through it very easily--put it right back in.

                          Don't forget the air filter; and depending on how many miles are on the vehicle, flushing the fluids would be a good idea, too.

                          Doesn't take much effort to flush the brake and power steering fluid; changing the trans fluid 'n' filter is a bit more involved, as is flushing the coolant. I don't change oil before 6K miles; I used to do oil sampling/analysis on the '92 at every oil change; I quit at about 80,000 since they kept telling me that the oil was still good (except just after the thermostat died and the engine wouldn't get up to proper temperature--then the oil had too much moisture.)
                          ^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert

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