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Easy way...use a 3.4 DOHC windage tray, otherwise have fun doing it this way.
Parts you need:
7 - 3X00 Main cap bolts,
7 - 3X00 Windage tray nuts
1 - 3X00 Windage tray. (GM calls it a Crankshaft Oil Deflector)
Its a fairly simple mod, Easiest if the engine is Out of the car so you can have it on the stand and upside down to work on the bottom end.
Obviously, Remove the Oil Pan.
Remove the Oil Pump from the main cap.
Now the Windage Tray attaches to the engine via the Main cap bolts. on our GEN2 blocks, we just have normal main bolts,
The 3X00's use main caps with studs coming out of the top of the main cap bolt, These studs are how the Tray attaches to the block and is held in place with the nuts, There are only 7 bolts you need to remove out of the 8.
Remove all but the one from the Rear (rear exhaust manifold side) on the rear main cap. Once you look at the tray its obvious as to which one is left alone,
Install the new Main cap bolts from the 3X00 engine, Torque to Spec: 73 Lb. Ft. (99 N.m)
Now take your new Tray (make sure all the parts you are putting in are clean eh) and slap it into place like so:
If you try now and install your Oil pan, you will soon see there are a few areas of clearance issues:
the tray sticks out too far past the front block rail's and hits the pan here:
tray sticks out too far and hits the side of the pan:
tray covers the hole for the dipstick here and forces it to bend out of the way, this just doesn't work. you will have to clearance for the stick:
Take a marker and mark out the area's that need to be cut:
Remove the Tray, Take a Die Grinder and cutoff wheel, Or Jigsaw and metal blade or whatever you have to use to cut, and Trim the area's of issue.
Test fit the tray again, make sure everything fits around the pan, Make sure the dip stick can fit past the tray, ect.
Should now look like this:
Now that the pan can fit over the tray you will soon find you have one more clearance issue, the Pan hits the tray and wont fit down far enough to bolt up properly, there is a spot where the front of our pans where there just insn't enough clearance between the two,
This is where you need some Playdoh, or something that is maliable enough to squish down to show the area of issue,
I used some Dum-Dum, due to we had heaps at the shop, and I had no Playdoh in my box that day (yes i do keep playdoh in my tool box at work) (Dum-Dum is a type of sealing caulk that is used to seal up HVAC box's and all sorts of stuff in automotive uses)
with your material in place fit the pan back on, and push down so it fits back on the block rails. remove the pan, check the spot that the material squished at, This is where you need to use your "Additude Adjuster" (hammer)
Remove the tray, Using a hammer and anvil, hammer flat that raised bit on the tray,
Also take and hammer out some extra clearance on the pan,
Test fit again. and then as long as everything is good, Torque in your new windage tray: 18 Lb. Ft (25 N.m)
Reinstall your Oil Pump: 30 Lb. Ft. (41 N.m)
Reinstall your oil pan Nuts: 89 Lb. In. (10 N.m)
oil pan bolts: 89 Lb. In. (10 N.m)
rear oil pan bolts (x2) 18 Lb. Ft. (25 N.m)
One word of caution, the Stock Nuts from the Windage Tray are the special type much like an exhaust manifold nut, the theaded section is not completely round, its somewhat Oval shaped, The reason behind this is that these nuts do not back off and vibrate loose like conventional nuts that are completely round, This is why you might find on a set of exhaust manifolds from newer cars that have nuts, the nuts are impossible to remove or install by hand. this prevents them from just threading off on their own from vibration/heat. Make sure you use the Stock windage tray nuts or if you dont use some good Loc-Tite on the nuts to keep them in place.
Parts you need:
7 - 3X00 Main cap bolts,
7 - 3X00 Windage tray nuts
1 - 3X00 Windage tray. (GM calls it a Crankshaft Oil Deflector)
Its a fairly simple mod, Easiest if the engine is Out of the car so you can have it on the stand and upside down to work on the bottom end.
Obviously, Remove the Oil Pan.
Remove the Oil Pump from the main cap.
Now the Windage Tray attaches to the engine via the Main cap bolts. on our GEN2 blocks, we just have normal main bolts,
The 3X00's use main caps with studs coming out of the top of the main cap bolt, These studs are how the Tray attaches to the block and is held in place with the nuts, There are only 7 bolts you need to remove out of the 8.
Remove all but the one from the Rear (rear exhaust manifold side) on the rear main cap. Once you look at the tray its obvious as to which one is left alone,
Install the new Main cap bolts from the 3X00 engine, Torque to Spec: 73 Lb. Ft. (99 N.m)
Now take your new Tray (make sure all the parts you are putting in are clean eh) and slap it into place like so:
If you try now and install your Oil pan, you will soon see there are a few areas of clearance issues:
the tray sticks out too far past the front block rail's and hits the pan here:
tray sticks out too far and hits the side of the pan:
tray covers the hole for the dipstick here and forces it to bend out of the way, this just doesn't work. you will have to clearance for the stick:
Take a marker and mark out the area's that need to be cut:
Remove the Tray, Take a Die Grinder and cutoff wheel, Or Jigsaw and metal blade or whatever you have to use to cut, and Trim the area's of issue.
Test fit the tray again, make sure everything fits around the pan, Make sure the dip stick can fit past the tray, ect.
Should now look like this:
Now that the pan can fit over the tray you will soon find you have one more clearance issue, the Pan hits the tray and wont fit down far enough to bolt up properly, there is a spot where the front of our pans where there just insn't enough clearance between the two,
This is where you need some Playdoh, or something that is maliable enough to squish down to show the area of issue,
I used some Dum-Dum, due to we had heaps at the shop, and I had no Playdoh in my box that day (yes i do keep playdoh in my tool box at work) (Dum-Dum is a type of sealing caulk that is used to seal up HVAC box's and all sorts of stuff in automotive uses)
with your material in place fit the pan back on, and push down so it fits back on the block rails. remove the pan, check the spot that the material squished at, This is where you need to use your "Additude Adjuster" (hammer)
Remove the tray, Using a hammer and anvil, hammer flat that raised bit on the tray,
Also take and hammer out some extra clearance on the pan,
Test fit again. and then as long as everything is good, Torque in your new windage tray: 18 Lb. Ft (25 N.m)
Reinstall your Oil Pump: 30 Lb. Ft. (41 N.m)
Reinstall your oil pan Nuts: 89 Lb. In. (10 N.m)
oil pan bolts: 89 Lb. In. (10 N.m)
rear oil pan bolts (x2) 18 Lb. Ft. (25 N.m)
One word of caution, the Stock Nuts from the Windage Tray are the special type much like an exhaust manifold nut, the theaded section is not completely round, its somewhat Oval shaped, The reason behind this is that these nuts do not back off and vibrate loose like conventional nuts that are completely round, This is why you might find on a set of exhaust manifolds from newer cars that have nuts, the nuts are impossible to remove or install by hand. this prevents them from just threading off on their own from vibration/heat. Make sure you use the Stock windage tray nuts or if you dont use some good Loc-Tite on the nuts to keep them in place.