dog bone idea, "need input."

[95SleeperAcheiva]

My acheiva's dog bone is located just under the crank pulley and the 2 ends are 90 degs differant from one another. I was considering using one from FFP, then I got an idea, yes I was on the crapper when it hit me.

How does 2 HD rod ends with a chrome moly tube sound? It would be solid. I'm thinking it would work out OK, using grade 10 hardware, hardened rod ends, considereing my dog bone mounts direct to the sub-frame and a pretty sturdy looking mount on the block rather than the radiator support.

Anybody tried this? I apriciate any input.

[SappySE107]

Pics? That would help me out:P

[Fedaykin]

I think it would cost you a lot more... what kind of benefit do you see this giving you from a functional/performance perspective? If negligible I wouldn't do it.

[95SleeperAcheiva]

Working on pics.

a solid mount has zero give, more torque transfer.

as far as cost.....

try $8 a rod end and $2 a bolt. Plus the threaded sleeve @ $11.
totals,
$29 for a solid dog bone made from rod ends.
$71 FFP.
$86 Stock.

[EspanolaGuitarista]

Good f**king idea...

...I would have never thought of that. I'll try it to and we can compare. Now we just need to make a solid bracket for the top. Talk about vibration, probably make your eyes rattle. Solid chunk of aluminum might work. Or a hollow piece of square tube.

[prophiseer]

IMO, putting in a solid mount anywhere on an N-body might cause problems, especially depending on how much power your motor is throwing out. I can speak from experience when I say it doesn't take too much effort to bend part of the body or cradle on any N-body.

Just something to think about.

[Fedaykin]

Yeah, i'd like to see how 'heavy duty' the rod ends are in a pic. but.. hey try it and let everyone know!

[patgizz]

$8 rod end sounds scary....

my QA1 3/4" deals for my 4 link were $59 each

[EspanolaGuitarista]

You think our motors could put out enough torque to bend the frame? I can generate 300 ft/lbs of torque with 3 foot breaker bar easy. Unless these car are complete s**t I wouldn't think so, but I will yield to experience. I have a Beretta. So maybe leave the top mount in and just solidly mount the lower? Will the solid mount help with the brake steer?

[Fedaykin]

You think our motors could put out enough torque to bend the frame? I can generate 300 ft/lbs of torque with 3 foot breaker bar easy.

sure, but how many horsepower do you have!

[prophiseer]

You think our motors could put out enough torque to bend the frame? I can generate 300 ft/lbs of torque with 3 foot breaker bar easy. Unless these car are complete s**t I wouldn't think so, but I will yield to experience. I have a Beretta. So maybe leave the top mount in and just solidly mount the lower? Will the solid mount help with the brake steer?

You don't have to worry about damaging the cradle as much as the body, especially anywhere near the strut towers; just a good solid whack with a 32 oz. hammer will leave a decent size dent in 'em.

But anyways, the top motor mount should be alright on a Beretta, it's the kind of "adjustable" mount right? The kind where you can slide it forward and backward in it's body mount? All the way forward will also help reduce torque steer, but if you can stiffen up the tranny mount, it'll really help reduce it some more.

[grandprixgtp_91]

well its not going to break right away, when i made custom mounts in my grand am for the 5 speed, about 2 months later i could see were the metal was ripping apart from all the motor shake over time, so i had to beef it up alot to take it.

Jake

[95SleeperAcheiva]

I'm buying the rod ends from a bearing shop, not a speed shop. I found out the $8 hardened ends are the same $20 ends at the speed shop. Not to get into a pissing contest but, torque is what matters, not HP.

[EspanolaGuitarista]

Torque matters on the street, I usaully get beat at the top because of more horsepower. The upper mount is a solid piece of rubber on the passenger side that mounts to a the engine via a plate.