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First of all this reference guide is mainly intended to help inform people mainly about the things that have to be changed/adapted to make the swap work. The basic engine removal and installation steps will not be included in this guide but i will give tips that i think will make the process go smoother. Furthermore I have broken it down into sections for quick reference. The sections are not chronological meaning u can do the swap however you want and just refer to the appropiate section when you run into something.
*note: I did throw in some miscellanious tips in that will aid in the swap, read those first in chapter 11.
Chapter 1: Wiring
Section 1: TPS Wiring
NOTE: All wiring I did was soldered and shrink wrapped, I wouldn't suggest anything less for some of the more resistence sensitive sensors, so when i put a * next to something that means NO crimp connectors.
* First thing I recall is the Throttle Position Sensor or TPS wiring is too short to reach the sensor on the new Throttle Body or TB. It has to be lengthened by about 6-8 inches to be comfortable.
Section 2: Coilpack Wiring
Next thing I recall is the coilpacks have to be relocated and hence so do the wires that go to it. There are 3 wire plugs that go to the coil, is from the knock sensor. This is the easiest, all you have to do is pull the stock wiring out and re-route it up and over instead of down and under.
The other 2 connectors aren't that much harder, basically what you have to do is take apart the main harness to about the radiator cap and seperate the wiring to the 2 connectors.
Put back together the main harness without the before mentioned wires, loom the new wires and run them up and over to the coilpacks.
Section 3: O2 sensor Wiring
* I am not quite sure you will need this but i will throw it in anyway. My stock O2 connector was melted so I had to solder in a new 4 pin connector and the wiring ended up being 6 inches longer, i doubt however you will need to do this.
Section 4: Egr Valve Wiring
Same deal here, I had to lengthen the wires to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve or EGR Valve. I soldered these in too, but i suppose you could get away with crimps on these if you want to be lazy.
Section 5: IAC Wiring
* Lastly, I come to the Idle Air Control Motor or IAC. I am not quite sure you will need this either but i will throw it in too. My stock IAC connector was melted so I had to solder in a new 4 pin connector and the wiring ended up being about 4-6 inches longer, i doubt however you will need to do this.
Chapter 2: Brackets
Section 1: Coilpack Bracket
Now we will be using your 96 coilpack bracket for relocating your Coilpacks. The only problem is your power steering lines will interfere with the bracket, so the bracket will have to be modified for proper fitment. ATTN:You can try to use a set of 96 power steering lines, but you will have to rely on yourself if you run into problems.
Section 2: Throttle cable Bracket
Your throttle cable/cruise cable will not fit the 96 bracket. What i did is chopped up my 94 bracket and my 96 bracket and made a new bracket.
I mounted it to two places, one was on the TB and the other was on a threaded hole on the coolant line next to the exhaust crossover pipe.
Chapter 3: Vacuum Hose Configuration
Click here for the Vacuum Diagram
Section 1: PCV Valve Hose
No change here, just use the 96 configuration.
Section 2: Transmission Vacuum modulator
I used the port next to the Brake Booster on the tb neck.
Section 3: Brake Booster
No change here, just use the 96 configuration.
Section 4: Fuel Pressure Regulator
No change here, just use the 96 configuration.
Section 5: Valve Cover Connection
No change here, just use the 96 configuration.
Section 6: Charcoal Canister Purge
I changed to the 94 purge valve and done away with the 2 96 valves. On the Charcoal Cannister Purge Valve or CCP there are two connections one is a vacuum source located on the last remaining port on the tb and the other goes to the cannister connection under your antilock brake setup.
Section 7: Accessory Connection
This connection is used for cruise control and the vents inside the car. For this get a vacuum hose TEE and put it in-line with the CCP.
Chapter 4: Coolant Hose Configuration
*note: I am going to take it for granted that the directions are pretty good and I don't think any pics are needed for this chapter.
Section 1: Heater Core Coolant Feed Hose
There is a slight difference because the 96 has both connections on the driver's side and the pre-96 has one on the driver's side and one on the passenger's side. The coolant feed hose is located on the driver's side, take a heater hose and connect one end to the black metal coolant tube that comes around from the waterpump(the 96 version) and the other to the heater core connection on the firewall.
Section 2: Heater Core Coolant Return Hose
This hose runs along the passenger's side of the car and connects to the water pump, as you have observed there is no waterpump connection for this. The fix, however is easy. On your old engine take a large socket and remove and clean the port for this hose. On the 96 there is a block on that port, simply stick a 3/8 drive extension in it and take it off and clean the hole out a bit. Lastly, put some thread sealent on the port you removed on the old motor and install it into the 96 engine(It is a perfect fit).
Section 3: Misc. Information
As you know there is one extra connection left on the TB Neck. For this connection, just buy a 5/8 plug from any auto parts store. All the rest of the coolant connections are the same.
Chapter 5: Exhaust Connections
*note: I have ommitted the egr conversion from this chapter because i am going to devote a whole chapter to it.
Section 1: Exhaust Downpipe
Your Downpipe will bolt up to the 96 Exhaust Manifold no problem.
Section 2: A.I.R. Tubes
As you know they have no use on the pre 96 engines, so a bypass is in order. I hacked them off except for about 3 inches, Squeezed them flat with a vice and took them to a machine shop and had them welded shut. If you have a welder, you can do it yourself. I found out later you can buy screw in plugs from a hardware store.
Chapter 6: Sensors
Section 1: Sensor Compatability
On my swap, I changed the following sensors. Knock sensor, Fan Switch, EGR Valve, Intake Air Temp Sensor, MAF Sensor and Oil Sending Unit. But I am willing to wager all of them are the same except for the EGR VALVE and maybe the Oil Sending Unit.
Chapter 7: Fuel Lines
Section 1: Fuel Line Compatability
You will need the 2 metal 96 fuel lines and they will plug directly into the plastic ones.
Chapter 8: Throttle Cables
*note: this is based on the fact you have already made the bracket.
Section 1: Throttle Cable
Throttle cable will fit the 96 TB no problem.
Section 2: Cruise Cable
The Cruise cable will have to be modified to fit. For the cruise line, you need to chop the end off and put a ring terminal on then find a small clip to hold the ring terminal onto the throttle plate.
Chapter 9: Intake Tube
Section 1: Intake Tube compatability
On this if you have a 94 engine, just use the 96 intake tube that goes into the airbox and if you have a 91-93, I suggest fabbing your own out of aluminum tubing.
Chapter 10: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Conversion
Note: This is what my finished product looks like installed.
Section 1: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Tube Preparation
For the 96, cut it in half. For the 94, cut the bottom(manifold) piece off so it has approximately 8 inches of tube.
Section 2: Exhaust Manifold to Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Flange Tube Fabrication
This step is simple just weld the bottom half of the 96 EGR tube to the top half of the 94 tube, measurement on mine is 12 in.
Section 3: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Adapter Plate Fabrication
This step is relatively simple too. The flange that usually bolts to the plenum has a raised bottom, use that to your advantage. Take a piece od 1/4 in steel, mate it to that raised piece, and cut it out to the shape of the flange(a triangle shape), punch 2 holes in it to match the 2 bolt holes, next take your stock gasket draw an outline on your flange, take the bottom piece of the 94 tube and mark a hole to be punched inside the gasket outline you just drawn, lastly, punch the hole and you are done with the adapter plate.
Section 4: Adapter Plate to Intake Manifold Tube Fabrication
This is the hard part. first take the bottom half of the 94 EGR tube, There is a metal flange on it that allowed you to bolt it to the Exhaust Manifold, cut that off, now you have a tube with a little flange on it that kept the metal piece on you just cut off, take the tube and push it into the hole you punched into the adapter plate until the flange meets it and weld it to the adapter plate.
Next, there are 2 holes in your intake manifold. One you can see all the way through and one you can't. ignore the one you can see though, it is useless now. the piece that used to bolt to the hole you can see through will also bolt into the hole you can't, but it will take some subtle negotiation. Use your stock 96 egr gasket, stick that tube into the hole, you can use 1 larger bolt that will thread directly on the flange that is on the top half of the 96 egr tube, the other hole you will have to use a smaller bolt and put a nut on the other end and it is sealed down.
Next, you will have to mock and trim the tubes on both ends a few times until the desired length on both sides is reached, after that weld those last 2 tubes together and you are done.
Chapter 11: Miscellanious Tips
Section 1: Tips
*note: I have my a/c compressor bypassed, so i removed it with the engine but it is advisable to leave yours in the engine bay with your lines still connected when removing your engine.
To get the nut that holds the red wire on the alternator off, take a 1/4 in drive socket wrench, a 3 inch extension, use a shallow well 13mm socket and you should be able to get this little beast off. There is a seal on the tranny called a front main seal that the torque converter mates to, lubricate this seal before you reassemble the engine/tranny(if you had to seperate them) or you will be pulling it back out to replace this seal(I can vouch personally for this). While you have the engine out, replace the timing belt if needed. To get the engine out, I personally removed the Exhaust Crossover pipe, Power Steering Pump, Radiator, Plenum Assembly, Exhaust downpipe, cv joints, hood and disconnected all applicable hoses, wiring etc. When pulling the engine, pull it out on an angle so the passenger side is much higher than the driver's side to clear the antilock brake controller. Lastly, When removing the cv joints, pull both boots and when you are jacking the assy out enough, you just pop them out 1 at a time with a straight screwdriver be careful not to pop the ring off of the bearings.
*note: I did throw in some miscellanious tips in that will aid in the swap, read those first in chapter 11.
Chapter 1: Wiring
Section 1: TPS Wiring
NOTE: All wiring I did was soldered and shrink wrapped, I wouldn't suggest anything less for some of the more resistence sensitive sensors, so when i put a * next to something that means NO crimp connectors.
* First thing I recall is the Throttle Position Sensor or TPS wiring is too short to reach the sensor on the new Throttle Body or TB. It has to be lengthened by about 6-8 inches to be comfortable.
Section 2: Coilpack Wiring
Next thing I recall is the coilpacks have to be relocated and hence so do the wires that go to it. There are 3 wire plugs that go to the coil, is from the knock sensor. This is the easiest, all you have to do is pull the stock wiring out and re-route it up and over instead of down and under.
The other 2 connectors aren't that much harder, basically what you have to do is take apart the main harness to about the radiator cap and seperate the wiring to the 2 connectors. Put back together the main harness without the before mentioned wires, loom the new wires and run them up and over to the coilpacks.
Section 3: O2 sensor Wiring
* I am not quite sure you will need this but i will throw it in anyway. My stock O2 connector was melted so I had to solder in a new 4 pin connector and the wiring ended up being 6 inches longer, i doubt however you will need to do this.
Section 4: Egr Valve Wiring
Same deal here, I had to lengthen the wires to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve or EGR Valve. I soldered these in too, but i suppose you could get away with crimps on these if you want to be lazy.
Section 5: IAC Wiring
* Lastly, I come to the Idle Air Control Motor or IAC. I am not quite sure you will need this either but i will throw it in too. My stock IAC connector was melted so I had to solder in a new 4 pin connector and the wiring ended up being about 4-6 inches longer, i doubt however you will need to do this.
Chapter 2: Brackets
Section 1: Coilpack Bracket
Now we will be using your 96 coilpack bracket for relocating your Coilpacks. The only problem is your power steering lines will interfere with the bracket, so the bracket will have to be modified for proper fitment. ATTN:You can try to use a set of 96 power steering lines, but you will have to rely on yourself if you run into problems.
Section 2: Throttle cable Bracket
Your throttle cable/cruise cable will not fit the 96 bracket. What i did is chopped up my 94 bracket and my 96 bracket and made a new bracket.
I mounted it to two places, one was on the TB and the other was on a threaded hole on the coolant line next to the exhaust crossover pipe.
Chapter 3: Vacuum Hose Configuration
Click here for the Vacuum Diagram
Section 1: PCV Valve Hose
No change here, just use the 96 configuration.
Section 2: Transmission Vacuum modulator
I used the port next to the Brake Booster on the tb neck.
Section 3: Brake Booster
No change here, just use the 96 configuration.
Section 4: Fuel Pressure Regulator
No change here, just use the 96 configuration.
Section 5: Valve Cover Connection
No change here, just use the 96 configuration.
Section 6: Charcoal Canister Purge
I changed to the 94 purge valve and done away with the 2 96 valves. On the Charcoal Cannister Purge Valve or CCP there are two connections one is a vacuum source located on the last remaining port on the tb and the other goes to the cannister connection under your antilock brake setup.
Section 7: Accessory Connection
This connection is used for cruise control and the vents inside the car. For this get a vacuum hose TEE and put it in-line with the CCP.
Chapter 4: Coolant Hose Configuration
*note: I am going to take it for granted that the directions are pretty good and I don't think any pics are needed for this chapter.
Section 1: Heater Core Coolant Feed Hose
There is a slight difference because the 96 has both connections on the driver's side and the pre-96 has one on the driver's side and one on the passenger's side. The coolant feed hose is located on the driver's side, take a heater hose and connect one end to the black metal coolant tube that comes around from the waterpump(the 96 version) and the other to the heater core connection on the firewall.
Section 2: Heater Core Coolant Return Hose
This hose runs along the passenger's side of the car and connects to the water pump, as you have observed there is no waterpump connection for this. The fix, however is easy. On your old engine take a large socket and remove and clean the port for this hose. On the 96 there is a block on that port, simply stick a 3/8 drive extension in it and take it off and clean the hole out a bit. Lastly, put some thread sealent on the port you removed on the old motor and install it into the 96 engine(It is a perfect fit).
Section 3: Misc. Information
As you know there is one extra connection left on the TB Neck. For this connection, just buy a 5/8 plug from any auto parts store. All the rest of the coolant connections are the same.
Chapter 5: Exhaust Connections
*note: I have ommitted the egr conversion from this chapter because i am going to devote a whole chapter to it.
Section 1: Exhaust Downpipe
Your Downpipe will bolt up to the 96 Exhaust Manifold no problem.
Section 2: A.I.R. Tubes
As you know they have no use on the pre 96 engines, so a bypass is in order. I hacked them off except for about 3 inches, Squeezed them flat with a vice and took them to a machine shop and had them welded shut. If you have a welder, you can do it yourself. I found out later you can buy screw in plugs from a hardware store.
Chapter 6: Sensors
Section 1: Sensor Compatability
On my swap, I changed the following sensors. Knock sensor, Fan Switch, EGR Valve, Intake Air Temp Sensor, MAF Sensor and Oil Sending Unit. But I am willing to wager all of them are the same except for the EGR VALVE and maybe the Oil Sending Unit.
Chapter 7: Fuel Lines
Section 1: Fuel Line Compatability
You will need the 2 metal 96 fuel lines and they will plug directly into the plastic ones.
Chapter 8: Throttle Cables
*note: this is based on the fact you have already made the bracket.
Section 1: Throttle Cable
Throttle cable will fit the 96 TB no problem.
Section 2: Cruise Cable
The Cruise cable will have to be modified to fit. For the cruise line, you need to chop the end off and put a ring terminal on then find a small clip to hold the ring terminal onto the throttle plate.
Chapter 9: Intake Tube
Section 1: Intake Tube compatability
On this if you have a 94 engine, just use the 96 intake tube that goes into the airbox and if you have a 91-93, I suggest fabbing your own out of aluminum tubing.
Chapter 10: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Conversion
Note: This is what my finished product looks like installed.
Section 1: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Tube Preparation
For the 96, cut it in half. For the 94, cut the bottom(manifold) piece off so it has approximately 8 inches of tube.
Section 2: Exhaust Manifold to Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Flange Tube Fabrication
This step is simple just weld the bottom half of the 96 EGR tube to the top half of the 94 tube, measurement on mine is 12 in.
Section 3: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Adapter Plate Fabrication
This step is relatively simple too. The flange that usually bolts to the plenum has a raised bottom, use that to your advantage. Take a piece od 1/4 in steel, mate it to that raised piece, and cut it out to the shape of the flange(a triangle shape), punch 2 holes in it to match the 2 bolt holes, next take your stock gasket draw an outline on your flange, take the bottom piece of the 94 tube and mark a hole to be punched inside the gasket outline you just drawn, lastly, punch the hole and you are done with the adapter plate.
Section 4: Adapter Plate to Intake Manifold Tube Fabrication
This is the hard part. first take the bottom half of the 94 EGR tube, There is a metal flange on it that allowed you to bolt it to the Exhaust Manifold, cut that off, now you have a tube with a little flange on it that kept the metal piece on you just cut off, take the tube and push it into the hole you punched into the adapter plate until the flange meets it and weld it to the adapter plate.
Next, there are 2 holes in your intake manifold. One you can see all the way through and one you can't. ignore the one you can see though, it is useless now. the piece that used to bolt to the hole you can see through will also bolt into the hole you can't, but it will take some subtle negotiation. Use your stock 96 egr gasket, stick that tube into the hole, you can use 1 larger bolt that will thread directly on the flange that is on the top half of the 96 egr tube, the other hole you will have to use a smaller bolt and put a nut on the other end and it is sealed down.
Next, you will have to mock and trim the tubes on both ends a few times until the desired length on both sides is reached, after that weld those last 2 tubes together and you are done.
Chapter 11: Miscellanious Tips
Section 1: Tips
*note: I have my a/c compressor bypassed, so i removed it with the engine but it is advisable to leave yours in the engine bay with your lines still connected when removing your engine.
To get the nut that holds the red wire on the alternator off, take a 1/4 in drive socket wrench, a 3 inch extension, use a shallow well 13mm socket and you should be able to get this little beast off. There is a seal on the tranny called a front main seal that the torque converter mates to, lubricate this seal before you reassemble the engine/tranny(if you had to seperate them) or you will be pulling it back out to replace this seal(I can vouch personally for this). While you have the engine out, replace the timing belt if needed. To get the engine out, I personally removed the Exhaust Crossover pipe, Power Steering Pump, Radiator, Plenum Assembly, Exhaust downpipe, cv joints, hood and disconnected all applicable hoses, wiring etc. When pulling the engine, pull it out on an angle so the passenger side is much higher than the driver's side to clear the antilock brake controller. Lastly, When removing the cv joints, pull both boots and when you are jacking the assy out enough, you just pop them out 1 at a time with a straight screwdriver be careful not to pop the ring off of the bearings.