Rebuld Update

[napatiger]

So the car is running good.
Five oil changes in about 5 thousand miles.
Tranny Flush, Brake Flush ect.
New engine rebuld, new tranny, brakes, suspension, ect.

Lifter tick is now gone
Runs pretty strong, likes the RPM's from 3.5 - 6.2k.
Disk brakes stop on a dime, lowered suspension looks and feels good.

But,
1. AC compresor wont turn on, slow leak but was at pressure.
2. Regular air will only go to feet.
3. Temp sensor reads 210 degrees all the time from scanner.
4. Panel temp gauge works properly. must be two sensors.
5. I have to turn on AC switch to turn on fans, so they are pretty much on all the time.
6. Low hummmm from right rear tire area when brakes are first applied.
7. Aftermarket gauge reads rich at all times, not wide-band.

I do have gauges with Trans temp and oil pressure. I know when to turn on fans when oil pressure goes down from 50 psi at idle.
I know I need to fix Temp gauge cuz I pulled the hell out of the wires trying to get it to stretch, oh well.
I think that is realted to my AC compressor problem?
Air blower does not change direction ie floor to panel to defrost hmmmm.
I think the radiator fan problem is from the temp gauge as well.
But what the hell is the growl from the rear? I guess maybe the knuckle / hub from the junk yard has a bad bearing? Seems to be getting better, but it will also do it a little on left turns more.

All in all I really don't care too much at this point, I am just happy to be driving around after three years on the project.

Next on the list:
Fix annoying problems.
Magnaflows
Wet flow head w port job.
Headers.
Tires.
New paint/tint.


Maybe this Wednesday I will take it to Infinion if they are not racing.

[dohcfiend]

i will help some.

yes, the reason your fan(s) will not turn is is in fact related to your temp sensor. it is a 2 wire sensor screwed into your lower intake. if it reads 210 all the time your fans will never turn on.

next, if your blower only works out of the defrost and nothing else, it sounds like you forgot to hook up a vacuum line somewhere.

and yes there are 2 different temp sensors. the one for your guage is a 1 wire plug that screws into your cylinder head.

[napatiger]

thanks, i still need to fix that....

why does my engine always run rich?
I guess it runs rich, A/F gauge says so ,and smells like fuel.

[DEI37]

If the PCM is being told a certain temperature, and it's inaccurate, it will skew things pretty good, and throw the fueling off. Everything could be related, except for the tire hum.

[napatiger]

Shit, I better get on that.
After so much work, laughter, pain, and suffering...I just get unmotivated to do anything else.
I will pull the plenum and probably rewire to the bulkhead connector. I think it is my wiring and not the sensor it's self.
I wish I knew how to use a freaking voltometer!

[craftsman_454]

yeah sounds like when you were pulling on the temp sensor wiring you shorted the two wires togther somewhere. if the scanner is reading 210 at all times the pcm would signal the rad fan relay to turn the fans on all the time. while reading the scanner, disconnect the temp sensor, the reading should go to -40 degress celcius (whatever that is in frenhiet). If the pcm detects an open circuit or a fucked temp sensor it will default to a cold temp in order to keep the engine running. the engine will run rich but it will run. if it leaned out the mixture instead , there would be a big risk of detenation and engine damage.

the heater vent vacuum line is defitley broken or disconnected somewhere. as for the compressor not cycling could be a bunch of things, start by tapping the relay to see if its fucked. or swap it with another relay thats the same that you know works. i hope that helps. As for the voltmeter. its the best tool i have in my box learning to use one isn't hard just takes a little time.

[napatiger]

Thanks for the advice!

I took the Z to the track today and ran a 16.2 99 degrees F!