Cylinder Head Bolts - Torque To Yeild?

[GTP_MuNkY]

Next week I am going to start doing the head and intake gaskets on my engine. I read somewhere that the head bolts were Torque to yield and I would have to replace them when I did the job. However I was just on the phone with the GM Parts desk and they said that there is no need to replace these bolts. (even if I do, they only cost $4.25 for 5 bolts)
I figured I would ask here just to make sure.
Also, what about the Cam carrier bolts and the intake manifold/plenum bolts?
Thanx
Jamie

[RednBlack]

You can use the old ones, I'd advise against it though, since they are so cheap. Most, if not all, aluminum heads to cast iron blocks have stretch torque bolts. No reason to take a chance for 20 bux. New is always better.

The rest of the bolts should be fine. (carriers and intake)

[HayesPerformance]

We use ARP Fasters

We use new ARP fasteners for jobs like that IF they have the size we need. There the best Professional fasteners that I've ever seen for NOT STRETCHING or LOOSING Torque over time, etc. There replacement studs with nuts in most sizes that ARE VERY GOOD!!!!!! Better in applying the exact torque applyed to the head, or intake and so on.

The new GM bolts will be good though for OEM replacement.

MAKE SURE THAT YOUR THREADS ARE PERFECTLY CLEAN AND PUT A FINE MACHINING OIL, OR EVEN TAPPING OIL WILL DO, ONTO THE NEW BOLTS TO PROPERLY ACHIEVE THE APPLYED TORQUE.

Best Regards,
David Hayes
President of
HAYES PERFORMANCE PLUS

[GTP_MuNkY]

New question here...
In talking with my father about the project he tells me I have to get Cylinder #1 to TDC (which I knew) but he said I have to get it there on the compression stroke. How do you find that on these engines? Its been so long since I had to do something like this, and when I did it was in shop class on an inline 6.
Thanks

Jamie

[GTP_MuNkY]

Starting to think I dunno what I'm doing...
I just read this thread http://60degreev6.com/showthread.php?t=29097 and was right confused by WhiteZ34's second post...
I was figuring all I had to do was get the #1 cylinder to TDC and then lock the cams in place and remove them and all would go back together fine.
I can't find a walk through for remove and replace the cylinder heads, maybe someone can point me in the right direction?
thx
Jamie

[HayesPerformance]

Well you can't do it the easy way, by just sticking you finger over the hole (not in it LOL) and turn it over with socket on a power bar and turn it till you feel air forcing against your finger and BEFORE you turn past TDC align the mark on your Harmonic Balanncer with the TDC timing MARK that is applicable to YOUR engine your timing.

That is just the general procedure.

We have to use a Compression gauge to see when we're on the compression stroke.

IF YOU GO PASSED THE PRE-DETERMAINED MARK

DO NOT TURN BACK!!!!!! Go around again!!!

If you want I have ALL the GM shop mauals on the 3.4 dohc's and I can tell you all the step listed when I get time here.

Regards,
Dave

[GTP_MuNkY]

If you want I have ALL the GM shop mauals on the 3.4 dohc's and I can tell you all the step listed when I get time here.

That would be GREATLY apprieciated!!! It would save me a LOT of worry about screwing this project up!

thanx
Jamie

[HayesPerformance]

Hey Jamie!

No problem. I will have to get it to ya in my spare time here. When are you going to start doing it?

Dave

[GTP_MuNkY]

The plan was to start doing it Tuesday afternoon after a quick trip to the wreckers in search of some interior peices. I'm HOPING to get it all torn down tuesday afternoon/evening and get the Heads and lower intake manifold to a machine shop for cleaning and inspection the next day. I have the week off school and the day off work so I figured it would be a good time to start. I'm ordering the gaskets today or tomorrow, but they will only take 2 days to get in. Next weekend being a long weekend here I was hoping to get it put back together, or at least mostly put back together.
Speaking of which, is there any precautionary measures I should take to protect the engine while I have the heads and intake off for that few days? I know I have seen my father close off an intake manifold using duct tape on the top to keep bugs out.
I was going to do the timing belt and parts to go with it while I was at it, but after some carefull consideration I decided against it. With the amount of coolant that got into the oil I want to make sure the bearings are ok before I go spending that kind of money on it, the belt on it looks fine anyways...should be good for now.

So far it looks like tools I will need to buy are;
Torque wrench
compression tester
cam flat tools (4 or 2?)

Thanks again

Jamie

[napatiger]

The way I understand it is that #1 TDC is easy enough to find, and the compression stroke is determined by the timing of the DOH Cams

[GTP_MuNkY]

It looks like the work will end up waiting till thursday. I was at least hoping to get some of the crap off the engine today, but the weather isn't agreeing with me, supposed to rain all day here. I have another day off on thursday, but even thursday is looking crappy for weather.

Jamie

[GTP_MuNkY]

I got my hands on a manual for the engine and now have a slew of other questions. Mostly because what it says in the manual contradicts what I have been told over the last few months.

1. First off the timing marks...according to the manual when you get all the timing marks lined up just right the #1 cylinder will be at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Yet Everything I have read here has said never go by the factory timing marks...is my manual throwing me for a loop? or is this pretty accurate? Its says to line up the marks on the cam gears AND on the intermediate shaft sprocket and front engine cover

2. Before removing the cam carriers it tells me this
" Step 9 - install fuel line hoses under the cam shafts and between the
lifters to hold the lifters in place when the carrier is removed"
It then goes on to tell me the length of each peice of hose. This confuses me...is this instead of the cam hold down tools or something? because there is NO mention of cam hold down tools...anyone have a pic of this being done? A camshaft timing clamp tool is mentioned in another procedure, but even then it has you completely remove the cam carriers from the engine before it mentions that tool, and it goes on to remove lifters and such, I don't wnat to go that extreme, I just need these gaskets swapped.

3. My father told me a week or so ago that I want to get cylinder #1 to TDC on the compression stroke, the manual says its on the exhaust stroke. My fathers never ripped one of these engines apart, so is the manual correct?

4. When removing the rear cylinder head it seems to tell me to leave the exhaust manifold bolted to it, just remove the crossover pipe and unbolt the manifold from the down pipe. Is this because its just too damn hard to get a wrench down there?

5. It tells me to get the exhaust manifolds inspected. I planned on getting the intake manifold and heads done anyways, is there any sense to send the manifolds too, or will checking them with a straight edge and a feeler guage suffice?

6. Cylinder head bolts...it says to torque them to 44ft-lbs and then turn them an additional 90 degrees, thats Torque To Yeild, correct?

7. Aside from the torque wrench and fuel hose are there going to be any other tools I need? I'm still confused about the lack of cam hold down tools being mentioned.

Thanx for your patients and assistance guys, those that have helped me out have helped me get a better understanding for this project...I've done searches but I never seem to find quite the answer I'm looking for. I've always been a visual learner, so learning by walk throughs and everything is tough for me when the parts aren't right there in front of me.

Jamie

[SappySE107]

Don't use any painted marks. You can judge near TDC with the cam belt drive hear mark pointing up or down but there is a timing mark on the casing and the crank pulley.

The fuel line is to keep the lifters in place. Its supposed to wedge between each pair of lifters to keep them in the bore. Good luck. I just put a towel down and try to catch them before they drop to the floor.

Its TDC no matter what. You can either make the front or rear bank on the compression stroke but being a 95 its going to know this anyway from the front intake cam having the SFI timing pickup on it. Don't worry about compression or exhaust, just do TDC on number 1.

I have removed the rear head without unbolting the downpipe but its a pain in the ass. Its even worse for reinstall. I hate the downpipe though as well so I just deal with it.

Wouldn't hurt to check the manifolds with a flat edge. I will probably run mine on a sand belt and see how they look. Probably fine unless you ran without a gasket or something stupid like that.

Yes, torque to yield is how the bolts are from GM.

Have you looked at the DOHC articles for the picture walkthrough on cam belt timing? That might help if you haven't.

[GTP_MuNkY]

The fuel line is to keep the lifters in place. Its supposed to wedge between each pair of lifters to keep them in the bore. Good luck. I just put a towel down and try to catch them before they drop to the floor.

Thats partly why I was confused..to me it sounds like its telling me to put the hose between the cam and the lifter, but the lifters will fall out the bottom, so what good would that do?

Yes, torque to yield is how the bolts are from GM.

They will get replaced then, I'll place that order tomorrow morning.

Have you looked at the DOHC articles for the picture walkthrough on cam belt timing? That might help if you haven't.

I was looking at it the other day but the pics weren't blowing up for me, I see they work now. I'm going to try and download the entire walk through to my girlfriends laptop as offline content and take it to the car with me when I start.

How should I cover the engine while the parts are off being inspected? The last thing I want is some bugs building a nest in it or something.

Thanx again

Jamie

[HayesPerformance]

Also, MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE VALVE SPRINGS FOR HEIGHT!

I have seen many times where a few of the springs a out of spec, enough that you didn't need to measure. there WAY out.

Were doing one RIGHT NOW and there spring are all different heights none the same. when ever we built up a engine for one of our customers when that is the case and we put new or VERY GOOD USED springs you WILL see a difference in how even it runs, EVEN with a wild cam. It does make things more money BUT Its good to do a job right ALL THE WAY THROUGH. YOU WON'T regret it

Sorry I haven't got you the GM Break down on timing the cams Its a lot to write down here and I have been working weekends even to keep up at our shop I've had so much work.
YIKES!!!!

I should send a copy of the book to Ben to put on the site here. The GM info I have in the book here is Helpful!!!!!!!