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**napatiger** · 07-21-2006, 10:41 PM

napa, i just rebuilt, but a LQ1

**tejohnson** · 07-22-2006, 02:27 AM

Did your pistons not come with an info sheet? Arrow forward seems straight forward

Can you explain what you mean by turning the oil pump by "hand"? With a shaft? [EDIT: dumb question deleted

It was 2:30 in the morning...]

Rings, it is hard to say... Where did you get them? Are they gapped already?

As for rockers, the spring will compress down when you tighten down the rockers. The pushrods will seat, and the valve will open. But, I'm used to a 3400 with self aligning rockers... Forget what year the 3.1 got those... Perhaps someone with more experience with this generation can chime in... (valve lash setting if not the self aligning rockers, etc.)

**Ortie666** · 07-22-2006, 06:28 AM

K bud, put the arows toward the timing chane, u got that rite, hope ur puting the piston rods(pistons) back into the same hole( keeps engine in balence) as for the rings its hard to say, my keith black pistons said to over gap them so it wouldent crack a piston, but if you push a ring into the cylender with a piston take a feeler gauge and check the gap, i think .020 is around what u want, as for the oil pump, take it apart... its not too hard, then you can clean inside and everything, and see why it dosent spin freely, next your going to put the rockers on pretty sloppy prolly just till the nut gits stiff, juss so everything can get a running start on startup, then lash them wile running, with valve covers off.... you want to lossten till they start ticking, then tighten them down 1/2 to 1/4 turn depends on ur cam and stuff, 1/4 if u got a bigger cam, and 1/2 if stock... also put asembly lube on the lifters, but DO NOT, DO NOT soak lifters in oil if u have a new cam.. you want the lifters totaly blead down on startup so the cam can get a running start..(Dont forget to prime oil pump with a drill)

**95SleeperAcheiva** · 07-22-2006, 11:54 AM

well your either real smart and brave or dumb as a brick. There is so much to explain to check before assembly. GET HELP. Don't do it alone. the books don't telll you everything to check. 66 is on the right track but seriously get someone with experience to go over it.

**NeonKnight** · 07-22-2006, 03:40 PM

My grandfather used to be a GM service advisor... back in the day! haha

he told me to seek help also... the problem is i dont have the help, all my family and shit kinda ditched me... so i have no one to really help.

I dont have the cash to pay the machine shop to assemble it and what not heh.

The engine is a complete long block, was sitting in the rain so it got dismantled and cleaned up. cylinders all honed and what not, cam is brand new, pistons new, rings new everything new. the only the block needed was lifters, head bolts, and gaskets.

Everything is stock size, stock everything. i am not going to modify it because i live in the great California... with all of our gay smog laws... and my car is now reg'd for NON OP due to me having to get it smogged... but i couldnt because of a bad engine lol

I just needed to make sure i could get all the pistons in because i rented the tool from autozone... and kinda need to take it back in a few days.

So what i am going to do is finish oiling the cylinders and putting my pistons in... since thats the easy thing. after that i will try to either get my grandfather... or buddy's dad whos a mechanic... i just hate asking people for help with this kinda stuff, like my buddies dad comes home tired and sore... sucks being a mechanic sometimes heh.

Thanks for all the help, if ya got anything else to say let me hear. This information has already helped

**tractorman** · 07-22-2006, 05:45 PM

You should be able to spin that oil pump. Is it new or a used one? You should be putting a new one in... or at a bare minimum take the old one apart, clean and inspect it, and be damned sure it's good before you install it. If it's new, I'd stick an allen wrench in the drive, dump a little oil in the pump and try to turn it- it might just need to be oiled up. If you can't turn it, then don't install it... it'll fuk up your engine. Either get a new one or at least take it apart and see what's going on.

**geoffinbc** · 07-22-2006, 06:03 PM

You dont need to adjust your rockers. In 93 it was a net lash system. You will see a machined shoulder on the top of every stud. Just tighten the nut and it will register on the shoulder and your lash is set.

**Ortie666** · 07-22-2006, 07:24 PM

ya, i guess you could get help.. i supose this sounds all easy to me kuss i worked in a performance engine building machine shop, but ya, goto a local engine building shop and ask questions.. make sure u plastigauge too!! dont want the new bearings laying in the pan..

**Green1995Camarov6** · 07-28-2006, 06:56 PM

Use STP oil treatment on your bearings,camshaft and lifters when you go back together with it. I use this assembling Cat,Cummins, and Detroit engines at work. Its really thick, and sticky.

**Green1995Camarov6** · 07-28-2006, 06:57 PM

Also, put some on a rag, and run it up and down your cylinders. Keeps them from rusting, and prevents the rings from gauling the cylinders on start up

**Ortie666** · 08-04-2006, 03:12 PM

Originally posted by Green1995Camarov6

Also, put some on a rag, and run it up and down your cylinders. Keeps them from rusting, and prevents the rings from gauling the cylinders on start up

thats not always good, straight 30 will does the trick, that stuff makes it too viscos for the pistons to move on a gas engine... but b4 the straight 30 use about 10 clean paper towls full of ATF, untill there is no more swarf in the cylenders

**n0rt0npr0** · 08-17-2006, 01:58 AM

yup, atf to prevent the rust and to clean the swarf off. some str8 30 if you will be longer than two weeks in 60% or more humidity.

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How to correctly install pistons... Help!

How to correctly install pistons... Help!

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