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This is a how-to on installing a heated oxygen sensor into your car. The benefit of a heated oxygen sensor is that your car will go into closed loop much quicker, which means the ECM is adjusting your fuel based off of the sensor and not maps. By doing this your car will run better quicker on cold start-ups. It will also improved fuel consumption during start up, as well as reduce emissions.
First, you will need to get a 4-wire heated O2 sensor with the pig-tail.
Here is a diagram of the plug end of the sensor. The pin letter's are also marked on the pig-tail. Not all sensor ends will have the same wire color's, but the pin letter should corespond with the function.
First you want to swap out your stock single-wire O2 for the heated one. Luckily I have an O2 bung in my down pipe, because there is no way the larger heated O2 body will clear the tie-rod in the stock location.
Next you want to remove the stock single-wire O2 sensor plug end.
Then hook Pin B (purple) to the signal wire.
Next, you will need to find power that is only 12V when the engine is running. There is a wire coming out of the back of the altenator that does just that. That wire is brown with a white stripe. I spliced in to there with the Pin D (brown). I also used an in-line fuse holder with a 5A fuse.
Next, hook the Pin A (tan) and Pin C (black) wires together, and run them both to ground. I mounted mine to one of the left over holes from the stock MAP sensor location.
Then I zip-tied the connector to one of the power-steering lines to keep it out of the way from getting tangled.
And thats it. This has drastically cut down my warm up time. Today is was 0C (32F) and it took under 2 minutes for my car to enter closed loop, where as before it would take well over 5 minutes in warmer weather.
First, you will need to get a 4-wire heated O2 sensor with the pig-tail.
Here is a diagram of the plug end of the sensor. The pin letter's are also marked on the pig-tail. Not all sensor ends will have the same wire color's, but the pin letter should corespond with the function.
First you want to swap out your stock single-wire O2 for the heated one. Luckily I have an O2 bung in my down pipe, because there is no way the larger heated O2 body will clear the tie-rod in the stock location.
Next you want to remove the stock single-wire O2 sensor plug end.
Then hook Pin B (purple) to the signal wire.
Next, you will need to find power that is only 12V when the engine is running. There is a wire coming out of the back of the altenator that does just that. That wire is brown with a white stripe. I spliced in to there with the Pin D (brown). I also used an in-line fuse holder with a 5A fuse.
Next, hook the Pin A (tan) and Pin C (black) wires together, and run them both to ground. I mounted mine to one of the left over holes from the stock MAP sensor location.
Then I zip-tied the connector to one of the power-steering lines to keep it out of the way from getting tangled.
And thats it. This has drastically cut down my warm up time. Today is was 0C (32F) and it took under 2 minutes for my car to enter closed loop, where as before it would take well over 5 minutes in warmer weather.
