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TDC Re-Ring? Need Some Help...

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  • TDC Re-Ring? Need Some Help...

    Good afternoon. I have a question I asked on PFF, but didn't have much luck with. As I've mentioned in the head decking thread (in the perf. section), I've got my TDC motor apart for headwork. I'll post the n00b disclaimer here: this is the first time I've opened a motor with the intent of putting it back together. I'm mechanically inclinded (almost done with an engine swap into an 87 Fiero GT), but haven't tried to refresh a motor before, therefore I need all the help I can get.

    I figure it'd be smart to do a re-ring job while I have the heads off. Now or never sort of a deal. That'll leave me with rebuilt heads, new rod bearings, and new rings (and a brand new timing belt set and idlers). Aside from the main bearings which looked great, the rings are the only wear item I have yet to replace on my mileage unknown motor. Let me show you a picture of what my bores look like... There's no piston ridge at all. Nothing that can be felt or seen, other than a change of texture from shiny to rougher (crosshatch?). My compression was in the 150 PSI range (cept for a bad cylinder with leaking valves, and another with a messed up head gasket). I've heard that aroun 170-180 is optimal.

    I've gotten ahold of a Perfect Circle ringset, with a moly/steel topring. I figure this ought to be good stuff for a motor that's going to get a little pounding on, right? But my main question here - does anybody have any advice on how to perform a re-ring operation?

    I understand that you have to carefully deglaze the bore with a deglazing hone with a 45 degree crosshatch pattern, then you have to clean the everliving shit out of the bore, or the crud will eat your motor for lunch. Best part is that I'm trying to do this with the crank still installed for numerous reasons. If I don't think I can do it without so much as one spec of grit staying behind, I won't do it that way, though I really want to give it a shot. What do you lube the bore with? Do you just oil with motor oil before re-installing pistons? Assembly lube? Thanks for your time - you guys really know your shit!

  • #2
    RE: TDC Re-Ring? Need Some Help...

    First off always use assembly lube on any new, refab'ed, or refinished part. For this reason the block must be boiled clean to get as much rust and corrosion, or any other grit or grime off after a re-hone, also this cleans the water jacket, and for various other reasons that would make cleaning the block a good idea. Sandblast is an option.

    Very important to use assembly lube on every part that is moving against metal, not just motor oil. re-ringing pistons with rings that are cut to fit yields better performance. I am sure you know how to compress a ring to seat it in a cylinder.

    The pistons must face a certain way, remember that. removing the crank is not a big deal since you have to blocks stripped down. Might as well have it cleaned and checked for wear and cracks.

    By the looks of the cylinder wall you may want to bore and hone.
    I am back

    Mechanical/Service Technican

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    • #3
      Bore/Hone Needed Anyways...

      Well, it turns out that after going to town with a glaze breaker hone... that those dark areas are corrosion spots. I'm gonna have to bore and rehone after all. Thanks again for the info.

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