Timing Belt Question

[jmgtp]

I've heard the kent moore tool is still to thick to get the job done with the cam carrier still on. I can't verify since I don't have one. I made (well had the machine shop that my dad has access to at work make) a puller nearly identical to the kent moore one only not as thick. I was able to remove the rear cam pullies without pulling the carrier. I ended up welding a handle to it as well since when I honked down on the center bolt it liked to turn the whole cam on me.

[perfimage]

Ok everything is apart and ready to be put back together. The O-ring is addressed and the Ultra Copper Silicone is curing, hopefully fixing the leak.

Upon putting starting the reassembly, I noticed that I seem to be missing a bushing that goes between the actuator and actuator retainer plate (bottom image). I am quite positive I did not drop this when disassembled, and photos taken beforehand seem to show there was not one there when i started (top left image). Additionally, I can see wear marks on the actuator that match perfectly with the hole in the retainer (top right image).

Is there supposed to be a bushing there? If so, does anyone have a part number? I am gonna need it.

Thanks!!

[Juglenaut]

If it was me, and I am not saying to do so, but when in doubt replace the whole thing.

[perfimage]

The bushing is included with the tensioner actuator retainer plate. Oddly enough, one of my local dealers had one in stock! I am back in business and ready to put it all back together.

[bud36light]

That bushing went somewhere. Might want to look around b4 you crank it. Food for thought.

[perfimage]

I searched high and low...that bushing is no where to be found. With the wear marks and the fact that it was not there before disassembly, as shown by the photo, I am convinced it was either not installed at the factory and this is the original belt, or it was lost at the last belt change, which was NOT done by me.

At any rate, I am now facing a small problem, I have made the cam hold down tools as shown, but when the cam bolts are finally torqued, I find the cams have turned, bending the hold down tools. I have redone the rears twice now, and both times, the flats are not aligned once the sprockets are torqued. The second time I tried holding the sprocket with the sprocket holding tool, but that did not seem to help.

What part of this trick am I missing??

Also, what is the correct way to install the locking rings? Since they actually lock the sprockets to the shaft, what order are they installed? I have used the following procedure, which may be my cam slipping problem.

A. Insert smooth locking ring in cam sprocket.

B. Slide sprocket on camshaft, all the way to the normal installed position.

C. Slide the grooved locking ring between the shaft and smooth ring (exactly as they were removed) as far as it will go by hand.

D. Hand tighten the sprocket bolt/washer against the grooved ring, just till there is a little resistance when spinning the sprockets while allowing them to turn to set the belt tension before timing the cams.

E. Install the belt as instructed and begin the timing/alignment process at the rear camshafts.

F. Tighten the bolts, which pushes the grooved ring in place.

Thanks again.

[jmgtp]

The cam flat tools are NOT meant to withhold the force of the wrench being applied to torque the bolts down. Your'e supposed to use a cam pulley holder (fits in the notches of the cam pulley and has a handle for you to hold; also has an open center section for a socket to go through).

Your'e also doing things out of order. You have to time one bank at a time AND the lockrings go in AFTER the cams for that bank have been timed:

1) Put crank at TDC
2.) Use Cam Flat Tool to put the rear bank flats up
3.) Install Lockrings in rear bank only (use cam holder at this point)
4.) Rotate Crank 360*
5.) Put Cam Flat Tool on front bank
6.) Install Lockrings in front bank

note: doesn't matter if you start with rear or front bank, they just can't be done at the same time (crank must rotate 360* so camflats between banks are 180* opposite)

[Juglenaut]

Agree

[pocket-rocket]

I always leave the lockrings out untill I am ready to lock the gears down too. You don't have to do it this way, but that is just the way I do it.

[perfimage]

Timing Belt...

Done!

Thanks for all the help, advice, and guidance. Took the old girl out for a spin and what a difference!!

I utimately made a new set of cam flat tools out of 5/8 key stock and welded the 1/2 on top then a smaller piece that fit between the cams on the bottom side of the 5/8. Then I used this with the sprocket holder to hold the sprockets whiel torquing the bolts down and all was good.

Thanks again!!

RED

[dykz34]

Congrats!

[pocket-rocket]

Really, congrats! On doing one of the most hated things on this engine, and saving yourself about $500! lol