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Timing belt broke with less than 10K miles?!

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  • Timing belt broke with less than 10K miles?!

    Hello,

    When I swapped the engine into the fiero it had less than 1K miles on a fresh belt change. Well, last night it went out on the freeway and it has only been in my car for about 8-9K miles. I beat the piss out of my engine on a daily basis, but DAMN, how they hell does that work? Its completely shreded and gone. When the blet was replaced (at 85K miles) they didnt replace the idlers or the tensioner or the tensioner actuator. Would these parts not being changed cause the belt to go out that quickly? Whats going on here? Is it just me beating the piss out of it that caused it or what? I'd like to know if anyone has had a simular experiance with belts failing faster when you beat on a car. So anyone that beats the crap out of them, how long does your belt last?

    Thanks
    Jeff
    3.4 DOHC- 95 engine, custom intake manifold, custom cams, ported exhaust manifolds, Turbonetics T-62, Haltech standalone, 13.5 psi, air/h20 intercooler... yadda yadda...
    1987 Fiero, ST lowering springs, KYB's, Clutchnet dual diaphragm 6-puck, custom paint, 18's with falken fk452 225 front Nitto NT05 245 rear. Should be around 450whp...

  • #2
    That's the exact reason why I shelled out for a idler kit on mine. If the idlers lock up, you're toast. Also if the tensioner decides to stop tensioning, the belt can flop back and forth until it gets shredded and breaks as well.

    I'd say that a bad idler/tensioner could very well be the problem. Other than inertia, I don't think hammering on the motor will make a great difference, though the high RPM stuff may wear the belt out a little faster.

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    • #3
      When I replaced my timing belt I found out that my tensioner pulley was worn and causing the belt to run a little off track and against the lip on the edge of the idler pulleys. The belt was rubbing hard against those edges and starting to shread from the egde working inwards. It's definitely a good idea to replace the idler pullies, tensioner actuator and tensioner pulley with a new belt.

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      • #4
        yep, that is usually the reason for belt failure the tensioner/idler pullies failing, not the belt itself. it is best to replace them all when u do a belt change. if u don't at least re-oil the tensioner(there is a procedure involved in that) and maybe oil the idlers if u are strapped for cash.
        The Official Rotating Mass Nazi

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        • #5
          well i guess that it comforting to know that more than likely my abuse was not the cause of it failing so early. What are the best belts to buy? Anything better than the AC Delco?
          3.4 DOHC- 95 engine, custom intake manifold, custom cams, ported exhaust manifolds, Turbonetics T-62, Haltech standalone, 13.5 psi, air/h20 intercooler... yadda yadda...
          1987 Fiero, ST lowering springs, KYB's, Clutchnet dual diaphragm 6-puck, custom paint, 18's with falken fk452 225 front Nitto NT05 245 rear. Should be around 450whp...

          Comment

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