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EDIT:: Fixed code... now on to other problems...

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  • EDIT:: Fixed code... now on to other problems...

    I'm getting a Code 43 only when the engine is first started up in the morning, or after sitting for about 3+ hours. I checked the oil and it was at the very bottom of the hash marks... so I filled it up and I'm gonna see how it is tomorrow morning... could low oil (just under a quart low) cause the engine to knock? Or should I get under and check if the connections are bad? The car only throws the code when it's cold, and I don't think I'm hearing any knocking.

    Car runs fine otherwise... smoked my friend's 240SX the other day

    EDIT:: See last post for new problems
    --Rob
    Currently attending Wyotech, Fremont, CA. Start Date: 1.24.05. Grad. Date: 4.21.06
    1992 Chevy Lumina Z34 5 Speed FOR SALE $1400 AS IS RUNS WELL

  • #2
    RE: Code 43: Only When Engine Is Cold

    Help!
    --Rob
    Currently attending Wyotech, Fremont, CA. Start Date: 1.24.05. Grad. Date: 4.21.06
    1992 Chevy Lumina Z34 5 Speed FOR SALE $1400 AS IS RUNS WELL

    Comment


    • #3
      Possible causes:
      Open or shorted knock sensor
      Loose knock sensor
      Excessive mechanical noise within engine
      Improper or incorrectly installed MEM-CAL in the ECM or defective ECM
      Intermittent open in the EST line to the ignition module

      Low oil = low oil pressure

      Have you tried a compression test?

      An engine can knock due to oil starvation caused by sludge obstructing the flow of oil .. What brand oil you use? Change oil/filter as sheduled?

      Good luck,
      Jay
      New member of 200,000 mile club as of May 16, 2005

      Comment


      • #4
        Yeah I change my oil religiously. I use Valvoline 5w30 every 3k miles. I usually end up changing it early (~2800mi.) because of whatever reason, but it's only been about 1500 miles... I can't hear any knock at all though... and it's weird because the symptoms are getting worse, now when the light is on I can't rev past 3500RPM's easily... before I could no sweat now I almost have to floor it to get up that high. And like I said no odd noises... though my car stalls more now... maybe the sensor is bad?

        I need to get it up on a hoist soon >.<
        --Rob
        Currently attending Wyotech, Fremont, CA. Start Date: 1.24.05. Grad. Date: 4.21.06
        1992 Chevy Lumina Z34 5 Speed FOR SALE $1400 AS IS RUNS WELL

        Comment


        • #5
          So replaced the knock sensor... fixed the code... then had problem with the Crackshaft Position Sensor... replaced.. fixed that problem... Now when I hit the gas initially (i.e. iding then push gas to rev) it will hesitate and sort of stumble... that's the only symptom I've noticed though.

          Any thoughts?
          --Rob
          Currently attending Wyotech, Fremont, CA. Start Date: 1.24.05. Grad. Date: 4.21.06
          1992 Chevy Lumina Z34 5 Speed FOR SALE $1400 AS IS RUNS WELL

          Comment


          • #6
            So replaced the knock sensor... fixed the code... then had problem with the Crackshaft Position Sensor... replaced.. fixed that problem... Now when I hit the gas initially (i.e. iding then push gas to rev) it will hesitate and sort of stumble... that's the only symptom I've noticed though.

            Any thoughts?
            My guess is TPS.


            1992 Lumina Z34 | 3.4L 207ci DOHC 60º V6; Getrag 284 |
            1994 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP | 3.4L 207ci DOHC 60º V6; Hydra-Matic 4T60E |

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            • #7
              Well how would I test the TPS? I have a multimeter I just need to know how to test the various sensors and the wiring to make sure. I'm sure this is a fueling problem. *shrug*
              --Rob
              Currently attending Wyotech, Fremont, CA. Start Date: 1.24.05. Grad. Date: 4.21.06
              1992 Chevy Lumina Z34 5 Speed FOR SALE $1400 AS IS RUNS WELL

              Comment


              • #8
                Checking TPS Voltage

                Hello All

                You can check the TPS using a standadard DVOM.

                Back probe the sensor SIGNAL wire that goes to the ECM, watch the DC Voltage reading on the DVOM while moving the accelerater pedal or Throttle plate VERY, VERY, VERY slow and deliberate, the voltage reading should increase at a very uniform and steady rate and not drop out or lower untill you release the accelerator pedal or Thottle plate.

                You will be working in the 0-5 volts DC range so be VERY, VERY, VERY, VERY slow and deliberate in the movement of the Throttle plate or the Accelerator pedal during the test.

                A graphing DVOM or a Lab Scope would be the very best to use because it will give you an actual graph of the TPS voltage reading, with it you can actualy see any glitch's or voltage drop out in it's operation. Unfortunately, only Professional Driveability Mechanics usually have them for their use.

                You might bite the bullet and go to a garage and have the TPS voltage Graphed so that you will actually know for sure.

                If you want to buy your own they cost from $500.00 for a basic unit to $8000.00 for the Sun/Snap-On Modis unit. Gives you some idea why Mechanics get so much to fix the high tech cars of today.

                Hope this Helps

                John

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                • #9
                  RE: Checking TPS Voltage

                  We have Modis at my school so I'll just drag my car to school and hook it up. I had it on a Snap-On scan tool... wasn't Modis but not sure which one (teacher hooked it up and showed me the different data feeds) and that's how we determined the Knock Sensor was bad.

                  I'll check all this out today at school.
                  --Rob
                  Currently attending Wyotech, Fremont, CA. Start Date: 1.24.05. Grad. Date: 4.21.06
                  1992 Chevy Lumina Z34 5 Speed FOR SALE $1400 AS IS RUNS WELL

                  Comment

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