other way to set timing?

[Arkin]

hi people. I'm from Ukraine, 'mina z34 1993

I think I've read every word about timing of lq1
so the main idea is to set crank in TDC, fix both cam pairs in indentent position with special tools (flats up), release sprockets so they can rotate without cams, put the belt on, engage the tensioner, free the rear pair of cams, rotate the crank one time (360deg), tight all sprockets, free the front cams pair and you're done.

so this procedure is about setting front cams flats up and rear cams flats down the same time. (one turn of crank is a half turn of cams)

the problem I faced is I'm not capable to make the sprockets rotate without cams. I took the bolts out, I hit the sprockets hard, trying to pull them off a bit, but they don't move at all. I'm not sure how they are intended to pull off, manual is not help here.

Anyway I fixed cams flats up, I marked rear pair of sprockets, released the tool, rotated sprockets with cams by hand on 180deg, fixed them somehow (I don't remember how exactly), throwed the belt on and engaged the tensioner.

So what are your thoughts about it? I have no idling issues, I drove the car too but not that much (since I have other issues I will tell about in other topics soon). It seems like timing is OK for now. Might be useful for those who can't remove sprockets too, though I wish I could know how to do it.

[Schurkey]

the main idea is to set crank in TDC, fix both cam pairs in indentent position with special tools (flats up), release sprockets so they can rotate without cams, put the belt on, engage the tensioner, [TIGHTEN REAR SPROCKETS] free the rear pair of cams, rotate the crank one time (360deg), tight [FRONT] sprockets, free the front cams pair and you're done.

FIFY.

so this procedure is about setting front cams flats up and rear cams flats down the same time. (one turn of crank is a half turn of cams)

the problem I faced is I'm not capable to make the sprockets rotate without cams. I took the bolts out, I hit the sprockets hard, trying to pull them off a bit, but they don't move at all. I'm not sure how they are intended to pull off, manual is not help here.

What manual?

The GM service manual will show the use of several "special tools" they consider essential to the proper replacement of the timing belt. Those tools are available in the aftermarket, but most folks get them in the kit that was sold to the dealerships which included several other engine-related tools.

Anyway I fixed cams flats up, I marked rear pair of sprockets, released the tool, rotated sprockets with cams by hand on 180deg, fixed them somehow (I don't remember how exactly), throwed the belt on and engaged the tensioner.

So what are your thoughts about it? I have no idling issues, I drove the car too but not that much (since I have other issues I will tell about in other topics soon). It seems like timing is OK for now. Might be useful for those who can't remove sprockets too, though I wish I could know how to do it.

That should work, but won't be as precise as allowing the sprockets to rotate without moving the cams. Your cam timing is likely off a degree or three; and that won't prevent the engine from running or making power.

It's about the same as my first belt job, where I marked the old belt and each pulley with stripes of white paint, took the belt off, counted the teeth between each white stripe. Then I painted white stripes on the new belt at exactly the same tooth spacing. The new belt went on with each white stripe aligned with the original white stripe on the sprockets. Crude, but effective. The engine ran like that for perhaps thirty thousand miles, at which point the head gasket popped and I re-did the entire upper-end of the engine properly.

[Schurkey]

For the record, I think the sprocket-to-camshaft attaching method changed for the '94 model year. If not then, it was soon thereafter.

Up through the '93 model year, the sprockets used a stamped-sheetmetal "corrugated" spacer along with a big bolt and washer. '94 and later engines used a tapered male/female arrangement along with the big bolt to secure the cam to the sprocket.

The newer system will require the "special tool" to break the tapered-fit loose before the sprocket can turn independently of the camshaft.

The older system would need the bolt loosened a bit, and then I think (but I'm not sure) that the sprocket and cam will turn independently--although it's likely to be a high-friction joint needing a fair amount of force to cause the sprockets to rotate on the cam noses. I don't know if some oil sprayed into those corrugated spacers would help or hurt the system.

[SappySE107]

http://60degreev6.com/content.php/30...re-Walkthrough

Shows how to get the cam gears free on 91-93. The gears have to be pulled off first to make them spin freely.

[Arkin]

ok looks like this is it. sprockets can't be physically removed trying to hit them out, so that tool is a must have for sure. I think I'll get back to the timing procedure to make it as intended. thanx

[Arkin]

hello men
I wonder where can I get "hydraulic actuator" (timing belt tensioner) and a bracket for it? They're all gone.
Is it a must to fill it with oil? mine is without rubber boot so it can't hold oil at all, I installed it without filling.

[Schurkey]

hello men
I wonder where can I get "hydraulic actuator" (timing belt tensioner) and a bracket for it? They're all gone.
Is it a must to fill it with oil? mine is without rubber boot so it can't hold oil at all, I installed it without filling.

Seems to me that the rubber boot doesn't seal the oil in, it's more dust-shield than oil seal.

It was filled with oil to begin with, did you drain it? If you drained the old oil, yes, I'd pull it apart to re-fill with fresh oil. If you didn't drain it, I'd have a hard time convincing myself to yank it apart again.

Far as I know, those parts are Treasure Yard only, they've been discontinued for years.

[Arkin]

I didn't save a picture of mine actuator, but it looked bitten, and by the look of it I didn't even understood it was intended to be filled with oil. So it was dry. I couldn't do anything better than instal it back. The reason I took the engine out the very first time was totally ruined timing. The actuator bracket was damaged, it was welded before me. Actuator didn't look good too. Also there was a crack on the block cover around the bearing of intermediate shaft. I wonder what could be done to the engine to make such damage. I might be looking for a front block cover too but there is no chance I will find it

[robertisaar]

you can still acquire new actuators, but I couldn't say how many are actually left on shelves anymore.

24503860 for the actuator.